Jump to content

Not Shifting Out Of 1st Code P0700


Recommended Posts

Posted

2001 Sierra 2500 HD truck 130K miles 4X4 used for plowing.

 

So a friend of mine lent me his truck. It ran good for four halls, all light stuff and the 5 th time the CEL came and gave me a P0700 code. It now clucks when I shift into drive and does not want to shift out of first.

 

It runs OK and all BUT not shift.

 

Any help would be GREAT. Thanks

Posted

p0700 is an information code stored in the engine control module. It is to let you know there is a code stored in the transmission control module. Need to check codes for the tranny.

Posted

The owner said it was the heavy duty trans and it has a 8 cyl gas motor

 

Where would I find more info on the transmission model?

 

Thanks

Which transmission is in the truck? Is the motor a diesel?

--Mike

Posted

Well truck is changing gears again and the light is off. The only thing I did is put it in 4 high and 4 low. I don't know if that did it or if would have cleared on it own?

Posted

If it's an HD, it will have the 4L80e trans unless it's the 8.1L then it could have the allison trans. Good luck

Posted

Funny cause every time i post somthing 2x everyone flips on me but. I JUST had this problem with my truck over the winter, it happens when the sensor gets wet idk its some trans control sensor your going to have someone replace it so just take it to the dealership or your favored mechanic since you already know the code it shouldnt be a problem (Also at the same time my Cam position sensor went so have them check that too)

 

-Kurt

 

P.S if you search the forum you might find my post i think i made it back in January idk if it still exists but just go have it checked out cause i did just that and its Fine Now i had the exact same problem it would not shift out of first and somtimes it wouldn't shift past third or fourth i think it may have disabled my overdrive and basicly put me in Gear 3 or tow/haul mode

Posted

The owner of the truck said he was going to have the neutral safety switch replaced. I hope to write back after he has this done. Thanks for all the help so far.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...