Jump to content

Navigation For My 2006 Silverado Z71


Recommended Posts

Posted

im lookin to get a oem navigation... i have a 2006 silverado 1500 z71 single cd player truck, what part number navigation do i need and extra parts?

Posted
im lookin to get a oem navigation... i have a 2006 silverado 1500 z71 single cd player truck, what part number navigation do i need and extra parts?

 

 

I believe most, if not all factory nav's were Bose systems. If you have the standard audio system you will probably have to add the Bose components as well as the antenna. I just took a factory Nav out my wifes '07 TrailBlazer and replaced it with a Kenwood DNX-6160. There was nothing wrong with here nav, it just was a pain to use and if my wife was on a trip she couldnt listen to CDs while using the nav. Now she has nav, bluetooth, CD/DVD, iPod and is back-up cam ready. I can also add Sirius/XM and HD radio. You will also have to pay the dealer to code the factory nav to your truck. It my cost you alot less to get an aftermarket nav. All said and done it cost me $750 for the unit dashkit, harness, antenna adapter and sterring wheel interface. Now keep in mind that is my cost at the shop. at normal retail you will be looking right $1250 for the same equipment.

Posted
im lookin to get a oem navigation... i have a 2006 silverado 1500 z71 single cd player truck, what part number navigation do i need and extra parts?

 

 

I believe most, if not all factory nav's were Bose systems. If you have the standard audio system you will probably have to add the Bose components as well as the antenna. I just took a factory Nav out my wifes '07 TrailBlazer and replaced it with a Kenwood DNX-6160. There was nothing wrong with here nav, it just was a pain to use and if my wife was on a trip she couldnt listen to CDs while using the nav. Now she has nav, bluetooth, CD/DVD, iPod and is back-up cam ready. I can also add Sirius/XM and HD radio. You will also have to pay the dealer to code the factory nav to your truck. It my cost you alot less to get an aftermarket nav. All said and done it cost me $750 for the unit dashkit, harness, antenna adapter and sterring wheel interface. Now keep in mind that is my cost at the shop. at normal retail you will be looking right $1250 for the same equipment.

 

 

 

I thought they were Dephi TNR800s?

Posted

That is all pretty much true about that the OEM NAV units.

 

I did the upgrade to my 06 long bed extended cab, with an OEM unit I bought off E-bay.

 

It was plug and play the first time I used it in that 06 long bed , but when I went to move it to another 06 truck, I did have to go to a dealer to get it unlocked not sure why it worked the first time but not the next. I had a problem there though the first dealer worked on it for about an hour and said it was not compatable on the second 06 truck, Funny thing was the first truck I had it in did not have bose the second truck did have bose, but the second dealer unlocked it in about 10 minuts, and it worked fine.

 

The main diference between bose and non bose trucks is that Bose trucks have seperate amps , where the non bose trucks have power provided strictly via the radio/head unit . This means that since the Noem NAV units are setup to work on Bose trucks only they do not put out much power so what you end up with on a non bose truck is limmited volume . Meaning on a non bose truck the max volume is only about half that of the radio you took out.

 

I was ok with the half volume range for the most part , I used it that way in that first truck for about 2 years like that. When I put it in the second 06 truck with the bose , it sounded much better have full volume range and much better speakers. .

Posted
im lookin to get a oem navigation... i have a 2006 silverado 1500 z71 single cd player truck, what part number navigation do i need and extra parts?

 

 

I believe most, if not all factory nav's were Bose systems. If you have the standard audio system you will probably have to add the Bose components as well as the antenna. I just took a factory Nav out my wifes '07 TrailBlazer and replaced it with a Kenwood DNX-6160. There was nothing wrong with here nav, it just was a pain to use and if my wife was on a trip she couldnt listen to CDs while using the nav. Now she has nav, bluetooth, CD/DVD, iPod and is back-up cam ready. I can also add Sirius/XM and HD radio. You will also have to pay the dealer to code the factory nav to your truck. It my cost you alot less to get an aftermarket nav. All said and done it cost me $750 for the unit dashkit, harness, antenna adapter and sterring wheel interface. Now keep in mind that is my cost at the shop. at normal retail you will be looking right $1250 for the same equipment.

 

 

 

I thought they were Dephi TNR800s?

 

 

Well yes they are Delphi TNR's, what i was getting at is they are only packaged with the Bose sound sytstem to my knowledge and as cc1999 said above you will not get the full volume from them because the outputs are line level to work with the Bose amps. Never mind adding the GPS antenna which requires removing the whole top section of the dash. Which in its self is not to difficult, but still a pain.

 

The GM Part No. is:

GM PN:15800000

'06 GMT800 TNR

Delphi PN: 28032959

Posted

On mine, I just took the Nav antenna and put a little shipping foam around it and wedged it back up in behind the radio wherever I could find a good place out of the way, always worked fine, meaning don't really have to worry about having to pull the dash out, I had my OEM Nav unit mounted in about 10-15 minuts ready to go that first time, the second time, when I went to move it over to different truck I had the radio in and out of both trucks and swapped everything over in about 30 minuts, but then had to go find a dealer that could unlock it for me, before I could use it in the second truck. My Nav unit I believe had came out of a wrecked trailblazer originally so it always showed up as a chevy on the screen. The only draw back I had noticed that really did'nt matter to me since I normally only listen to the radio or sat radio, was the fact on these old units can't play CDs and the have the Nav disc in at the same time.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,467 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...