Jump to content

Retractable Vs Trifold


Recommended Posts

Posted

biggest difference i think would be price. i plan to buy a retractable when i get some extra cash

Posted

my retractable cover i lose 6-8 (not sure the exact measurement) inches at the top of the bed at all times since this is where the cover rolls into- i dont really notice it with the 8 foot bed though. the spray in liner could be an issue since the whole cover is under the rail and the liner may affect how the tracks attach to the sides of the bed.

Posted

Yea, I've been thinking about a tonneau cover, too. I did some research and the price is the most noticeable difference. The least expensive retractable is around $600 and is made by Peragon. But after I read this:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=Peragon

 

So I guess you get what you pay for... so plan on spending more than $800 for a good retractable tonneau cover.

 

I really don't like tri-fold covers. They look odd... they sit on top of the bed rails. I like to see a cover sit flush like part of the truck, not something you just put on top of the bed rails. IMHO

 

But if you really want the convenience of a tri-fold, Id look into the Bakflip cover. It is probably the best tri-fold cover on the market. But at that price its really a toss up between a good retractable cover.

Posted

Good points. I like the flush look too. Are the back flips stronger? I like the idea you can stand on them? The retrac sounds like has 200lb limit and say they don't reccomend standing on it.

 

I had a flush tool box on my last truck and I loved that look. With the shortened bed size on these new crewcabs, I havn't found a flush one that will fit. The foot print in front of the rear wheel well is just too small to be of much usable value even if there was one and that got me thinking about the full cover.

 

I like the idea of covering the whole thing. I can keep more stuff back there like the kids sport bags etc that usually live in the cab.

 

I hope I didn't mess up getting a (over the rail) spray in already...

Posted

I don't think you'll have a problem with any covers by getting the liner sprayed over-the-rail already. A lot of people have both retractables and tri-folds with the plastic bed rail covers with no problems which would be the same as getting a spray-in liner over the rails.

 

The worst case is that you might have to do some minor trimming at the corners and remove a little of the liner but it should be minimal. Most covers are designed with liners (both under and over the rails) in mind.

Posted

the one i have is a pace edwards and its been flawless- its never been in a garage either and its been on there since i bought it (was already on there when i bought the truck). its also aluminum- so unlike a soft cover you cant just knife through it. it also locks closed and closes every foot or so so you can close it in stages (say you have something in there thats only above the rails at the bottom of the bed- you can still close and lock 90% of the cover). with the pop lock on the tailgate the bed is a fully locked trunk.

Posted

That looks nice. Hard to tell from the pic , but it looks flush with the rails , is it?

 

Can you stand on it if you had to and did you consider the retractable?

Posted

It does sit flush...gives it a clean look. They say you can stand on it and use it like a scaffold, but I've never tried that yet. It is sturdy enough I believe. Combined with the aftermarket locking tailgate latch it's like an unpenetrable fortress! I almost purchased the retractable Rollbak, I waffled back and forth a long time before deciding, but ultimately chose the Bakflip because of cost and the fact that the Bakflip doubles as a headache-rack when fully open.

 

Have you seen their website yet?

http://www.bakfliptonneaucover.com/bakflip_g2

Posted

I had not seen THEIR website. Thanks. THe install video was great. I went from thinking that was a job beyond me to looks like a piece of cake. No drilling etc. THe guys funny when he gives his 2 thumbs up after he makes a tailgating bench...

Posted
look into extang solid fold. it doesn't sit flush, but is more secure than the back flip and can be found onlin for $619 shipped.

 

I have a solid fold on my truck and have been quite happy with it. Good and secure, and it's easy off and back on when I'm moving bulky items.

Posted
Did someone mention Bakflip?? Love mine!

 

Looks really good!!! The more I see the Bakflip, the more Im leaning towards buying one. lol It's very similar to what you see on Avalanche... I really like the stock appearance, something that looks like it belongs on there. I bet it will really look sharp on a black truck, too! Anyone have pictures of a black GM-900 with the Bakflip?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
    • It is 4wd. shop told me it is the slip yoke. But not sure.
    • No, I did not tune out vvt. From what I read it should still be able to run without it, it'll just lose some torque/power.    I can see how that would make it not run correctly, but why would that cause the faulty MAF readings?   EDIT: I just ran a quick test and checked, and as I expected, the computer sees that the VVT cam phaser solenoid is not present, and throws a code for it, and does not try to change the cam angle at all. Commanded position just remains at zero, 100% of the time. This makes me think that the VVT is most likely not the cause of the problem though if anyone has a different/better explanation, I'm all ears.   UPDATE: I was able to find that my scan tool does indeed support reading the frequency (hz) off of the MAF (I thought it wasn't supported but turns out I just didn't know where to look for it). I noticed that regardless of engine state it always however this Is not what I observed with my multimeter. Like I said before, the MAF seems to put out a normal signal during cranking and then the signal drops to a very erratic reading once the engine is running. It seems from what my scan tool is telling me that the ECM is not recognizing this at all, and just reads 0 Hz 100% of the time. This pushes me towards the the PCM itself is faulty. I I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle, which I may try to connect and program (it's only ~50 bucks to get the software for a one-time programming)
    • Did you tune out the VVT?  07-09 they did not have VVT.  2010-2013 they did.      If you haven't tuned it, its trying to adjust cam timing.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...