Pac Oem-1

2009SierraZ71 · July 10, 2010

I'm looking at adding an amp to the factory, non-bose audio sytem on my 2009 Sierra. I'm a little confused on how the PAC OEM-1 hooks up to the factory system. I believe it's called the C connector - that has the 5 plugs on it. The white plug goes into the PAC unit. However, I'm not sure on the 2 female plugs and the 2 male plugs. I understand that 1 or 2 of the male plugs would plug into the back of the factory head unit. However, what are the female plugs used for? Wouldn't those not be used and just left hanging? At first I thought the speaker leads would plug into those but then the speaker wires out of the output from the amp wouldn't plug into anything - and that doesn't make any sense.

Does that question make sense? If anyone has hooked up the PAC OEM-1 (AOEM-GM1416) to their 2007 + Sierra/Silverado can you let me know how you hooked it up to the system? How did you hook up the output from the new amplifier to the speaker lines? And where do the male and female connectors on the "C" cable plug into? I haven't seen the back of the factory head unit, yet, so maybe if I did see that it would make more sense. But the light bulb in my head just isn't going off, yet.

Thank you.

5829BMG · July 10, 2010

should go truck harness male to pac harness female then pac harness male to back of radio. at least thats the way mine was (non-bose)

2009SierraZ71 · July 10, 2010

should go truck harness male to pac harness female then pac harness male to back of radio. at least thats the way mine was (non-bose)

How idid you connect the speaker wires from the amp to the speakers? Did you splice them into the factory wiring or did you find adapters so you didn't have to splice the factory wiring?

mjg62 · July 10, 2010

I left the factory wiring intact, just disconected at the speakers and tied it up.Then ran new 16ga speaker wire from the new amp to the speakers.

2009SierraZ71 · July 11, 2010

Very good. Thank you for the info.

RJG183SA · August 2, 2010

Any updates on the install? I'm in the process of installing an amp. to drive the front and rear speakers on a 07 Lucerne, oem H.U. Cruthfield sent me a Scosche LOC that requires cutting the factory harness, not to crazy about this.

Also wondering how you are dealing with the amplified door chimes, turn signals etc.

2009SierraZ71 · August 4, 2010

Any updates on the install? I'm in the process of installing an amp. to drive the front and rear speakers on a 07 Lucerne, oem H.U. Cruthfield sent me a Scosche LOC that requires cutting the factory harness, not to crazy about this.

Also wondering how you are dealing with the amplified door chimes, turn signals etc.

I'm still in planning stages. I was in contact with someone else on this board who is dealing with the amplified door chimes/turn signals. I was considering getting the PAC OS-4 and using that with the factory head unit as that will address the chimes/turn signal issue. Then I remembered I have a decent Alpine HU I can install. I don't like that it's single DIN and it'll leave a cubby hole above the radio but it is does have a blue face and sounds great. My goal was to leave the factory head unit but now my plans are to get the PAC OS-4, replace the head unit and use an amp I already have for the sub. I'll also get a subthump box for the SW. This way I can test how the door chimes/blinkers sound out of the PAC OS-4 and the wiring will be a heck of a lot easier. I can always upgrade to an amp later or upgrade the Alpine HU, too.

The Alpine SPS-600s sound great but one of my speakers in the suicide doors hits the plastic housing when it gets some base so I have to reinstall those. Once that's done I'll probably start pursing the above list unless my plans change again. I want this done right and don't want to waste any money in doing it.

RJG183SA · August 4, 2010

Any updates on the install? I'm in the process of installing an amp. to drive the front and rear speakers on a 07 Lucerne, oem H.U. Cruthfield sent me a Scosche LOC that requires cutting the factory harness, not to crazy about this.

Also wondering how you are dealing with the amplified door chimes, turn signals etc.

I'm still in planning stages. I was in contact with someone else on this board who is dealing with the amplified door chimes/turn signals. I was considering getting the PAC OS-4 and using that with the factory head unit as that will address the chimes/turn signal issue. Then I remembered I have a decent Alpine HU I can install. I don't like that it's single DIN and it'll leave a cubby hole above the radio but it is does have a blue face and sounds great. My goal was to leave the factory head unit but now my plans are to get the PAC OS-4, replace the head unit and use an amp I already have for the sub. I'll also get a subthump box for the SW. This way I can test how the door chimes/blinkers sound out of the PAC OS-4 and the wiring will be a heck of a lot easier. I can always upgrade to an amp later or upgrade the Alpine HU, too.

The Alpine SPS-600s sound great but one of my speakers in the suicide doors hits the plastic housing when it gets some base so I have to reinstall those. Once that's done I'll probably start pursing the above list unless my plans change again. I want this done right and don't want to waste any money in doing it.

Thanks Alan.

I ordered the PAC OEM-1 GM1416. I know it won't solve the amplified warning sounds problem, but it appears to be superior to the Scosche unit, plug and play.

