Jump to content

Mtx Re Q5 Install Question

jestor

By jestor
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

jestor Enthusiast

jestor

Posted
Posted

ok so i bought me a mtx re-q5, and im having a little trouble understanding how to hook this up. this is going into my 2009 silverado crew cab(non bose) and i noticed the req5 has alot of wires, what would be the best way to install this seeing as i only have 4 speakers and the two tweeters which i think are wired into the front speakers. here is a link to the install instruction, im just not really sure how to go about installing this into my truck. http://www.reqsound.com/manual/re-Q5_Install_sheet.pdf

 

thanks in advance

damion Enthusiast

damion

Posted
Posted
ok so i bought me a mtx re-q5, and im having a little trouble understanding how to hook this up. this is going into my 2009 silverado crew cab(non bose) and i noticed the req5 has alot of wires, what would be the best way to install this seeing as i only have 4 speakers and the two tweeters which i think are wired into the front speakers. here is a link to the install instruction, im just not really sure how to go about installing this into my truck. http://www.reqsound.com/manual/re-Q5_Install_sheet.pdf

 

thanks in advance

 

What is it that is hanging you up? Let me know and I can walk you through the install....

jestor Enthusiast

jestor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im confused because each channel has four wires for input, and not sure which ones to use, when i only have two wire pre channel or speaker. and also if i hook up the left speaker input will i have an amplified signal when using an amp to run front speakers??

damion Enthusiast

damion

Posted
Posted

Ok, heres what you want to do for your speakers:

 

Green/black -, Green + = left rear

White/red -, White + = left front

Purple/black -, Purple + = right rear

Grey/black -, Grey + = right front

Brown/black -, Brown + = Sub input.......... ****Use if you are adding a sub****...

 

There are two of everything incase the player in the vehicle has specific outputs for mid/ tweeter. our trucks dont. The tweeter is just paralell with the mid with a cap on it.

 

Basically just connect the wires as ive labeled them, then cap or tape off the remaining unused wires. The power ( constant and keyed ) and ground will also have to be hooked up.

 

If you are adding an amp to all four speakers then just tap into fr, fl, rr, rl. if you are adding a sub and amping all speakers, tap into one of the rear speakers with the brown wires ( unless you have bose system, then just use factory sub wires )

 

If youre just adding a sub, then only hook up the brown wires.

 

Hope this helps, if you have any questions just let me know.

jestor Enthusiast

jestor

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cool thanks, yeah forgot to mention my truck dosen't have bose. my plan is to add just an amp and subs for now, but i want to hook up all wires to be able to add another amp and replace all speakers.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL.    And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it. 
    • mrbflat
      Clunk when coming to a stop... driveshaft/slip yoke? Mechanic couldn't recreate it

      By mrbflat · Posted

      Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab.  I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush).  A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue.  Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive.  He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft.  I am not sure what else I can do.  Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?
    • Black02Silverado
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy.  No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot.  Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.
    • Black02Silverado
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.
    • Black02Silverado
      HighMileage oils or stay with Dexos 1 ?

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...