Jump to content

subwoffer box

2002 crew cab

Recommended Posts

  • 2 years later...
RedTaIL Enthusiast

RedTaIL

Posted
Posted

anyone know why this link is not working. I am trying to do my own research and not bother others but between the links and the pics not working its pretty frushtrating

RedTaIL Enthusiast

RedTaIL

Posted
Posted
You may want to check out this thread for some more info.  I don't think you can cram two 12's behind the seat.  Under the seat I doubt it would be a problem though.

 

Crew Cab Thread

CREW CAB THREAD LINK that doesn't work??? :jester:

kevperro Enthusiast

kevperro

Posted
Posted

Have one made. Most installers charge very little to do a simple carpet covered 3/4" MDF braced cabinet. If I were you though I'd use just one 12" rather than two. If you go with a driver with plenty of excursion you will get far more output than you really need for a truck cab. You get tons of cabin gain as the space your trying to fill decreases and there just isn't any sane reason you need two 12" drivers unless you are trying to compete in a SPL contest.

 

A single high excursion 12" would only require about a 1 cu. ft cabinet greatly decreasing the size of the enclosure needed. Personally... I'd only use a single 10" but hey... I'm not a bass head.

 

http://www.adireaudio.com/

OmniGLH Enthusiast

OmniGLH

Posted
Posted

Is there enough depth behind the back seat to even fit a 10", let alone a 12?

 

I've got a JL 6WO in a small JL box, and it BARELY fits behind the seat. I don't think you can fit anything deeper back there... as it is, the little 6" is up against the back of the seat, and the back wall of the cab.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 626 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do.    I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road.    Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?     
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.  
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • TrueBlue
      Brake Pad Warning Message

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      Heated steering wheel

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...