5 Speed Hard To Shift

[remy's2000]

All the advice about fluid types etc are good.

The thought about the shifter being bad at 100,000 is good, it has been used after all.

 

My take? This is going to sound really crazy and stupid, but I know from experience. Take the shifter boot off one night after work, and drive around without the boot the next day. I am not sure how the GM manuals are set up, I haven't seen one in awhile, but in ALL my Jeeps I had the same problem. Come to find out, the rubber/pleather w/e got REALLY stiff when it was cold. Couldn't feel a big difference poking/squishing when it was cold, but I drove without the boot one time and sure as &&&& it was smooth..

 

Also remember, it is COLD after all. Cars/Trucks always act a little funny before they warm up for various reasons. Normal IMO. But, if it bothers you that much, just make sure everything is in working order to get some piece of mind.

 

 

I did remove the boot, still no luck. Thanks for the input.

[pm26]

Did you bleed the clutch hydraulic circuit properly? You may have some trapped air in it, and this may cause only partial movement of the slave cylinder piston, thus not fully releasing the pressure plate. Get some clear vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder (I assume there is one on it). Submerge the other end of the tubing into a plastic 1 quart bottle half filled with brake fluid. Then open the bleed screw about 1/2 to /3/4 turn and start pumping the clutch pedal. Make sure you do not suck the clutch master cylinder reservoir dry, add fluid after about 5 strokes of the clutch pedal. Make sure the other tubing end stays fully immersed in brake fluid in the bottle. When you see no air bubbles in line, tighten the bleed screw and remove the tubing and top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir.

 

I am not sure about GM trucks, some vehicles have clutch master cylinder reservoirs, some do not, as brake fluid supplied from the brake master cylinder.

[remy's2000]

Did you bleed the clutch hydraulic circuit properly? You may have some trapped air in it, and this may cause only partial movement of the slave cylinder piston, thus not fully releasing the pressure plate. Get some clear vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder (I assume there is one on it). Submerge the other end of the tubing into a plastic 1 quart bottle half filled with brake fluid. Then open the bleed screw about 1/2 to /3/4 turn and start pumping the clutch pedal. Make sure you do not suck the clutch master cylinder reservoir dry, add fluid after about 5 strokes of the clutch pedal. Make sure the other tubing end stays fully immersed in brake fluid in the bottle. When you see no air bubbles in line, tighten the bleed screw and remove the tubing and top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir.

 

I am not sure about GM trucks, some vehicles have clutch master cylinder reservoirs, some do not, as brake fluid supplied from the brake master cylinder.

I thought the same thing PM26, but the problem existed before all new parts were installed. New parts but same problem. It is so frustrating. I appreciate your input very much!!

[pm26]

If your transmission shifter has linkage to the transmission, check for any worn shifter bushings. I had this problem with my front wheel drive Mazda. Shifter linkage bushings were gone and the shifter was very sloppy. In some cases it can even bind. In your case it could be a similar problem at the base of the shifter.

 

From what you mentioned, looks like none of the parts your replaced were the root cause of your problem. The problem may be in the transmission itself.

[ken1mod]

If your transmission goes into reverse quietly, your clutch is releasing properly. This is true because reverse has no synchronizers and will crunch if the clutch does not disengage properly. That being said, most manual transmissions do not like cold oil, every one I have used was completely different when cold. 18 wheel transmissions must be shifted faster when cold then when hot.

 

I would experiment with different (approved) oils to make this problem less bothersome. I have done this many times to get the box to be less annoying when cold.

 

Good luck.

 

Ken

[pm26]

Delete - duplicate post

[pm26]

If your transmission goes into reverse quietly, your clutch is releasing properly. This is true because reverse has no synchronizers and will crunch if the clutch does not disengage properly. That being said, most manual transmissions do not like cold oil, every one I have used was completely different when cold. 18 wheel transmissions must be shifted faster when cold then when hot.

 

I would experiment with different (approved) oils to make this problem less bothersome. I have done this many times to get the box to be less annoying when cold.

