Jump to content

08 Silverado Stereo Installation Problems.


FreckyB

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently purchased an 08 Silverado LT Z71 Crew Cab without the Bose system in it and am absolutely loving it except for the fact that the stereo is severely lacking on the low end of the scale. I was hoping to be able to just keep the stock head unit for the time being until I can scrape together enough pennies to buy a touchscreen nav head unit for it. Now this is where I'm having problems I bought a line output converter so I have RCA inputs for my amp except I cannot find a wiring diagram for my trucks stereo and I really don't want to make a mistake while wiring the converter.

 

I have installed a fair amount of car stereo systems in vehicles before but have never had to use a stock head unit before so this is a little new to me. I feel comfortable doing it but could definately use some help when it comes to wiring this thing.

 

Here are some pictures of both the wires coming out of my head unit as well as the wires coming out of the converter.

 

2011-01-29135736.jpg

 

2011-01-29135711.jpg

 

So if anyone has experience using one of these converters or even has just worked on the stereo in a similiar struck I could definately use any advice or assistance you can share. I am sure I could figure it out but I am still at that stage where I amm terrified to screw up something while working on my new toy : D

 

Thanks for any advice you guys can offer me. :lol:

Posted

If you used a PAC AOEM-GM1416 , it connects to the truck by a set of piggy back wires with connectors that fit the truck no cutting is required at all. One end connects to the radio and the other to the set of wires in the truck dash... then on the module there is a set of rca line outs to use for a aftermarket amp or sub...

 

PAC website

Posted
If you used a PAC AOEM-GM1416 , it connects to the truck by a set of piggy back wires with connectors that fit the truck no cutting is required at all. One end connects to the radio and the other to the set of wires in the truck dash... then on the module there is a set of rca line outs to use for a aftermarket amp or sub...

 

PAC website

 

+1 here. Be advised that when you amplify the factory radio, the chimes and blinkers will be amplified as well and will literally blast you out of the truck. Before I changed the head unit I added an amp to the factory radio and ended up splitting the signal from the rear channel to keep my eardrums from exploding when I put on my turn signals. There is no fix for this that i know of while using the factory head unit.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...