Vibration At 60

[pwsigmund]

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

My 2001 Silverado 2WD 1500 Pickup has developed a very noticeable road vibration. Not a noise, but rather you feel it like a "wobble". It only occurs between 55 and 65. No sign whatsoever before that, and subsides at higher speed. Nothing new or been recently been changed on the vehicle. Jacked up the front end and both wheels feel solid. Don't really feel it in the steering wheel, but sure notice it in the ride. Guess I could have all the wheels balanced, but unless one of the weights suddenly dropped off, I don't know why things suddenly could have changed.

 

Any thoughts on what things it could be, and how I could begin to eliminate options?

 

Thanks

[Nytemare]

Your U-joints are gone.

[minibike132]

Your U-joints are gone.

 

 

+1

[Zembonez]

FIRST thing to have checked is your tires, wheels, and balance. If you skip that, you might be chasing a mechanical problem that isn't there. If those check out, I'd start looking at other mechanical items.

[Nytemare]

FIRST thing to have checked is your tires, wheels, and balance. If you skip that, you might be chasing a mechanical problem that isn't there. If those check out, I'd start looking at other mechanical items.

I was thinking that at first but he says it goes away above 60 and under 55. Wheel balance would get worse as speed increased, and would be felt in the steering wheel.

 

Well that's my thoughts and experiences anyway...no harm in checking them though.

[minibike132]

FIRST thing to have checked is your tires, wheels, and balance. If you skip that, you might be chasing a mechanical problem that isn't there. If those check out, I'd start looking at other mechanical items.

 

 

It only occurs between 55 and 65. No sign whatsoever before that, and subsides at higher speed.

 

Tires and wheel balancing does not go away at higher speeds, it gets worse. U-joints are load sensitive so when the vibration is happenig throw it in neutral and see if it changes, if not go after tires, if it does it is something under load like the u-joints.

 

A vibration that is felt in the drive train between 45-65 is a tell tale sign of u-joints and they are easier to check then wheel balance, no machine needed. Climb under and check for looseness at the joints, if loose they are bad if not move on to binding checks. Block the wheels, use an 11mm wrench to disconnect the rear u-joint from the pinion, pop it out with a pry bar and move it back and forth feeling for some binding. If you don't feel any pull the shaft out and check the front for binding, the angle on the rear is greater so it usually goes first.

[minibike132]

But you know what, get your tires balanced too. I never used to sell balances but the shop I am at now includes it with a rotation and it is surprising how many wheels are WAY out of balance. Balancing has gone into my personal vehcile maintenance lately (every rotate for me but I do mine for free so choose your own interval).

[Zembonez]

An out of balance tire bounce can often come and go depending on the speed. The out of balance condition causes harmonics that result in vibration at certain rpms. These come and go.

 

It is entirely possible.

 

All I am saying is that chasing any vibration needs to start with proper tire balance.

[Nytemare]

An out of balance tire bounce can often come and go depending on the speed. The out of balance condition causes harmonics that result in vibration at certain rpms. These come and go.

 

It is entirely possible.

 

All I am saying is that chasing any vibration needs to start with proper tire balance.

Yup...not a bad plan man...no use trying to fix the toaster if its just not plugged in right.

[pwsigmund]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your help. I'll check the U joints and have the tire balanced. There is no sign of any vibration till you hit 55 or 60 on the highway.

 

If I do have U joint problems, let me ask you this. I have a hydraulic press, and have replaced U joints on older vehicles and tractors. However I've read on these newer vehicles there's now more to it and you have to remove some sort of plastic rings first. Some talk of melting them with a torch. Can you tell me what's involved with that?

 

Thanks again.

[gmtech4]

if you see a little holes in the shaft end where the caps go ,they have plastic retainers ,heat the 4 caps up wearing safety glasses ,the plastic melts and expands and sometimes spits out those formentioned holes,then change the u-joints as normal,the new ones will have inside clips for your arf ton,

 

pick the plastic out of its groove with a pick if ya like ,

 

have fun out there

[tramz]

WOW, I love this site. Everyone has their opinion and no one is wrong.

[Zembonez]

WOW, I love this site. Everyone has their opinion and no one is wrong.

It's because we are all right.

[minibike132]

if you see a little holes in the shaft end where the caps go ,they have plastic retainers ,heat the 4 caps up wearing safety glasses ,the plastic melts and expands and sometimes spits out those formentioned holes,then change the u-joints as normal,the new ones will have inside clips for your arf ton,

 

pick the plastic out of its groove with a pick if ya like ,

 

have fun out there

 

If you don't have a torch but you do have a press I just use a press to get them out, use a wire brush in a drill to clean up the bores and smack the new ones in with a hammer. If you don't have a wire brush that will fit your drill and the bores, a piece of emory cloth wadded up and stuffed in a cotter pin does a nice job too.

 

DO NOT press ear to ear, you can bend the ears in. Mark the locations of everything before removing the shaft from the vehicle. Once out and in the presss support the exposed sections of the joint and get a socket or something to go on the ear but larger then the joint cap. This is going to use the joint to push the joint itself upward through the bore, repeat the other side. Clean out the ears and push the new ones in, install clips and away you go.