Jump to content

87 Silverado Questions


Recommended Posts

Posted

i am in need of a work/hunting truck and came across. an 87 4x4 short bed..it appears to be in pretty good shape...however their is some rust. He is wanting 2000.00

 

one of the cross members that mount to the bed which connects to the frame is rusted into two.

 

The frame looks like it has some rust as well.

 

What i am asking is how bad is it to do some frame repair..i have access to a mig and tig welder as well as torches etc..

 

SHOULD I JUST PASS ON IT?

Posted

Look at the passenger side where the rear shock stud goes through the frame, they were good for cracking the frame there. That or my family was just excessively hard on our trucks.

 

I would want him to come down on the price a good bit too

Posted

Look at where the steering box bolts on also,they were good for cracking there as well.

Posted

If that cross members rusted hate to see the fuel lines/etc.But if you can get it for 500 then take it

Posted

see thats the thing...the truck looks good..just the frame that looks a bit ruff..and their are a few small spots under the doors..

 

he claims it was mechanically sound and he has reciepts for what he has done..he has been the owner for 15 years.

 

he was very honest about al the rust spots..first thing he tod me acutally..

 

any other things to look for?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  
    • Move further away.   Benefit of living out - none of our cars get short cycled, plenty of warm up time.   Curious how much time/temperature it takes to drive moisture/condensation out of the engine?
    • Switch a a 100% synthetic trans fluid, Amsoil works for me.
    • First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads...   My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling."   Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded.    I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it.    I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading.    Thanks!      
    • I'm at 105,000 miles on my baby Duramax. No issues yet. I hit 31 mpg's traveling through hilly terrain to a project in Colorado. I will buy another 3.0. I'm not concerned.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...