 

Good luck.

 

Ken

 

I can recommend fully synthetic REDLINE MT 90 manual transmission fluid, specially made for manual transmissions. I used it before and it makes shifting easier when cold.

[rodram]

remember.... there is ONLY ONE approved transmission oil for this transmission and it is sold at the dealer....

 

if you don't use the ONE approved oil in this transmission then you start to lose your carbon fibre synchromesh gears .... this has nothing to do with warranty... it has everything to do with actual wear/tear and damage to your transmission...

 

If your transmission goes into reverse quietly, your clutch is releasing properly. This is true because reverse has no synchronizers and will crunch if the clutch does not disengage properly. That being said, most manual transmissions do not like cold oil, every one I have used was completely different when cold. 18 wheel transmissions must be shifted faster when cold then when hot.

 

I would experiment with different (approved) oils to make this problem less bothersome. I have done this many times to get the box to be less annoying when cold.

 

Good luck.

 

Ken

 

I can recommend fully synthetic REDLINE MT 90 manual transmission fluid, specially made for manual transmissions. I used it before and it makes shifting easier when cold.

 

 

[ken1mod]

I thought Chevy issues specifications and many products are acceptable for use.

 

Ken

[remy's2000]

I thought Chevy issues specifications and many products are acceptable for use.

 

Ken

In my owners manual it states Pennsoil synchromesh as an acceptable alternative to GM's oil. Right now that is what is in there. As for cold weather and the oil being part of the problem, would it make it feel like the shift lever is binding up? When in neutral the side to side motion is very stiff even if the truck is running or off. Does the side to side motion move the forks? No grinding of gears when trying to shift or reverse. Just the feel of binding in the shift lever.

[twavor]

ken1mod is right...if it goes into reverse without grinding, more than likely it's nothing to do with the clutch. Have you tried driving a similar truck to see if it acts the same?

 

Travis

[ken1mod]

Thick, cold oil will definitely feel like the linkage is binding. Does problem go away after 5 miles or so of driving? If so, the thick oil is very likely the culprit. Since the synchronizers are basically wet clutches that match gear speeds, oil characteristics are very important. How was it with the gm oil? I have seen this many times but do make sure the clutch is not dragging. Make sure you fully depress the pedal when shifting.

 

Ken

[remy's2000]

Thick, cold oil will definitely feel like the linkage is binding. Does problem go away after 5 miles or so of driving? If so, the thick oil is very likely the culprit. Since the synchronizers are basically wet clutches that match gear speeds, oil characteristics are very important. How was it with the gm oil? I have seen this many times but do make sure the clutch is not dragging. Make sure you fully depress the pedal when shifting.

 

Ken

HI Ken... I thought it was oil related from the begining and changed the oil to Pennsoil synchromesh which was recomended alternative to the gm stuff per my owners manual. The shifting problem was exactly the same from the oil that was in there to the new stuff. There is new everything clutch related as of 2 days ago with the exact same problem. Would the clutch dragging happen if the truck is not running? As for depressing clutch all the way, I do and even try double clutching to see if that helps, but no difference. I think today I will go and get the gm oil and try it.

 

Thanks for everyones input. much appreciated!!

 

Remy

[ken1mod]

moving the shift lever side to side does not move any shift forks. Does this shift lever go into the top of the transmission or does it operate a "Shifter" mechanism with rods and levers going into the trans? Side to side motion should be effortless, parked or moving, just soft centering springs should be felt.

 

I guess my question is this, does the transmission behave perfectly after 5 miles or so? Just like an engine has to be cut some slack when it is cold, so too a transmission. Is it easier to shift when cold if you shift at low rpms?

 

Ken

[rodram]

... while the GM oil is the recommended/approved fluid ... I don't think that changing the transmission oil from your Pennzoil at this time is going to make this transmission work any different ...

 

.. if there is already wear in your transmission, just having the new fluid itself will not likely provide the remedy you are looking for....