Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The question of where to locate RAP (Retained Accessory Power) on the NBS trucks seems to come up often so I thought I would post this info for everybody.

RAP is available to us in the MBEC (Mid-Bussed Electrical Connector) located behind the instrument panel to the left of the brake pedal. The MBEC has 10 positions and the one we are going to us is X14. The problem is that RAP here is limited to only 300 milliamps but there are two other battery feeds in the location as well, one is 15 amps and the other 30. So to use the RAP power for anything but the smallest loads is going to require a relay.

Here are the parts you are going to need and the source that I purchased them from but they are available from many other sources as well.

 

3 Female GT 280 terminals Delphi Part number 15304711 Mouser part number 829-15304711

 

1 Relay pigtail Parts express part number 330-075

1 Bosch style relay Parts express part# 330-079

1 GM Connector 20791502 (optional)

 

Here is the relay harness, relay and connectors.

 

wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is 800x471 pixels and 37KB in size.RAP_Relay.jpg

 

There are 5 wires in the harness connected as follows.

 

White wire – Relay trigger positive – relay pin 85

Black wire – Relay trigger ground – relay pin 86

Blue – Constant 12v source – relay pin 30

Yellow – NO (normally open) circuit – relay pin 87

Red – relay pin 87a, this wire is not used and needs to be removed.

 

You will need to install the female terminals on the white, black and blue wires. Since I elected not to spend money for the GM Connector I went ahead and covered my connectors with shrink wrap. I may still pickup2_bing.gif the connector but needed to get this done and hadn’t had a chance to get to the dealer and didn’t want to pay GMPartsDirect their freight charges. Here are my finished cable ends.

 

wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is 1024x833 pixels and 54KB in size.RAP_Connectors.jpg

 

Remove the cover to the MBEC, it looks like this

 

wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is 761x508 pixels and 43KB in size.RAP_Cover.jpg

 

Here is a diagram of the MBEC connectors; we need to use X14

 

RAP_MBEC.jpg

 

A close-up of X14

 

RAP_X14.jpg

 

The connections will be as follows

 

White wire to Pin 8 - RAP feed

Black wire to Pin 1 - Ground

Blue wire to Pin 2 or Pin 5. Pin 2 has 15 amps which was plenty for my needs. Pin 5 has 30 amps. - Battery feed

 

The remaining yellow wire will feed your accessories.

 

Enjoy….

  • Like 3
Posted

Great write-up. Nice to see it all with pictures. Only thing I would add is that you should put a fuse in the main power line for safety.

 

Excellent work!!

Posted
Great write-up. Nice to see it all with pictures. Only thing I would add is that you should put a fuse in the main power line for safety.

 

Excellent work!!

 

 

The two circuits outlined are part of the provisions for upfitters and are already fused at the 15 and 30 amps described. In my installation the output from the relay feeds an accessory fuse block giving me four fuse locations with a total of 15 amps available. Currently I am powering two items, a GPS and a cigarette lighter output that is RAP instead of always on.

Posted

Thanks for the great write-up. I hardwired my Sirius radio yesterday following these directions. I also used the hardwire install kit from TSS Radio as well as one of the noise filters they sell. It sounds great now with none of the noise I had when it was hooked into the cigarette lighter.

Posted

Do you happen to have the part number for the GM connector? I have no idea what this costs and would like to look into this option. Thanks!

Posted
Do you happen to have the part number for the GM connector? I have no idea what this costs and would like to look into this option. Thanks!

 

1 GM Connector 20791502 (optional)

 

It lists for only $12.10 and I almost ordered it from GMParts direct but with there shipping price went up to $24 bucks. Since I hadn't made it to my dealer to order and I needed to get the project done I elected to finish without it. I may order one next time I'm in the dealer and peel the heat shrink and install it just to make it look a little more complete. The connector comes with only a single wire in the ground positions so you still need the other parts.

Posted
Do you happen to have the part number for the GM connector? I have no idea what this costs and would like to look into this option. Thanks!

 

1 GM Connector 20791502 (optional)

 

It lists for only $12.10 and I almost ordered it from GMParts direct but with there shipping price went up to $24 bucks. Since I hadn't made it to my dealer to order and I needed to get the project done I elected to finish without it. I may order one next time I'm in the dealer and peel the heat shrink and install it just to make it look a little more complete. The connector comes with only a single wire in the ground positions so you still need the other parts.

