Jump to content

Did Some Towing With My 2500hd Gasser Today For The First Time


Recommended Posts

Posted

Truck is a monster in tow/haul mode for sure! It was the hottest day of the year here in Philadelphia. It was at the hottest 104 degrees outside. Ice cold in the truck! :) The truck temps never moved from 210 the entire time. The trans temps got up to 200 at one point but mostly stayed around 190 to 196 the entire time. A lot of stop and go traffic with the AC blasting no less. I only used a half tank towing but it looks like the truck was getting around 9.5 MPG. Next week I'm hauling the trailer out to Ohio so it will be a real test to see. While I did not get around to installing the rear air bags yet, After pulling the truck does not really need them but when you hit those dips in the highway it was a little bouncy. I know the air bags will cure that. Going to have them installed tomorrow before my haul to Ohio. The tow/haul mode is amazing. They really did their research and the trans worked great. It honestly took maybe a half hour of driving and the truck learned my driving ways and learned how to handle the trailer. After that she worked like she should and did a great job of it! Here are a few shots of truck and trailer.... :sigh: I love this truck!

 

5962316221_282640f20e_b.jpg

5962869712_d39a37a244_b.jpg

Posted

Nice truck and TA! For comparison, what mileage do you usually get driving w/o the trailer?

Posted

Thanks guys! I typically see around 13 to 16 MPG with the truck. But I'm mostly city driving. Never really had it on the road yet. I'm in the NE area of Philly so it's not totally city driving but not highway either. I figured it would be around 10 to 12 hauling. Heading to Ohio with the car next weekend so I'll report back my mileage for sure!

Posted

See my post under towing, but I just returned from a 2,000 mile trip pulling our camper which is around 8,000lbs loaded plus all six of us in the truck, and truck bed loaded with bikes and other gear. The Sierra performed very well!! I normally get 12 mpg when not pulling and when I am pulling the camper and on this trip I averaged 8mpg... I noticed when I was trying to maintain 70 mph, the RPMs were around 3-3.5...is this normal? I figured pulling this kind of weight at this speed the motor was working hard. When I backed her down to 65 mph, the RPMs reduced to 2.5.

 

Nice truck by the way and you get great mileage driving in Philly!

Posted

You may want to look into getting a "bubble" for the front of the trailer. That will help mileage and improve handling when pulling the trailer. There are bubbles you can get that attach to the front face of the trailer that really help the air flow around the flat face of the trailer. You can also put a big "V" on the front of trailer. Basically close in the nose of the trailer from the hitch ball to the leading edge of the actual trailer body, following the trailer frame.

Posted

I have a 2005 2500HD Crew Cab, 2WD. Pulling a 6500 lb enclosed car hauler with V-Nose. At 70 mph I get 9.5 to 10 at most. Without the trailer - it gets about 13.5 to 14 highway driving at 65-70 mph. In town, stop and go - about 11 mpg.

 

The V-Nose does "seem" to be more stable in cross winds and passing 18 wheelers etc.

 

So far - I have not seen any controlled experiments that prove either a bubble nose or V-Nose increase mileage by any significant amount. Would be great to see some properly conducted Wind Tunnel results / comparisons done by an independent third party.

 

To increase mileage - you have to reduce drag. Pulling a enclosed trailer behind a Pick-up - that would mean using a lighter trailer, that is lower in height than the typical 6' and narrower than the typical 8.5'

 

This one at least makes sense from a weight and aerodynamic perspective. Although a bit pricey.

 

http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scree...de=car_trailers

 

FWIW,

Carl B.

Posted

The reason I mentioned it was my buddy has a 05 Sierra ExtCab with a 5.3/4spd with 3.23 2wd. He purchased a 7x14 enclosed motorcycle trailer that had a flat front on it. His first trip with the trailer and with 2 Ducati race bikes on board and full pit equipment for the 2 amateur class bikes yielded him somewhere around 7-9 mpg (canadian gallon) that he found to be poor. He invested in a bubble and attached it to the front of the trailer. The following season, on the same trip to Mt Tremblant in Quebec, he got somewhere close to 12mpg. Trailer was also a lot nicer to pull, and the "tail wagging the dog" feeling was gone. The bubble was approx 18 inches deep.

Posted

Hi Doug:

It would be interesting to me - to see a picture of your friends truck/trailer ... Moving from 9 to 12 mpg is a 33% increase in fuel efficiency. Most "aero-devices" claim at most a 10% improvement.

 

I will most likely be building a custom trailer to haul my cars this comming year. I plan to get the total height of the trailer down to around 63" from the ground to the top of the trailer. {it will be a "Pop-Top" trailer - so I can pop the top up when loading/unloading} Air suspension will lower the trailer for Freeway travel as well. I only need about 55" inside the trailer for my cars. I'm still working on finding the most effective way to gain the best shape for the front of the trailer... and a bubble just may be the way to go..

 

FWIW,

Carl B.

Posted

You saying you love Tow/Haul mode has made me wonder. Did you hit many hills? I tow an 8.5x20 enclosed as well. In the WV mountains, I hate T/H. For example there is a hill I go down everyday fully loaded to around 8k. It is a 4lane highway with the speed limit 65. I'm going about 67 and at the base there is a curve that I need to slow down to 60 or so or my load will slide. It just takes a couple taps of my brake to get to the point. If I have T/H on, the thing downshifts super hard to slow it down. Super annoying.

 

Even if I let my foot off the gas to coast going down a hill, but don't hit the brake, it still thinks I want to slow down.

 

I've put 10k miles towing on it since Feb and maybe 1k have been with T/H on. How do you handle those situations?

Posted

I hate the tow / haul mode and very rarely use it. I hate the hard super high revving downshifts too. The gas engine doesn't have enough compression braking to slow my truck and 9,000 pound boat so all it does is downshift and run it at 4500 RPM.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...