Jump to content

Low Oil Light


Recommended Posts

Posted

At what point should the low oil light come on? I just recently had an issue were my truck while driving on the highway developed a loud tapping noise. I managed to get the truck pulled over. It turns out my truck was 3.5 qts low on oil. I never had a low oil light come on or check engine light, the only warning I had was my truck making the tapping noise.

 

Nick

Posted

Apparently you're not in the habit of checking your oil. Never rely on an idiot light

Posted
Apparently you're not in the habit of checking your oil. Never rely on an idiot light

 

I generally do check my oil level. This was the first time I hadn't checked my oil in the time period between oil changes.

 

Nick

Posted

How long ago did you change your oil? Is the filter tight? Is the drain plug tight? You know the answer to the question "when should the oil light come on"

 

Uhhh never?

Posted
How long ago did you change your oil? Is the filter tight? Is the drain plug tight? You know the answer to the question "when should the oil light come on"

 

Uhhh never?

 

6,000 mi, I was at 40% on the oil life monitor, the drain plug and filter were tight. I know it should never come on, but at what point is the sensor triggered?

Posted
How long ago did you change your oil? Is the filter tight? Is the drain plug tight? You know the answer to the question "when should the oil light come on"

 

Uhhh never?

 

6,000 mi, I was at 40% on the oil life monitor, the drain plug and filter were tight. I know it should never come on, but at what point is the sensor triggered?

 

 

 

That sucks man, thats why I hate those oil life monitors, 6000miles is not 40% oil life. I think that most come on when/should come on when the oil is below the dispstick. Hope theres no permanent damage.

Posted
How long ago did you change your oil? Is the filter tight? Is the drain plug tight? You know the answer to the question "when should the oil light come on"

 

Uhhh never?

 

6,000 mi, I was at 40% on the oil life monitor, the drain plug and filter were tight. I know it should never come on, but at what point is the sensor triggered?

 

 

 

That sucks man, thats why I hate those oil life monitors, 6000miles is not 40% oil life. I think that most come on when/should come on when the oil is below the dispstick. Hope theres no permanent damage.

 

 

The oil level was not registering on the dip-stick. I avoid using the oil life monitor and only use synthetic in my truck.

Posted

I had the "Low Oil" light come on my '05 2500HD and it was about 1 qt. below the lowest 'add' mark. The light is set to come on before you do any damage. If you checked the oil level immediately after you pulled over it reads even lower than actual due to oil adhering to parts and not making it's way back to the pan yet. I find you need to let it sit at least 20 minutes to get a reasonably accurate oil level reading (even after adding new oil).

 

Many here have had the low oil level light come on and all of us were indeed a little low, but no damage was done.

 

DEWFPO

Posted
How long ago did you change your oil? Is the filter tight? Is the drain plug tight? You know the answer to the question "when should the oil light come on"

 

Uhhh never?

 

6,000 mi, I was at 40% on the oil life monitor, the drain plug and filter were tight. I know it should never come on, but at what point is the sensor triggered?

 

 

 

That sucks man, thats why I hate those oil life monitors, 6000miles is not 40% oil life. I think that most come on when/should come on when the oil is below the dispstick. Hope theres no permanent damage.

 

 

 

says who? Jiffy Lube? Your friendly bend you over and rip you off every 3,000 miles for oil Dealership?

 

with today's oil and motors 6,000 miles could very well be 40%, I'm near 8,000 (on synthetic) and mine is at 22%, my oil is still a nice carmel color, I will be changing it tomorrow because 7 - 8k is my limit, but in all the oil analysis I have had done on several cars over the past 6 years 8K - 10K or comes back just fine (on synthetic).

 

 

All depends on the type of driving you do, where you live, and the type of oil you use.. But with synthetic 10,000 is doable (and the OP didn't state what type of oil he uses)

Posted
How long ago did you change your oil? Is the filter tight? Is the drain plug tight? You know the answer to the question "when should the oil light come on"

 

Uhhh never?

 

6,000 mi, I was at 40% on the oil life monitor, the drain plug and filter were tight. I know it should never come on, but at what point is the sensor triggered?

 

 

 

That sucks man, thats why I hate those oil life monitors, 6000miles is not 40% oil life. I think that most come on when/should come on when the oil is below the dispstick. Hope theres no permanent damage.

 

 

 

says who? Jiffy Lube? Your friendly bend you over and rip you off every 3,000 miles for oil Dealership?

 

with today's oil and motors 6,000 miles could very well be 40%, I'm near 8,000 (on synthetic) and mine is at 22%, my oil is still a nice carmel color, I will be changing it tomorrow because 7 - 8k is my limit, but in all the oil analysis I have had done on several cars over the past 6 years 8K - 10K or comes back just fine (on synthetic).

 

 

All depends on the type of driving you do, where you live, and the type of oil you use.. But with synthetic 10,000 is doable (and the OP didn't state what type of oil he uses)

 

 

I run Mobil 1 Synthetic and a Delco filter. Most of the miles between oil changes have been highway trips with one trip to Florida and back to NJ.