Its been over 20 years since I have messed around with auto sound systems, been quite the learning experience figuring out the "integration" process. This forum has helped tremendously! Thanks.

2009SierraZ71 · August 5, 2010

Any updates on the install? I'm in the process of installing an amp. to drive the front and rear speakers on a 07 Lucerne, oem H.U. Cruthfield sent me a Scosche LOC that requires cutting the factory harness, not to crazy about this.

Also wondering how you are dealing with the amplified door chimes, turn signals etc.

I'm still in planning stages. I was in contact with someone else on this board who is dealing with the amplified door chimes/turn signals. I was considering getting the PAC OS-4 and using that with the factory head unit as that will address the chimes/turn signal issue. Then I remembered I have a decent Alpine HU I can install. I don't like that it's single DIN and it'll leave a cubby hole above the radio but it is does have a blue face and sounds great. My goal was to leave the factory head unit but now my plans are to get the PAC OS-4, replace the head unit and use an amp I already have for the sub. I'll also get a subthump box for the SW. This way I can test how the door chimes/blinkers sound out of the PAC OS-4 and the wiring will be a heck of a lot easier. I can always upgrade to an amp later or upgrade the Alpine HU, too.

The Alpine SPS-600s sound great but one of my speakers in the suicide doors hits the plastic housing when it gets some base so I have to reinstall those. Once that's done I'll probably start pursing the above list unless my plans change again. I want this done right and don't want to waste any money in doing it.

Thanks Alan.

I ordered the PAC OEM-1 GM1416. I know it won't solve the amplified warning sounds problem, but it appears to be superior to the Scosche unit, plug and play.

Its been over 20 years since I have messed around with auto sound systems, been quite the learning experience figuring out the "integration" process. This forum has helped tremendously! Thanks.

Yeah, the Alpine I have I installed into a 93 GMC pickup about 2 years ago. Those vehicles were a lot easier to upgrade than these. And it was less expensive doing so as well.

Let us know how your install goes. I've heard if the gains are kept down on the amps then the blinkers/chimes aren't too bad. I'm thinking you'll know soon enough. Hope all goes well.

And, yes, this board has been great for learning this stuff.

RJG183SA · August 10, 2010

Let us know how your install goes. I've heard if the gains are kept down on the amps then the blinkers/chimes aren't too bad. I'm thinking you'll know soon enough. Hope all goes well.

Finished my install yesterday. The PAC OEM1 worked nicely, eventually. The included instructions were confusing to me and my final configuration was not listed / shown. The instructions refer to 16 & 18 pin connectors. My vehicle has 14 (C1) & 16(C2) pin connectors. Initially, it was not clear to me if both sides of the PAC harness needed to be used. First, I plugged in both ends into the radio then connected the factory harness to the opposite ends. Connected neg. batt. cable, turned on radio, no power, only clock would display. Then I tried only one side of the PAC harness (the side with the label "add amp") connected to the radio. This presented another set of problems, this part of the harness is spliced into the left and right rear channels only which would be fine if only adding an amp / sub. I was attempting to add an amp to drive four speakers, needed four RCA channels out. The opposite side of the harness contained the two front channels & remote amp. power splices.

What I discovered. One, was that there was no corresponding wire in the PAC harness for one of two GMLAN data wires located at C1 position #14. Two, the PAC harness provided a wire in position #12 that was not used in the factory connector. I simply moved the wire from the #12 location to the vacant #14 position. Everything worked perfectly! The remote amp. wire (blue/wht.) provided 14-13 volts and appears to be tied into the RAP circuit. Perfect!

As far as the blinkers and chimes, they are around the same volume as stock, mainley because my amp gains for the fronts are only two positions above zero. Initially with the gains around fifty percent, the warning sounds were definitely louder but I could probably live with it.

PAC harness connected to radio

PAC harness connected to factory harness, C1 on right, C2 on left.

PAC module installed with double side tape, prior to replacing HVAC controls. Plenty of space in this area.

2009SierraZ71 · August 11, 2010

Let us know how your install goes. I've heard if the gains are kept down on the amps then the blinkers/chimes aren't too bad. I'm thinking you'll know soon enough. Hope all goes well.

Finished my install yesterday. The PAC OEM1 worked nicely, eventually. The included instructions were confusing to me and my final configuration was not listed / shown. The instructions refer to 16 & 18 pin connectors. My vehicle has 14 (C1) & 16(C2) pin connectors. Initially, it was not clear to me if both sides of the PAC harness needed to be used. First, I plugged in both ends into the radio then connected the factory harness to the opposite ends. Connected neg. batt. cable, turned on radio, no power, only clock would display. Then I tried only one side of the PAC harness (the side with the label "add amp") connected to the radio. This presented another set of problems, this part of the harness is spliced into the left and right rear channels only which would be fine if only adding an amp / sub. I was attempting to add an amp to drive four speakers, needed four RCA channels out. The opposite side of the harness contained the two front channels & remote amp. power splices.