 

 

Thanks, I guess it would help if I read the entire dam post next time! :lol:

Posted

Awsome post!!

very easy to understand. thanks for the pictures too!

I will be installing my xm radio into my truck soon and needed this info.

Thanks for taking the time to do this for everyone!!!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for the great write up. I'm going to install headrest monitors using your instruction. I have one question. Am I supposed to connect both red and black power wires from the headrest monitors to the yellow wire? Thanks for your help.

Awsome post!!

very easy to understand. thanks for the pictures too!

I will be installing my xm radio into my truck soon and needed this info.

Thanks for taking the time to do this for everyone!!!

Posted
red and black power wires from the headrest monitors to the yellow wire?

 

Without seeing the directions for your monitors I would guess that the black wire is ground. If so then no, only the red wire to yellow. Also anything connected to the circuit should be fused.

Posted

Thank you so much for your quick reply. There is a fuse on the wires coming from the headrest monitors. I'll give it a go and let you know how it turns out in a few days.

red and black power wires from the headrest monitors to the yellow wire?

 

Without seeing the directions for your monitors I would guess that the black wire is ground. If so then no, only the red wire to yellow. Also anything connected to the circuit should be fused.

 

Posted
The question of where to locate RAP (Retained Accessory Power) on the NBS trucks seems to come up often so I thought I would post this info for everybody.

RAP is available to us in the MBEC (Mid-Bussed Electrical Connector) located behind the instrument panel to the left of the brake pedal. The MBEC has 10 positions and the one we are going to us is X14. The problem is that RAP here is limited to only 300 milliamps but there are two other battery feeds in the location as well, one is 15 amps and the other 30. So to use the RAP power for anything but the smallest loads is going to require a relay.

Here are the parts you are going to need and the source that I purchased them from but they are available from many other sources as well.

 

3 Female GT 280 terminals Delphi Part number 15304711 Mouser part number 829-15304711

 

1 Relay pigtail Parts express part number 330-075

1 Bosch style relay Parts express part# 330-079

1 GM Connector 20791502 (optional)

 

Here is the relay harness, relay and connectors.

 

wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is 800x471 pixels and 37KB in size.RAP_Relay.jpg

 

There are 5 wires in the harness connected as follows.

 

White wire – Relay trigger positive – relay pin 85

Black wire – Relay trigger ground – relay pin 86

Blue – Constant 12v source – relay pin 30

Yellow – NO (normally open) circuit – relay pin 87

Red – relay pin 87a, this wire is not used and needs to be removed.

 

You will need to install the female terminals on the white, black and blue wires. Since I elected not to spend money for the GM Connector I went ahead and covered my connectors with shrink wrap. I may still pickup2_bing.gif the connector but needed to get this done and hadn't had a chance to get to the dealer and didn't want to pay GMPartsDirect their freight charges. Here are my finished cable ends.

 

wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is 1024x833 pixels and 54KB in size.RAP_Connectors.jpg

 

Remove the cover to the MBEC, it looks like this

 

wol_error.gifThis image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is 761x508 pixels and 43KB in size.RAP_Cover.jpg

 

Here is a diagram of the MBEC connectors; we need to use X14

 

RAP_MBEC.jpg

 

A close-up of X14

 

RAP_X14.jpg

 

The connections will be as follows

 

White wire to Pin 8 - RAP feed

Black wire to Pin 1 - Ground

Blue wire to Pin 2 or Pin 5. Pin 2 has 15 amps which was plenty for my needs. Pin 5 has 30 amps. - Battery feed

 

The remaining yellow wire will feed your accessories.

 

Enjoy….

 

 

I went to many local shops, including GM Dealer. Nobody carried Delphi 15304711-L. I had to order it on the Mouser Site and pay the "shipping". But I bought 6 instead of 3, for the next project whenever it happens, or if I screw it up.

Posted

Is this the same type of connector plug that is used when installing a trailer brake? I recall someone else on one of the forums calling out another plug supplier for that part-

 

Thanks for a great, clear write-up. I think even I can follow these directions ;^)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,519 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...