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Posted

Ok so I have a 2004 2500HD 6.0l. It was a little on the doggish side imo. Although I am used to the brother in laws 8.1 with 500hp.

 

I got a hypertech tuner and put in 91 tune, and an AEM intake. I know some are going to say it was a waste, but it def has better throttle response and take off. Also has better crusing in OD for power, and gas mileage. My question is my driver side manifold is leaking. At warm its fine, but cold it ticks bad. I wanted some shorty headers because I dont want to modify my exhaust, and I figured get rid of the cast and go ceramic. What is the best shorty headers for a 6.0? I was looking at some eddy's for $345.

 

Another problem is I tow a boat and sleds. My rear end is now doing something wierd with the locker. When I take a right turn from a stop, it hitches and makes a growling noise in the rear end. At take off only seems to be the problem. I have changed the fluid, and I bought the truck with 78k on it. It now has 83K but has done it since I bought it. Is it the locker? What am i looking at for cost?

 

I really like the truck and am more impressed after the tuner and intake, plus it sounds good with the intake. Any help would be appreciated.

Posted

Well, if you need the rear end replaced, you'd be looking at about $300- $400 for the diff if you have a G80, plus labor to install it, which could be pushing depending on labor rates. I just went through all this with my truck, I had an open diff and went to a G80, I found a G80 on ebay for $175 and the guy was about 2 hours away, so I drove up and had him install it, overall it cost me about $425

Posted

Is the G80 making the noise while you're empty, or pulling a trailer, or both? The rear end is PROBABLY fine. People have been complaining about that issue since the G80 was introduced, BUT depending on your answer to the previous question, the solution may differ. I would drive it until something blows up. OR as long as you'd be in the rear end anyway (...haha. sorry, had to say it.), solve the G80 issue and replace it with a Detroit TruTrac unit and take care of that doggish feeling with some 4.56 gears. As for the shorty headers, you won't notice an increase in performance really, but they're about the same as what you'd pay for stock ones anyway. As long as you're replacing them, I'd get stainless, but that's just me.

Posted

The locker does it loaded or empty. It does it worse loaded. I can only describe it as hitching for like 2 seconds like almost I had 2 different gear sets in the rear and the front end, almost like fighting eachother. You can hear it and feel it. Feels like if I got on the throttle, it would rip the rear end out. Once I start rolling it seems to be fine. And it doesnt do it evertime I take off, about 8 our of ten times. If take off going straight, it doesnt seem to do it.

 

Wouldnt ceramic headers be better for heat disipation? What is the stainless going to do over the caramic?

Posted
Wouldnt ceramic headers be better for heat disipation?

 

Yes - night and day difference. Very low underhood temps, which help preserve electrical components under the hood, plus better exhaust scavenging for better exhaust flow.

 

What is the stainless going to do over the caramic?

 

Turn blue immediately, raise underhood temps, and have the potential to rust. But they look great from the time when you install them until they warm up the first time!

Posted

shortys don't really kick out the gains, long tubes would though...ceramic or stainless its your choice, theres always header rap....as far as the g80 theres not alot you can do, the clutches or whatever they are in there may be worn out

Posted

yea i figured it was worn. The guy who used it def towed and i think dumped the truck because it has some small issues. Awesome truck all around though. Ill get get some headers to replace the stock ones, and run the G80 till it dies.

Posted
yea i figured it was worn. The guy who used it def towed and i think dumped the truck because it has some small issues. Awesome truck all around though. Ill get get some headers to replace the stock ones, and run the G80 till it dies.

 

 

even if the g80 dies you will still have a rear end unless it grenades, your tires just won't be able to lock up...the g80s been kind of a hit and fail, i love mine and have had zero issues, other people hate it...depends on how you treat it, if the guy before you womped on it then its probaly got a foot in the grave, alot of pudwhacks around here think the g80 is an excuse to smoke the tires and wow is it a good laugh when the thing takes a shit on them.. :shakehead:

Posted
Wouldnt ceramic headers be better for heat disipation?

 

What is the stainless going to do over the caramic?

 

Turn blue immediately, raise underhood temps, and have the potential to rust. But they look great from the time when you install them until they warm up the first time!

 

 

That defeats the point of them being stainless... Might as well buy some cheaper cast iron ones if it all rusts the same...

Posted
That defeats the point of them being stainless... Might as well buy some cheaper cast iron ones if it all rusts the same...

 

No one was recommending stainless. Properly ceramic coated headers don't rust. For cheaper cast iron, stick with the rusty stock exhaust manifolds.

Posted
That defeats the point of them being stainless... Might as well buy some cheaper cast iron ones if it all rusts the same...

 

No one was recommending stainless. Properly ceramic coated headers don't rust. For cheaper cast iron, stick with the rusty stock exhaust manifolds.

 

 

As long as you're replacing them, I'd get stainless...

 

:cool: Oh no?

 

But I agree, if you want the most gain/difference from shorty headers, get ceramic.

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