Jump to content

Key Fob?


Recommended Posts

Posted

A couple of weeks ago my key fob started acting weird. what i mean by weird is it wont unlock when i press the unlock button... i thought is was the battery so i changed it. nope, not the problem. i would try my other key fob that i got when i bought my truck but well how do i put this.... it was ran over by a fire truck.... i work for a volunteer FD and it fell out of my pocket in the station and the truck ran it over and i didn't notice it till we got back... any tips or ideas what it could be???

 

I have a 2003 sierra 1500... if that helps...

Posted

try to "pair" it back with the truck and see what happens...the RDLC should be on the passenger side of the GMT800 so approach it from the driver's side to really test it. Then try it from the passenger side to verify.

 

 

Edit: and quit running over the fobs with firetrucks...

Posted
RDLC??? and by pair you mean re-program?

 

 

lol yeah im been good... i havent ran anything over in 3 years...

 

Sorry...

RDLC = Remote Door Lock Computer (Module)...(If my memory is correct)

roger on the reprogram...

Posted

how do you reprogram it... the cycle my buddy told me was

Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder.

Press and hold the door unlock switch.

While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, cycle the ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF.

Release the door unlock switch. The doors will lock and unlock to confirm the program mode.

Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button simultaneously on one transmitter. After a delay of approximately 15 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock to confirm the programming of that transmitter.

Repeat the previous step to program up to 4 transmitters.

Turn the ignition switch

to the RUN position in order to exit the keyless entry transmitter programming mode.

Operate the transmitter functions in order to verify correct system operation.

 

 

 

this right???

Posted
how do you reprogram it... the cycle my buddy told me was

Insert the ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder.

Press and hold the door unlock switch.

While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, cycle the ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF.

Release the door unlock switch. The doors will lock and unlock to confirm the program mode.

Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button simultaneously on one transmitter. After a delay of approximately 15 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock to confirm the programming of that transmitter.

Repeat the previous step to program up to 4 transmitters.

Turn the ignition switch

to the RUN position in order to exit the keyless entry transmitter programming mode.

Operate the transmitter functions in order to verify correct system operation.

 

 

 

this right???

 

Yup, in fact it worked for me about 3 hours ago when I got my kob from ebay. Picked it up for like $18 shipped. It works :lol:

Posted
A couple of weeks ago my key fob started acting weird. what i mean by weird is it wont unlock when i press the unlock button... i thought is was the battery so i changed it. nope, not the problem. i would try my other key fob that i got when i bought my truck but well how do i put this.... it was ran over by a fire truck.... i work for a volunteer FD and it fell out of my pocket in the station and the truck ran it over and i didn't notice it till we got back... any tips or ideas what it could be???

 

I have a 2003 sierra 1500... if that helps...

 

 

Check the points on the battery straps where it is soldiered to the board.... This is a BAD problem with nearly every make/model remote with a coin style battery. The metal strap should be soldiered in 3 spots on most GM remotes.

 

If your not good with a soldiering iron take it to computer repair place. Most of them will have a soldiering bench and they have someone very skilled in this........ I shake to bad to do this anymore......

 

Jbo

 

However,

 

Edit: -- Ford Remotes and some other make (I don't remember which one thou).... Sometimes require a refresh of the remote if you change the battery. Ford's procedure is hold both lock and unlock for 15 seconds. Locks will cycle to verify the refresh has been completed. If it was not so FREEKN cold here I would go out and see if the other make is GM.....

Posted

Check the points on the battery straps where it is soldiered to the board.... This is a BAD problem with nearly every make/model remote with a coin style battery. The metal strap should be soldiered in 3 spots on most GM remotes.

 

 

 

I've seen this happen a lot also. I think the board flexes when the buttons are pushed. The soldier can't flex and it cracks. After repairing the soldier spots, I put a little JB weld on the outside of the battery strap.

Posted
reprogrammed it... works great i can get in my truck now on my driver side instead of unlocking it with the key on the passenger side...!

 

 

thank you guys helped me out!

 

 

You have a lock on your passagners side?? WTF...my truck only has the lock on the drivers side.

Posted
reprogrammed it... works great i can get in my truck now on my driver side instead of unlocking it with the key on the passenger side...!

 

 

thank you guys helped me out!

 

 

You have a lock on your passagners side?? WTF...my truck only has the lock on the drivers side.

 

 

 

 

yeah i thought my truck was weird.... i can put my key in, but it wont turn( driver side) but on my passenger it will.. my truck was never wrecked or hit before i bought it.. i got hit in a parking lot and that was the only time it was hit and that was the passenger side...so its not like they could of changed the lock side.... it was allways like that..

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 37's would probably fit with a 3" lift. GM only has two gear ratios for these trucks 3.73 for gas and 3.42 for diesel. And they can't be programmed for anything else at the moment. The rough country module just corrects the speedometer and odometer to adjust for tire size it's not a programming device.   You haven't said if your truck is gas or diesel, but for a gas truck the 10L1000 with 3.73 gears has a lower final drive ratio than the 6L90 it replaced would if it were swapped to 4.10s. GM used the same 3.73 gearing in 6 speed gas trucks. I don't think you'll have any issue running 37's with the 10 speed other than the reduction in mpg and towing/weight capacity which is as much of a function of the lift as the tire size.
    • Actually, it probably was the brakes.  It's weird the way the messages came across, but I took it to the dealer thinking that something was wrong with the sensor and in fact, the rear brakes were shot.  What I don't understand is why the messages never said, your brake pads are low.  First I got the message I posted above, taking about new pads being detected.  Then I got a message saying that the system needed repaired.  It never said, change your brake pads.
    • Did the KYBs keep it the same height in the front? I was concerned that pre-assembled assembly would raise it up an inch to standard non-z60 height.. I guess which it would make the rake 1 inch instead of 2 inches.
    • Thank you for keeping the train on the tracks and for a thoughtful engagement. I enjoyed the reflection on a previous stance to refine and improve your position. I like that inquisitive flexibility about you Atlas.    No the process isn't sterile. Hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles of piping, vessels, pumps. Chevron, the people I worked for, were keenly aware that there is a market for what is known as their "ISOCLEAN" line of lubricants. These are lubricants that are the same as those sold bulk that are further processed by filtration to a level your particular application demands. They will filter and package and provide lab documentation as required. Do not kid yourself. Every gallon of oil that goes into a Chevron Turbine, reciprocating compressor, generator is prefiltered and tested before being charged. Lest wise it was when I was there in the plants I worked in.    There are requirements set by manufactures for the cleanliness of the oils used in their equipment. OTR such as CUMMINS has standards shared with customers on this. Commercial interest selling to Ma and Pa do, but don't share that information. Not even upon request but internally, they do exist.    The GM study sited, (Graph from Machinery Lubrication in previous post) only shows "relative" importance.  I find that fascinating. By constructing the graph like this they admit there are dozens of factors in engine life and via scientific method determined the effect of 'relative cleanliness' on engine life not in miles but in 'FACTORS'. This allows a certain amount of reverse engineering does it not?   They even provided some touchstones. Beta 75 as a reference point. Wonderful stuff!!   Smaller blenders CAN and some DO take the time and effort to do better than a refinery or large bulk blender, like Warren Oil, in improving the "in the can" cleanliness. No I don't have a list but testing could generate that information.    Again, but one of several levers we can pull to improve engine life. The simplest is keeping a clean work station while doing your own oil changes.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...