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Whats Wrong With My Wheels?!


roperninja

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Posted

Torsion bars are cranked all the way.

 

New Ball Joints

 

New Outer Tie Rod End

 

Upper a arm settings all the way out.

 

Still the tires lean hard inwards and are eating the inner tread of my tires really fast...

 

Any help?

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Posted
Torsion bars are cranked all the way.

 

New Ball Joints

 

New Outer Tie Rod End

 

Upper a arm settings all the way out.

 

Still the tires lean hard inwards and are eating the inner tread of my tires really fast...

 

Any help?

There is your problem. You are trying to get lift out of something not designed yo give lift.

Posted
Wouldnt cranking the torsion bars give you a toe in, the opposite of what he is having?

At full droop (or full extension), the shorter upper and longer lower control arms would result in a lot of negative camber input. If the bars are jacked up as far as they will go the suspension is operating way outside of it's designed range. Same effect can be seen on many vehicles when they are jacked up from the center.

Posted

When you lift by cranking the torsion bars to the max, the shorter upper control arm pulls the top of the wheel in toward the body. It's not designed to be in that position. It's also gonna eat ball joints.

 

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Posted

Impossible that it is caused by the t-bar crank. With two parallel bars (A arms) on fixed points on the frame and hub assembly, you cannot twist that, they can only move up and down following an arc.

 

Upper and lower control arms cannot stretch or shrink. Cranking the torsion bars changes their position, but they can only travel in the same arc.

 

Something else is out of whack for the wheels to be like that. From a t-bar crank with no alignment, they would be leaning the other way.

Posted
Impossible that it is caused by the t-bar crank. With two parallel bars (A arms) on fixed points on the frame and hub assembly, you cannot twist that, they can only move up and down following an arc.

 

Upper and lower control arms cannot stretch or shrink. Cranking the torsion bars changes their position, but they can only travel in the same arc.

 

Something else is out of whack for the wheels to be like that. From a t-bar crank with no alignment, they would be leaning the other way.

 

No its not impossible, and a t-bar crank will indeed cause negative camber, not positive camber (ever done any alignments?). The suspension is designed for camber changes as the suspension extends/compresses... they are different length arms and WILL cause negative camber when the torsion bars are cranked.

 

He needs to decrank the torsion bars to get the control arms within an alignable spec range.

Posted
Impossible that it is caused by the t-bar crank. With two parallel bars (A arms) on fixed points on the frame and hub assembly, you cannot twist that, they can only move up and down following an arc.

 

Upper and lower control arms cannot stretch or shrink. Cranking the torsion bars changes their position, but they can only travel in the same arc.

 

Something else is out of whack for the wheels to be like that. From a t-bar crank with no alignment, they would be leaning the other way.

This is absolutely untrue. The upper arms are a bunch shorter than the lowers. And extreme travel (up or down) and the upper travels in a much shorter arc, bringing the top of the tire in.

Posted

OP- I'd also check your bearings to make sure the hub doesn't have some play. It's hard to tell by the pic... and the huge tires probably make it look worse since the larger diameter accentuates bad alignments; but make sure all bearings/joints are in good shape.

Posted

I can see it when there is enough droop that the rotor gets closer to a straight line with upper control arm. I never thought there was enough movement in the suspension to allow that.

 

I have not worked on a GMT800, but on my old Nissan there was a stopper preventing the arms to drop to that point.

Posted
I can see it when there is enough droop that the rotor gets closer to a straight line with upper control arm. I never thought there was enough movement in the suspension to allow that.

 

I have not worked on a GMT800, but on my old Nissan there was a stopper preventing the arms to drop to that point.

 

The GMT800 and GMT900 trucks have much less suspension travel than the OPs truck.. his is a GMT400.

 

On all trucks, an increase in ride height will result is some negative camber... however it may not be as discernible as the OP's case.

Posted
I can see it when there is enough droop that the rotor gets closer to a straight line with upper control arm. I never thought there was enough movement in the suspension to allow that.

 

I have not worked on a GMT800, but on my old Nissan there was a stopper preventing the arms to drop to that point.

 

The GMT800 and GMT900 trucks have much less suspension travel than the OPs truck.. his is a GMT400.

 

On all trucks, an increase in ride height will result is some negative camber... however it may not be as discernible as the OP's case.

 

+1

 

You could lift the heck out of a GMT400 by cranking the T bars but it screwed up the suspension geometry. Can't do that on a new truck...

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