Any Brake Upgrades Out There For The Gmt900 Hd?

[Pool Runner]

I've got an '08 2500 SWB Std-cab, 6.0L etc.. etc.. anyway, I've always got 900-1000 lbs of tools and gear on the truck and for some reason every week in the same spot on the same grade. Roughly a 1/4 mile downhill streatch on the freeway where I exit at the base causes the brakes to overheat, vibrate and turn to mush. I'm not even hard on them, or riding them. Is this normal for these trucks? If so does anyone make any heavy duty upgrades, even a slotted or cross-drilled set of disks might work for my application.

[r1byker]

Have you tried downshifting? That'll take a lot of the load off the brakes.

 

I bet if you do some searches you'll find something. I was able to find Brembo's for my Suburban pretty easily.

[ATMINF]

Something is not right with your brake system. I have had similar road conditions and my brakes have never acted in that manner. I could see it if you had been towing 12,000 lbs and going crazy fast but not with a stock truck and 1000lbs in the bed. Just does not sound right.

[Kodiak450]

I put on EBC slotted rotors on my 2500HD along with EBC HD pads. It's been over a year now and they held up really well with hardly any rust on them. Took some time to break them in, but I do notice the truck seems to feel like it stops much better vs the OEM rotors and pads. I know GM started using a 17" wheel on the late 07's or NBS, but was curious if they are using a bigger rotor as well? Also on the EBC rotors, they cost alot less then what an OEM crappy GM rotor cost. GM charges $250 a rotor, the EBC rotors cost about $400 for the complete set on my truck. Saving me about $600. I don't like the rotors GM has used on their trucks and SUV's, they all had progressive rust/rot that formed in the center of the rotors.

[Kodiak450]

Forgot to mention. I had to return the rear rotors because they were the wrong diameter for the rear hub. Apparently GM had two different diameter hubs for the 2500HD (at least they did for my gen truck). If you do decide to order rotors online, make sure they fit the rear hubs. If manufacturer has a list of the sizes on the site, then you will need the bigger size for the rear. Bascially it is a more deeper center of the rotor that fits onto the 2500HD's hubs.

[Diesail]

There are some upgrade options but the all require larger wheels, I believe 18" minimum. Don't know how much of a grade you are looking at but I agree with the earlier post, downshift and let the transmission/engine do some work for you.

[Doug_Scott]

You don't say anything about doing any maintenance on the brakes at all. Have you tried changing the brake fluid? As simple as it sounds, if you have any contaminents in the fluid it will show up under high heat braking.

[Ron Nielson]

Ryan

 

I don't know where you live, but you definitely have brake problems. You need to properly fit the brake pads to the caliper (they should be VERY EASY to put into the holder) and you need to use CRC brand synthetic brake grease to grease your pins. Make SURE your calipers EASILY slide in and out on the pins. Check the rubber/plastic shims at the inside of your calipers that hold the ends of the pins. Also, flush your brake system with quality clean fluid. NO NEED for any of those fancy expensive aftermarket brakes. Use stock GM pads and if rotors are needed, get the cheapest available at your local parts store. I do my truck like this and I can easily stop my 12K trailer any time I want to.

 

Ron

[newdude]

Whats the mileage on the truck right now? Also, do you live in a snowbelt state?

 

Lack of maintinance, excessive hard braking or getting them too hot can cause premature brake issues. Pulsations in the pedal can be from warped rotors and pedal fade from hot brakes. They could also be glazed over. Not maintaining them can also cause them to stick and allow the calipers to not slide properly. Also, I ask if you live in the snowbelt because there could be a moderate to severe rust ridge on the inside of the rotor that can cause issues.

 

Seeing you have a GMT-900, you can use manual mode to engine brake the truck. Or, just coast for a distance then slow the truck.

 

Could you change whats on the truck to OEM or aftermarket? Sure. But maintaining them (lubing the slider pins somewhat frequently, etc) regardless will make them last no matter what you choose.

[chrisb1]

For most GM HD owners from 2007 and newer, the notion of superb brakes is a pipe dream. Check the specs for rotor diameter

bewteen Ford, Ram and GM and you will find the GM HD with a brake rotor diameter less than 13". The 2011 GM HD has 14" rotors

with upgraded master cylinder and calipers. I have a 2008 HD Duramax and the stock brakes are far less than perfect.

 

The Tundra half ton has 13.9" rotors! And both RAM and Ford are at least 14". I am not trying to run down the GM product

but the reality is if excellent brake feel and performance is needed, get a 2011 GM HD.

 

There are upgrade kits for GM HD but they must be size checked to see if they will fit the 17" stock wheel. Rotor size, rotor thickness,

and caliper design are much improved for full upgrade kits.

 

Many big, brake upgrade kits are available. See below:

 

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Wilw...action=category

[ATMINF]

You do know that the HD trucks from 2000-2010 are basically the same?(besides the change to a 4L80 to a 6L90 trans, and engines 300-320hp to 353hp) The 2011 HD trucks are finally different and improved from the previous GMT-800 HD setup. With all that being said, the GMT-800 HD brakes are actually pretty good in my view. I have always been able to stop with no issues, towing or having a heavy load in the bed(about two tons or gravel in the bed). just my 2 cents.

[markw8]

The 16" wheels limited the size of the rotors. The caliper just cleared the wheel.

 

I have to agree that the OP has something wrong with his truck brakes, that isn't normal. I had a 2000, 2500 I carried and stopped without problems a 3500# truck camper. I did eventually have problems when the roters rusted and delaminated. This was at 40k plus miles.

 

Mark