How To Level 2500hd

[GeeJay]

I'm a full time RVer and "snowbird", spending summers in Canada and winters in southern USA.

 

I would like to lower the rear on my 2007 Sierra "Classic" 2500HD 4x4 just enough to sit level when in daily driver mode ( as opposed to towing mode with 5W travel trailer hitched). I'm not sure how much the rear has to be lowered to accomplish this or the best way to do it.

 

The threads I have read on this all address leveling in the same context as lowering all round, which is NOT what I am after. If the front HAS to be lowered as well as the rear, to achieve level, I want the minimum needed in the front.

 

I had thought I would hitch my fifth wheel and slowly retract the front jacks until it sits the way I would like it when unhitched, and measure the difference, but that isn't convenient right now as we live in the 5W full time and it's set up for the summer season. I'm sure there must be many on this forum that can answer this and my other questions.

 

The daily light load is a fifth wheel slider hitch over the axle, about 300#, swing box tool boxes each side at rear, about 40# each with tools, and a retracting tonneau cover with rear wing, about 75#.

 

I tow a 16,000# fifth wheel with a pin weight of about 3000# but I have 5000# Airlift springs which bring it back to level, when hitched, with only 30 psi inflation, so I'm not too worried about dropping the rear a couple of inches, or whatever it takes, to level it with only the daily light load.

 

Q1a. Is it best to lower just the rear

OR

Q1b. Is it best to lower the front a little and rear a little more?

 

Q2a. What is the minimum the rear only has to be lowered to sit level?

OR

Q2b. What is the minimum the front and rear has to be lowered to sit level?

 

Q3. Considering the use of the truck what is the best way to do this?

 

Thnx

 

GJ

[Stevens03]

I suppose you have 2 options.

 

1. Remove the rear blocks under the leafs, but make sure you replace the u-bolts

2. Raise the front about 1-1/2" to make it more level. You can raise the front by cranking a little on your torsion bars.

 

Both options are free or nearly free.

 

Good luck

Steven

[Stranger ranger]

I personally would only crank the bars up in the front.

Going 1.5 inch's wont affect your ride quality and its free and takes 30 min tops to do.

[[email protected]]

When I leveled mine, I cranked a little bit on the bars and installed 3" drop shackles on the rear. Now it's actually about 3/4 in. higher in the front. My CV axle angles are still almost straight.

[briddle3]

i would raise the front to level the truck. just make sure that after you raise the front you get it alligned again because if not it will eat tires like crazy

[GeeJay]

I guess I didn't make it clear that I don't want to raise the truck at all, either end.

 

I don't like the stock "rake" look so I want to lower the rear just enough to level it with the normal light load of about 450 - 500#, if that is possible.

 

If the minimum it can be lowered in the rear is more than needed for level, I would consider lowering the front slightly.

 

I have upsized the tires to 265s (OE size for '07 3500HD) which was needed to carry the 5W pin weight, but that is the max without losing the gearing required towing capability. While they look better than the 2500HD OE 245s, they still look too small for the wheel well openings.

 

Thnx

 

GJ

[Stevens03]

You can remove 2" rear blocks and you'll get the look your after

[ak63]

Load 1 cubic yard of gravel in the bed (just over 3,000 pounds). The truck levels out nicely

[GeeJay]

Load 1 cubic yard of gravel in the bed (just over 3,000 pounds). The truck levels out nicely

 

I wouldn't put any amount of gravel in a bed with a 5W slider hitch, thanks.

 

It is a problem until I am ready to move the 5W! Can't think of any other way to depress the rear until the truck is level (other than loading weights which would be too physical for me) to measure the distance.

 

Anybody know the exact amount it must be lowered to level?

 

GJ

[Stranger ranger]

read two posts up.

[scottyknows50]

are there smaller blocks you can buy to put under the leafs? i'd like to think they're there for a reason. is it ok to have your leaf springs on your axle? thanks.

 

I suppose you have 2 options.

 

1. Remove the rear blocks under the leafs, but make sure you replace the u-bolts

2. Raise the front about 1-1/2" to make it more level. You can raise the front by cranking a little on your torsion bars.

 

Both options are free or nearly free.

 

Good luck

Steven

[Stranger ranger]

Cant see why it would hurt??? Plenty of trucks come with no blocks at all, or have came like that in the past.

[Diesail]

I may be wrong, but I believe with the larger AAM rear axle that the 8.1 and Duramax use there are no rear blocks to remove. If you want to drop the rear your best option is to use a longer shackle. You can get them from 1" - 4" of drop. Since you have bags, you also have the option of removing the overload leaf. Many have done this with claims up much improved ride when empty. If it where me, I would think about loosing the overload leaf first, then take some measurements to determine the drop you need to make it level.

[newdude]

Question: How often do you load up with the 16000 lbs trailer? Weekly, monthly?

[Ron Nielson]

Since every truck is somewhat different, you'll just have to measure your own truck. Measure from the ground to the bottom side of the wheel well at the centerline of the axles. The difference between the front and back is the amount needed to level. Don't change the front at all.

 

I used drop shackles on my 2008 CCLB 4X2 and thought it looked much better, not PERFECTLY level, but very close. They were 2" drop shackles and I got an actual change of 1 3/4" at the wheel well. This method does lessen the distance between your bumpstop and the axle, so you don't want to go too crazy with this modification. If needed, cut your bumpstops down a little to maintain adequate clearance.