Jump to content

Condesation In Cab


Recommended Posts

Posted

I did a search, couldn't find anything.

 

This is my first winter with the new truck. It's a 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended cab standard box. I love the truck but now the cold is here I find I am getting condesation inside the truck...now I know fog is normal, but it doesn't go away. And it's very very moist. I've even tried drying the windows with a towel and it still comes back. The front windows aren't so bad, eventually the air gets rid of the majority of it (though I still have to occasionaly wipe the window down with a towel) but the back window, and the side back windows are just perma foggy/moist.

 

I never had this problem with any other vehicle I've driven, fog when I start, but it all goes away after 30 min or so. Not with the Sierra! It's extremely frustrating.

 

My dad seems to think it means there is a problem with my trucks seal. I don't know if anyone noticed, but on the back of the cab on the sides of the back window there are two little strips of weatherstripping. I had one of them disappear. I did go a few months before I got it replaced by the dealer (I didn't notice it was gone) now it was warm while it wasn't there but it did rain a lot, could this be another part of the problem?

Posted

Mine is a 2010 too and I have not noticed any interior moisture. Even with past vehicles, I have only had interior moisture if I forgot and had left a window cracked on a cold night. Let the dealer deal with it.

Posted

make sure you have no water leaking into the cab. Check all the floors, front and rear, behind seat etc.. Also the headliner. Sometimes if you have water leaking into the cab it will result in all the moisture you are refering to. Is it garaged?

Posted
Agreed. Your truck is filling up with water and the water is not evaporating.

 

Get to the dealer right away.

 

 

x2 I had a buddy whos AC drain line came lose on his yota and the water dripping into the vehicle from that cause the same issue you are referring too. You have water getting in from somewhere, either that or you are breathing too hard.

Posted

Check under your carpets in front. Mine had a seam leak and the jute pad was getting soaked...

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi i had the same problem in my 2010 sierra and it seems that it is the trap for the recirculating air from outside that is stuck in the closed position, what they did at the dealer is open the trap for now and disconnect the motor for that door the next step when the engineers from GMC has the answer is to do a software update on the heating sytem

For now after a weekend i do not have any fog in the windows anymore so it seems that it is working

There will probably be a recall or something on this

 

Hope it helps

Posted
Try running the AC on warm or the defrost

 

 

The A/C wont come on in the new trucks if the temp outside is below freezing. I hate that feature on my 2011. It tends to fog up more then normal. There is no leaks, but any snow that comes in from your boots causes this...

Posted

You need to make sure your heater is not stuck on recirculate. It really needs to be on fresh air inlet to keep moisture from building up inside. A little birdie tells me there is a technical review of 10s and 11s having a problem sticking on recirc and causing massive condensation problems. They dont have a repair yet just to physically move the door from recirc and not switch to it again

Posted

water leak for sure, check behind the passenger side front carpet, peel it back. my '08 all terrain was leaking there and the passenger from door seal. it got fixed but it was a nightmare for a while before they figured it out.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 411 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...