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Door Speaker Cuts In And Out

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg

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Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg Enthusiast

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg

Posted
Posted

some days when i get in my truck my driver door speaker doesnt work then other days it does, what would cause this? i took apart the trim and its not getting any power to the speaker (but the back driver side door and tweeter work). i traced the wires to the plug in the fuse compartent (Dash one by the steering wheel) and it doesnt get any power there either. help please

 

- mike

mhenshaw Senior Enthusiast

mhenshaw

Posted
Posted

Its the speaker, do a search and you will see hundreds of people have had this problem.

 

I replaced all my speakers and never had a problem since.

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg Enthusiast

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm reluctant to buy a new speaker because the voltemeter said it was only putting out .02-.03 volts at the wire that plugs into the speaker,.. if it was the speaker that was bad, wouldn't the wires show 12 volts or something like that? or does it need to be plugged in to draw all 12 volts, or does it run off of .02-.03? thanks for your reply man, im pretty much an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff and how to use the search button the right way.

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

Each of the audio output channel circuits (+) and (-), at the radio and audio amplifier, if equipped, have a DC bias voltage that is one half of the battery voltage. When using a DMM, each of the audio output channel circuits will measure approximately 6.5V DC. The audio being played on the system is produced by a varying AC voltage that is centered around the DC bias voltage on the same circuit. The AC voltage is what causes the speaker cone to move and produce sound. This voltage will vary depending on what type of audio is being listened to, talk or music, and type of music, as well as the volume setting of the system. Low volume and talk settings will measure around 1V AC and less, where constant music may measure 3V AC and slightly higher.

mhenshaw Senior Enthusiast

mhenshaw

Posted
Posted
I'm reluctant to buy a new speaker because the voltemeter said it was only putting out .02-.03 volts at the wire that plugs into the speaker,.. if it was the speaker that was bad, wouldn't the wires show 12 volts or something like that? or does it need to be plugged in to draw all 12 volts, or does it run off of .02-.03? thanks for your reply man, im pretty much an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff and how to use the search button the right way.

 

Take a speaker off another door and try it on the driver side. I'm 100% positive its the speaker. GM really cheaper out on them and they cut off all the time.

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg Enthusiast

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well just wanted to let you know that you both were right. i tested the connection with the stereo cranked and on AC (i had it on DC before, stupid me) it was hitting about 1.5-2AC volts, so i then popped the passenger side speaker in and it worked!

 

thanks a lot guys, saved me some hassle. now time to search the forums for some nice speakers on a budget. :cheers:

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg Enthusiast

Ajsjdjdjfjdtgg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I shelled out the big bucks and got alpine type-r for the front speakers. Amazing. But now the back driver side doesn't work so I'm assuming replace those as well. Just keeping everyone posted

ChevyTech77 Senior Enthusiast

ChevyTech77

Posted
Posted

Oh, I had no doubt that you would find a faulty speaker but you asked for help in diagnosing it so I gave you what I know on how to diagnose it, that's all. :)

 

So, the type-r's sound good with the factory HU, eh? I'll be looking to upgrade soon as well. :pimp:

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