Jump to content

Cruise Control Help Please


Recommended Posts

Posted

i have a 1992 gmc 1500 that the cruise control quit working. no light on dash or anything.....just like it is without power. can not find a blown fuse and it worked the last time i used it. i have read that it might be the switch, but just want to troubleshoot anything else it might be before i have to figure out how to pull the steering wheel. if someone thinks that is what it is, how much trouble is pulling the wheel? it has tilt and is automatic transmission. thanks.

Posted

shouldnt have to pull the steering wheel. the cruise contol switch is only on the wiper arm. just give it a good tug and it should pop out. the hardest part is feeding the wire back up the column. i have changed mine 2 or three times on my 89.

Posted
shouldnt have to pull the steering wheel. the cruise contol switch is only on the wiper arm. just give it a good tug and it should pop out. the hardest part is feeding the wire back up the column. i have changed mine 2 or three times on my 89.

 

that sounds encouraging......and the 89 and 92 are similar? did yours just suddenly die without warning?

Posted

it is 95% chance its the blinker arm. its a fast easy fix. you can go to the junk yard and pick one up or order a brand new one. either way, easy fix.

Posted

i work at a junk yard here in northern mn. they are not identical there is very little difference. yeah mine died out of no where. used it one day and didnt have it the next.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yesterday we brought home a 6yr  old Havanese dog from a nearby SPCA.  We've had her for 24 hours and we are delighted with how well she is adjusting to her new home.  It  was a huge decision to adopt a dog at this stage in our lives but we believe we made the right choice!   it was reported that her first 6 years were ones of neglect.  I think she's already realizing her life is going to get a whole lot better...  so is ours!    
    • I thought I was building a HD 3500 srw, maybe I was lost.
    • No doubt, I definitely agree with you. However, considering the 6.2 and 3.0 have been catastrophically failing with very little miles, I figured I would put trouble free. I’m at 18,4xx and still not a single issue.  
    • It’s never dry here but it gets hot. My 4 vehicles I keep at home drive an 18 mile loop. One 6 days a week. Two about 3 days each and one once a month. Only one goes on trips about 4 times a year 1000 to 2000 miles each time. One 26 years old gets driven once a month for 22 years. One 14 years old goes 6 days a week. The other two are recent at 2 and 4 years. All are performing normal no extra service other than that would be half of recommended or severe service in the maintenance manual. No extra water or steam out the exhaust or premature plug wear. I would consider an 18 mile loop would be enough. So apparently once a month at 18 miles for 22 years has kept the collector car running well. About 45 minutes a month. 
    • It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...