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By asilverblazer · Posted
Some simple grounds from battery to engine, battery to frame, etc. using jumper cables might yield some clues. Battery condition? Alternator may have internally shorted - pull the power cable off the back if you suspect it. -
I'd have a hard time selling it like this, I think. The CEL is very occasional but I can imagine someone buying this thinking it's going to get them from A to B and then it gives them trouble a few days later. I still need to fix the starter...that's just embarrassing. The front oil weep/leak...well, it's an old vehicle. I'd fix that if it didn't literally involve dropping the front axle or unmounting the engine and lifting it up several inches for access. It can leak for now. -
Updating. My Avalanche went to my grandson because I got a smoking deal on a Ridgeline. The Genesis is over 150K and the Odyssey is going over 170K. Both needing nothing but maintenance so far. Don’t tell anyone I wouldn’t mind if the Odyssey will fail. I want a newer one. I’m stupid that way. I’m performance oriented. The odyssey is surprising. The Genesis is quick. The Ridgeline not so much with a 5 speed automatic and AWD. With heavy duty maintenance coming up I may move it along. Usually I let one of the kids have them. The fuel mileage and maintenance coming up. I’ll sell or trade it unless I just do the maintenance. I always had a Chevy of some kind in my yard. I’m not feeling it with the Ridgeline. My brother in law has a Yukon with a 4.8 and no cylinder deactivation. It’s a pretty clean high mileage example. He living in Oklahoma now needs an AWD for emergency’s. His driveway is very sloped. I may suggest a swap. I’m chewing on it while looking around. -
That could very well have easily been from transport damage. You'd lose your $hit if you see how some of these cars come off the carrier needing work. -
By BrianFerguson · Posted
Interesting perspective, especially looking back over that many years. My approach is pretty similar now—I'd rather keep a reliable vehicle longer than chase a new one every few years. Depreciation hits hardest at the beginning, so if the vehicle is dependable and still meets your needs, it's usually the cheaper option. I also try to avoid rolling negative equity into the next loan. It can make upgrading feel easier in the short term, but it often means paying for a vehicle you no longer own. If financing makes sense because of a genuinely low interest rate, that's one thing, but otherwise I'd rather put money toward maintenance and drive the current vehicle longer. It tends to work out better financially over time.
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