Drum Brakes

[DaveRave]

Just a final note. When using the two threaded holes with bolts that fit, you may actually experience two pops. If the drum is still stuck after the first crank the other bolt in farther. This has happened to me. Usually though the rust bond in total will be liberated with the first audible POP especially if you cranked the two bolts in at about the same depth. Then the drum should move back and forth yet still be tight. Drums not only wear with rear shoe friction (braking hydraulic pressure) but any untreated drum area will rust in place with moisture humidity and air (oxygen). If the drums have never been removed and the vehicle has 90,000 miles then expect the outside to be oxidized and a ridge will form on the inside of the drum near the outer edge where the shoes do not contact the drum. And it's that rusty crusty ridge that will be the last impediment to drum removal. Pop off the rubber adjuster window plug and back off the star wheel. From the backing plate top side my Helms manual says pry it up with a screw driver while pushing or holding the adjuster lock arm out of the way.

[DaveL61]

2 threaded m10 bolt holes on drum. Insert bolt tighten with impact,drum off!

[asilverblazer]

20 hours ago, DaveL61 said:

2 threaded m10 bolt holes on drum. Insert bolt tighten with impact,drum off!

I've broken the tabs in the wheel cylinders where the shoes sit in the pistons using this method.