Jump to content

Rc Level Installed Now A Clunk


Recommended Posts

Posted

I know this has been discussed but i cannot find it. I installed the RC level kit last week, about 400 miles on it, had the front end alined immediately. Now i have a clunking noise when i turn the wheel all the way to the left without moving the truck. Can some one tell me what it is. Thanks

Posted

Finally stopped raining enough today so i could check this out. I re-tightned everything. The noise seems to be coming from the upper ball joint. It sounds more like the ball joint is too tight, and the rubber is binding when you turn it. I don;t have a torque wrench so i just tightened it. My buddy who is a mechanic said it should just tighten up till it is seated all the way. I don't know what to do now.

Posted
Finally stopped raining enough today so i could check this out. I re-tightned everything. The noise seems to be coming from the upper ball joint. It sounds more like the ball joint is too tight, and the rubber is binding when you turn it. I don;t have a torque wrench so i just tightened it. My buddy who is a mechanic said it should just tighten up till it is seated all the way. I don't know what to do now.

 

 

Tighten to 37ft/lbs and you'll be good.

Posted

will do, but how do i hold back the allen key nut while i use a torque wrench on the ball joint nut?

Posted
will do, but how do i hold back the allen key nut while i use a torque wrench on the ball joint nut?

 

 

Also check your stabilizer bar and make sure that's at 37ft/lbs also, they are finicky when it comes to torque......I used a torque wrench and a crows foot wrench to torque my ball joint, you may need to buy one. Only way to do it while holding the allen wrench.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 570 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...