Jump to content

How To Remove Pins From Wiring Plugs

tsl_man

By tsl_man
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

tsl_man New Member

tsl_man

Posted
Posted

I need to remove a few pins on the throttle body plug on a 2003 chevy silverado 5.3 2wd. Where can I get the correct tool to do this. I am having the annoying reduced engine power and have a loose connection in there. The throttle body has male pins and the plug has female pins, and the female side have opened up and not making good connection so I want to remove them and tighten them up and then reinsert. The wires are not broken like others have found on theirs, mine are just loose fitting i suspect.

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

there are several tools for this and im not sure you need to do this anyways,you need to perform a terminal drag test with an identical male terminal ,if a gmtech here wants to look it up for you ,great ,then you need to go get one from a dealer which Will take along time due to the enormous amount of terminals they have. if the retension tab looks like the others ,then they are fine.

 

get the code diagnosed properly and let someone else do it ,spend money wisely

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Donstar
      Navigating senior years.

      By Donstar · Posted

      Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Another JR
      Trailer TPS Sensor Question Rim Size

      By Another JR · Posted

      Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      This is going to take allot of Assembly    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...