Jump to content

2011 Speaker Brackets

Bytor62

By Bytor62
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

Bytor62 Enthusiast

Bytor62

Posted
Posted

I am looking to replace my stock non-Bose speakers with Polk MM651's in the front and rear. Crutchfield says that speaker brackets are required for both. I have searched on here with no luck to see if this is true or are they drop-in replacements. I have seen a lot of people are replacing their speakers but no info on the brackets. If they do need brackets I will go ahead and make some out of MDF, but wanted to ask before ordering the speakers. Thanks.

Superperv23 Enthusiast

Superperv23

Posted
Posted

You do need adapters.

 

Have you gone the MDF route before? I wouldn't unless you live in a nice dry climate, I have seen lots of expensive speakers destroyed because were unwilling to just use the plastic adapters and install them properly so they don't rattle.

Bytor62 Enthusiast

Bytor62

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have had success with MDF before. Are there off the shelf brackets that you can buy? I don't see brackets by themselves listed at Crutchfield.

Superperv23 Enthusiast

Superperv23

Posted
Posted

Ones made buy Scosche @ crutchfield they list them as impala brackets. If you go that way it doesn't hurt to run a bead of silicone on the back edge and let it dry before you install them, it will just eliminate the plastic rattling on the metal.

 

if you do the mdf make sure you coat them in something like varnish so they do not absorb water, lots of people never bother and those are the ones that run into problems.

Bytor62 Enthusiast

Bytor62

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info. Got the number from Crutchfield and found them at Best Buy for $5 cheaper and free shipping. Think I will go that route. Good idea about the silicone, will do that. Now I have to find the speaker harness to see if that is worth it.

mhenshaw Senior Enthusiast

mhenshaw

Posted
Posted

x2 on putting something in-between the plastic bracket and the metal door frame.

 

I put dynomat under my brackets to stop the rattling. Also add self tapping screws to the side of the brackets. One screw in the top is not enough IMO.

brypink Enthusiast

brypink

Posted
Posted

I'm curious...what speaker adapters do we need for our trucks? I haven't broke into my truck yet, but I'm pretty damn sure at least in my '10 it calls for a 6.5". I'm curious what speaker adapter you would need to take one 6.5" out and replace it with another 6.5".

 

I've used mdf rings numerous times without any incidents.

Superperv23 Enthusiast

Superperv23

Posted
Posted
I'm curious...what speaker adapters do we need for our trucks? I haven't broke into my truck yet, but I'm pretty damn sure at least in my '10 it calls for a 6.5". I'm curious what speaker adapter you would need to take one 6.5" out and replace it with another 6.5".

 

I've used mdf rings numerous times without any incidents.

 

Scosche SAGMHR634

isaidme Enthusiast

isaidme

Posted
Posted

If your going to buy some lower end coaxles to replace your stock ones then the plastic ones thru crutchfield are fine. If you going to buy a high end set and put some serious power to them then you should make some using mdf. Mdf is really the way to go as long as you use several coats of primer to seal up the wood.

dlewis1111 Senior Enthusiast

dlewis1111

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the info. Got the number from Crutchfield and found them at Best Buy for $5 cheaper and free shipping. Think I will go that route. Good idea about the silicone, will do that. Now I have to find the speaker harness to see if that is worth it.

 

If you order the speakers from Crutchfield they send all that stuff for free. And they will match a competitor's price too. Seems like you are going through a lot of effort to get the stuff you need when it's available from one source that knows exactly what you need to put those new speakers in.

dlewis1111 Senior Enthusiast

dlewis1111

Posted
Posted
I'm curious...what speaker adapters do we need for our trucks? I haven't broke into my truck yet, but I'm pretty damn sure at least in my '10 it calls for a 6.5". I'm curious what speaker adapter you would need to take one 6.5" out and replace it with another 6.5".

 

I've used mdf rings numerous times without any incidents.

 

The factory speakers are 6.5, but they are shaped "funny" and a replacement won't just drop in. FYI, with just a little trimwork, 6x9's fit almost perfectly in the front and rear.

Bytor62 Enthusiast

Bytor62

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thanks for the info. Got the number from Crutchfield and found them at Best Buy for $5 cheaper and free shipping. Think I will go that route. Good idea about the silicone, will do that. Now I have to find the speaker harness to see if that is worth it.

 

If you order the speakers from Crutchfield they send all that stuff for free. And they will match a competitor's price too. Seems like you are going through a lot of effort to get the stuff you need when it's available from one source that knows exactly what you need to put those new speakers in.

 

 

That is true, however the Crutchfield price is $189 per pair. I ordered 2 pair for $197 shipped and Crutchfield wouldn't price match. Well worth the hassle.

SparkySparks Enthusiast

SparkySparks

Posted
Posted

So where did you order the speakers from, sounds like you got a really good deal.

 

Thanks for the info. Got the number from Crutchfield and found them at Best Buy for $5 cheaper and free shipping. Think I will go that route. Good idea about the silicone, will do that. Now I have to find the speaker harness to see if that is worth it.

 

If you order the speakers from Crutchfield they send all that stuff for free. And they will match a competitor's price too. Seems like you are going through a lot of effort to get the stuff you need when it's available from one source that knows exactly what you need to put those new speakers in.

 

 

That is true, however the Crutchfield price is $189 per pair. I ordered 2 pair for $197 shipped and Crutchfield wouldn't price match. Well worth the hassle.

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,281 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...