What I discovered. One, was that there was no corresponding wire in the PAC harness for one of two GMLAN data wires located at C1 position #14. Two, the PAC harness provided a wire in position #12 that was not used in the factory connector. I simply moved the wire from the #12 location to the vacant #14 position. Everything worked perfectly! The remote amp. wire (blue/wht.) provided 14-13 volts and appears to be tied into the RAP circuit. Perfect!

As far as the blinkers and chimes, they are around the same volume as stock, mainley because my amp gains for the fronts are only two positions above zero. Initially with the gains around fifty percent, the warning sounds were defiantly louder but I could probably live with it.

PAC harness connected to radio

PAC harness connected to factory harness, C1 on right, C2 on left.

PAC module installed with double side tape, prior to replacing HVAC controls. Plenty of space in this area.

Very nice. Thank you for the update and the great pics. Glad it worked out for you!!!!

2009SierraZ71 · August 11, 2010

RJG183SA posted some nice pics of his install with the Pac OEM-1. I'm sure that'll help someone else doing the same thing with their install.

I decided to take a different path with my install and chose the OS-4. I haven't seen any photos of the OS-4 just wired but not in the vehicle so I provided that.

The Alpine is out of my previous truck and it's only 2 years old so I decided to install it to see how everything sounds with the OS-4 and the turn signals/chimes. I had no idea the chime box was that small but there it is. Wow. We'll see how that sounds.

I'm also not sure what blue lead to use for the amp to power the sub. There's one off of the HU and one off of the OS-4. I'm going to go with the one off of the HU for now as I doubt it'll make a difference in the end but we'll see. If anyone has experience with that I'd appreciate the feedback.

Install will probably take place this weekend. The subthump box should arrive today and the adapter for the XM radio will probably arrive on Friday. I don't have XM subscription currently but might get it in the future so decided to hook it up for now so I don't have to later. That hookup is the 2 RCA cables near the HU that plug into the Ai-net adapter that goes into the back of the HU.

2009SierraZ71 · August 13, 2010

OS-4, amp, HU, and subthump installed. The chimes sound good but the turn signals - ha!! As soon as I heard them I started laughing. I can live with it for now - they do sound hokey, however.

Hot wire for amp off of battery:

Hot wire for amp run under battery and to passenger side towards cab:

Ran hot battery wire to passenger door and entered cab through rubber grommet.

HU installed:

HU night shot:

Sub thump box is black and under seat. Sounds good. Thought I'd have more base than I do but it's much, much better than before. Close to how I want it.

Hope this helps someone else. Spent all day doing install in the heat - glad it's done. Onstar works good, too.

dlewis1111 · August 14, 2010

OS-4, amp, HU, and subthump installed. The chimes sound good but the turn signals - ha!! As soon as I heard them I started laughing. I can live with it for now - they do sound hokey, however.

Hot wire for amp off of battery:

Hot wire for amp run under battery and to passenger side towards cab:

Ran hot battery wire to passenger door and entered cab through rubber grommet.

HU installed:

HU night shot:

Sub thump box is black and under seat. Sounds good. Thought I'd have more base than I do but it's much, much better than before. Close to how I want it.

Hope this helps someone else. Spent all day doing install in the heat - glad it's done. Onstar works good, too.

Glad it worked out for you. You need to change your steering wheel to one with the audio controls and integrate the OS-4 completely. Did you move the XM to the DIC? You mentioned the blue wire for the amp. You may run into a problem with the RAP feature if you are not using the blue amp wire from the OS-4. The amp MAY power down immediately instead of the 10 min / door opening cutoff.

2009SierraZ71 · August 14, 2010

OS-4, amp, HU, and subthump installed. The chimes sound good but the turn signals - ha!! As soon as I heard them I started laughing. I can live with it for now - they do sound hokey, however.

Hot wire for amp off of battery:

Hot wire for amp run under battery and to passenger side towards cab:

Ran hot battery wire to passenger door and entered cab through rubber grommet.

HU installed:

HU night shot:

Sub thump box is black and under seat. Sounds good. Thought I'd have more base than I do but it's much, much better than before. Close to how I want it.

Hope this helps someone else. Spent all day doing install in the heat - glad it's done. Onstar works good, too.

Glad it worked out for you. You need to change your steering wheel to one with the audio controls and integrate the OS-4 completely. Did you move the XM to the DIC? You mentioned the blue wire for the amp. You may run into a problem with the RAP feature if you are not using the blue amp wire from the OS-4. The amp MAY power down immediately instead of the 10 min / door opening cutoff.

I didn't move the XM to the DIC. I have no idea how to do that. I thought the XM would work with leads for the OS-4 plugged into the AI-net port on the head unit but when I select source I don't get XM. So, not sure how to do that one.

The Amp works fine with the blue lead off of the head unit. It all stays on until the driver door is opened. If you could PM me on how to move the XM to the DIC that would be great. I'd like to have it functional if I decide to get XM again.