Factory Hu To Amp.

arctictwist · June 7, 2011

Ive been reading alot and Im still not getting whats the best way to put a small amp in for replacing the factory speakers with the factory head unit. my front drivers side speakers are both shot. So while im doing, I want to do components in the front and regular speakers in the rear powered by a four channel amp. What converter have you all found that works for you? I keep reading different things like the hiss and some other things.

aesalazar · June 7, 2011

When I was debating on whether to keep my factory HU, my researched pointed me to this which will plug into the factory harness and give me 4 RCA outs:

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-Premium-Amplifie...6641&sr=1-2

This is with a Non-Bose setup are pretty easy.

For bose, it is not so easy. Since there is external amp you will have to splice the wires as there is not plug and play device that I know off. You will have to use generic line-out converters (unless there is a way to tap the factory line level outputs somewhere). Something like this (x2):

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-35-Adjustabl...7399&sr=1-1

Definitely a bigger job but it can certainly be done.

As for front vs rear speakers, I didnt bother with the rears. I put all my money into the fronts since those are really the ones that will produce most of the sound. The rears are so buried and far removed from our ears that there isn't much point unless you are needing them for mid-bass with 6x9s or something. But a sub would be a better choice if one has the budget for it.

Ernie

gregrocks89 · June 7, 2011

i got a stinger converter but i get electrical noise through them. personally i just turn up the music and tune it out

montyss · June 7, 2011

The None Bose adapter in the post from aesalazar is not the correct one , the correct one has no A after the model # the correct one for a truck is a PAC AOEM-GM1416, the unit with the A after is for HHR's and Pontiac G6's plus some other cars.

With a slight mod to the adapters wires you can tie back into the trucks speaker lines from the external amp.

arctictwist · June 7, 2011

The None Bose adapter in the post from aesalazar is not the correct one , the correct one has no A after the model # the correct one for a truck is a PAC AOEM-GM1416, the unit with the A after is for HHR's and Pontiac G6's plus some other cars.
With a slight mod to the adapters wires you can tie back into the trucks speaker lines from the external amp.

monty, with the slight mod your talking about, you mean just so i can utilize factory wiring right?

Ive seen the hissing problem with the PAC converters on here. Someone said that if you add a resistor inbetween the unloaded lines it fixes the problem. has anyone tried this yet?

arctictwist · June 7, 2011

The None Bose adapter in the post from aesalazar is not the correct one , the correct one has no A after the model # the correct one for a truck is a PAC AOEM-GM1416, the unit with the A after is for HHR's and Pontiac G6's plus some other cars.
With a slight mod to the adapters wires you can tie back into the trucks speaker lines from the external amp.

monty, with the slight mod your talking about, you mean just so i can utilize factory wiring right?

Ive seen the hissing problem with the PAC converters on here. Someone said that if you add a resistor inbetween the unloaded lines it fixes the problem. has anyone tried this yet?

Oh and the reason im so adamant about keeping the factory unit is because of onstar and xm. ive been told that the xm is quite a hassle.

aesalazar · June 7, 2011

The None Bose adapter in the post from aesalazar is not the correct one , the correct one has no A after the model # the correct one for a truck is a PAC AOEM-GM1416, the unit with the A after is for HHR's and Pontiac G6's plus some other cars.
With a slight mod to the adapters wires you can tie back into the trucks speaker lines from the external amp.

Thanks for pointing it out monty. I fixed the link to the right one.

Ernie

ChevyTech77 · June 7, 2011

Mine is non bose and I plan to just tie into the speaker wires near the rear seat to get my inputs to the amp to run my sub. I'm not a fan of using those PAC convertors. Seen too many issues.

montyss · June 7, 2011

Yes you retain all the factory wires no cuts or splices, if you remove the PAC harness and module everything is back to stock.

I have no hiss on my system that has a factory Nav with the Pac AOEM-GM1416 and Pioneer GM-9500F 4 channel amp, chimes , On Star is all as it was before the Nav upgrade sound wise.

The None Bose adapter in the post from aesalazar is not the correct one , the correct one has no A after the model # the correct one for a truck is a PAC AOEM-GM1416, the unit with the A after is for HHR's and Pontiac G6's plus some other cars.
With a slight mod to the adapters wires you can tie back into the trucks speaker lines from the external amp.

monty, with the slight mod your talking about, you mean just so i can utilize factory wiring right?

Ive seen the hissing problem with the PAC converters on here. Someone said that if you add a resistor inbetween the unloaded lines it fixes the problem. has anyone tried this yet?

montyss · June 7, 2011

Here are a couple pic's of the PAC harness after the cuts , if I can get them to post....

the rca's go to the amp from the PAC module and the 4 sets of cut wire are where the sound ties back into the PAC harness from the sound out on the amp

arctictwist · June 9, 2011

Here are a couple pic's of the PAC harness after the cuts , if I can get them to post....
the rca's go to the amp from the PAC module and the 4 sets of cut wire are where the sound ties back into the PAC harness from the sound out on the amp

Thanks for the great detail!

Doug_Scott · June 10, 2011

Oh and the reason im so adamant about keeping the factory unit is because of onstar and xm. ive been told that the xm is quite a hassle.

I wanted to keep the factory head unit for some other reasons, I don't have XM. I did not want extra adaptors to keep OnStar, steering wheel controls, or factory chimes. Not sure how common stolen stereos are these days, but if the theif looks in and sees the base stereo in the truck, and he is after stereos, he will pass on mine. The head unit in my truck is the only stock component in the sound system. Every thing else is hidden from view.

fraiolib · June 12, 2011

Oh and the reason im so adamant about keeping the factory unit is because of onstar and xm. ive been told that the xm is quite a hassle.

I wanted to keep the factory head unit for some other reasons, I don't have XM. I did not want extra adaptors to keep OnStar, steering wheel controls, or factory chimes. Not sure how common stolen stereos are these days, but if the theif looks in and sees the base stereo in the truck, and he is after stereos, he will pass on mine. The head unit in my truck is the only stock component in the sound system. Every thing else is hidden from view.

i like it, im doing the same thing

arctictwist · July 1, 2011

Oh and the reason im so adamant about keeping the factory unit is because of onstar and xm. ive been told that the xm is quite a hassle.

I wanted to keep the factory head unit for some other reasons, I don't have XM. I did not want extra adaptors to keep OnStar, steering wheel controls, or factory chimes. Not sure how common stolen stereos are these days, but if the theif looks in and sees the base stereo in the truck, and he is after stereos, he will pass on mine. The head unit in my truck is the only stock component in the sound system. Every thing else is hidden from view.

i like it, im doing the same thing

Ive been reading about speaker level inputs. Didnt know these existed now. They did not way back when i was big into audio lol. or atleast that i knew of. So im going that route first to see how it goes.