Jump to content

Looking To Gain A Few Inches In My 2wd


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well I took my truck hunting for the first time and I've found that I can barely make some of the cross ditches (still made em though :D ) on the mountians I climbed, so I'm looking around at what I can do about it.

 

I've already removed my lower valance off the bumper a long time ago because it wouldn't even clear parking stall blocks.

 

I'd like to get something that won't change any of the maintence aspects too much on the vehicle if I had to remove the tranny or engine or something, I've heard of that happening to a few guys at my work. (Guy needed is tranny out, tranny guy said the lift he had done would make it a job from hell.)

 

I wanna keep my tow hooks and all that stuff I'm not sure if a body lift would affect things like that, as I am quite new to this stuff!

I would prefer something that won't beat on my suspension.

 

I don't mind cost, as long as its quality.

 

Pros and Cons of what you suggest a must Thanks!

 

 

PLEASE don't tell me to buy a 4wd, I do not need one!

 

Thanks in advance for any input that you guys have for me!

 

BTW guys I have a:

2007 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd Reg Cab/Box, 4.8 auto NBS

Posted

Just buy a 6" suspension lift and some 35" tires. That will give you plent of clearance, and the best thing is with the 2wd you dont need the diff drop bracket and engineering involved with that so the lift is alot cheaper than the 4wd.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUSPENSION-...sQ5fAccessories

 

Might even be able to do better than that if you look harder i duno but 1000 for suspension lift is a good price.

Posted

 

 

That CST would work but def sux because your only getting 4.5 inches FRONT lift for 900 bucks. Still need rear blocks ubolts and rear shocks. You will be way over the 1000 mark of the zone kit and have less lift.

 

CST makes good 4wd lift but a spindle lift is a simple lift, the zone is just fine.

 

 

Ok so if I use the CST what kind of rear block would I need the site doesn't really tell me it gives me a few options.

 

And what is zone? Is this a different brand? I'm quite new to this lifting but I'm going to do it I've decided, would "zone" affect the maintence on my vehicle? Or beat my suspension?

 

Sorry if I sound like a dumbass :thumbs:

Posted

without a doubt id go with that 4.5" CST lift for the 2wd GMT900 trucks.

 

whats one of the huge benefits over a generic 6" suspension lift? hows 3.5" of increased front ground clearance sound? The kit comes with rear blocks/ubolts already... just buy shocks of your choice. How about this idea.... get the Bilstein leveling struts and turn the kit into a 5.5" lift by using them instead of the 1" CST spacer; then get matching 5100s for the rear.

 

or if you dont want to buy the 5100s, for an extra $60 you can turn that 4.5" kit into a 5.5" kit. Buy the 2" RC spacer and use that instead of the CST 1" spacer for the coil body.

 

the kit is also a breeze to install.... no subframes or anything to deal with.

 

seriously- i dont see any negative to this kit.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...