Posted
How long ago did you change your oil? Is the filter tight? Is the drain plug tight? You know the answer to the question "when should the oil light come on"

 

Uhhh never?

 

6,000 mi, I was at 40% on the oil life monitor, the drain plug and filter were tight. I know it should never come on, but at what point is the sensor triggered?

 

 

 

That sucks man, thats why I hate those oil life monitors, 6000miles is not 40% oil life. I think that most come on when/should come on when the oil is below the dispstick. Hope theres no permanent damage.

 

 

 

says who? Jiffy Lube? Your friendly bend you over and rip you off every 3,000 miles for oil Dealership?

 

with today's oil and motors 6,000 miles could very well be 40%, I'm near 8,000 (on synthetic) and mine is at 22%, my oil is still a nice carmel color, I will be changing it tomorrow because 7 - 8k is my limit, but in all the oil analysis I have had done on several cars over the past 6 years 8K - 10K or comes back just fine (on synthetic).

 

 

All depends on the type of driving you do, where you live, and the type of oil you use.. But with synthetic 10,000 is doable (and the OP didn't state what type of oil he uses)

 

 

I run Mobil 1 Synthetic and a Delco filter. Most of the miles between oil changes have been highway trips with one trip to Florida and back to NJ.

 

 

 

I'd say you are about right on the 6,000:40% mark based on how my moms 2003 Caddy Deville and My 2010 Avalanche both calculate on synthetic oil.. like I said I usually see 8k - 10k without issues and I have my oil analyzed at least once a year.

 

as for the oil loss thing, I wonder if you fall under that whole "oil consumption" debate going on.

Posted
How long ago did you change your oil? Is the filter tight? Is the drain plug tight? You know the answer to the question "when should the oil light come on"

 

Uhhh never?

 

6,000 mi, I was at 40% on the oil life monitor, the drain plug and filter were tight. I know it should never come on, but at what point is the sensor triggered?

 

 

 

That sucks man, thats why I hate those oil life monitors, 6000miles is not 40% oil life. I think that most come on when/should come on when the oil is below the dispstick. Hope theres no permanent damage.

 

 

 

says who? Jiffy Lube? Your friendly bend you over and rip you off every 3,000 miles for oil Dealership?

 

with today's oil and motors 6,000 miles could very well be 40%, I'm near 8,000 (on synthetic) and mine is at 22%, my oil is still a nice carmel color, I will be changing it tomorrow because 7 - 8k is my limit, but in all the oil analysis I have had done on several cars over the past 6 years 8K - 10K or comes back just fine (on synthetic).

 

 

All depends on the type of driving you do, where you live, and the type of oil you use.. But with synthetic 10,000 is doable (and the OP didn't state what type of oil he uses)

 

 

I run Mobil 1 Synthetic and a Delco filter. Most of the miles between oil changes have been highway trips with one trip to Florida and back to NJ.

 

 

 

I'd say you are about right on the 6,000:40% mark based on how my moms 2003 Caddy Deville and My 2010 Avalanche both calculate on synthetic oil.. like I said I usually see 8k - 10k without issues and I have my oil analyzed at least once a year.

 

as for the oil loss thing, I wonder if you fall under that whole "oil consumption" debate going on.

 

 

 

 

I had it towed to the dealer just due to not being sure what if anything was damaged. The dealer that I know and trust looked it over and they said everything checked out ok. I am concerned that starving the engine of oil did some long term damage to the engine but only time will tell.

 

Nick

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,888
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    xdieselmechanic
    Newest Member
    xdieselmechanic
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 547 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
    • There's some truth to the above, but also, she's selling fullsize trucks and bread/butter CUV's like hotcakes, meanwhile, extracting GM's pickups from the deep discounting sales game.   GM's stock has held its own during her tenure, and the more recent buybacks are delivering cash back to investors and signal confidence in their direction forward. Even with the EV losses.   GM is an example of a modern publicly traded company. The #1 goal of any publicly traded company is to deliver the most value possible to shareholders. Despite being a car company, building the best car isn't GM's path to delivering maximum shareholder value.   McDonalds doesn't make the best burger, or the best coffee.   I've mentioned in another thread, I really don't / won't ever understand Cadillac or Buick in a modern context. Both brands are completely dead to me. I'll cede that the Escalade is a nice SUV, but the brand and nameplate mean nothing to me, and GM will never persuade me to pay north of $170k for a gussied-up Tahoe or Burb. Other people don't mind doing that and that's their purview.   The C8 shares absolutely nothing in common with any other current Chevrolet or Corvette on the market. Since its introduction 8 years ago, it's developed quite the following. It did what other Corvettes couldn't do: reduce the average age of its buyer. GM has something there, and I see them investing in the car. They'd better not mess that up.   We've successfully derailed Grumpy's thread again, but I think this one is meant to be more of a random thought thread so a little wandering is probably OK.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...