Jump to content

2008 Sierra 1500 Rear Drums Replaced, Still Issues

OL_FAITHFUL

By OL_FAITHFUL
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

OL_FAITHFUL Enthusiast

OL_FAITHFUL

Posted
Posted
The rear drums started squealing on my Sierra so I took it to the dealership to have them replaced. Before having them replaced my emergency brake caught real high and there was a short distance between starting to catch and applies enough pressure for the truck not to roll, after being replaced it goes practically to the floor before tightening up and feels spongier for lack of a better word (there's a much longer distance between when I feel it start to catch and when it applies enough pressure for the truck not to roll in gear). I mentioned this to the service writer asking if they could tighten up the emerg brake, who brought the tech up that replaced the pads. The tech told me to "use the emerg brake and it will get tighter over time". He said there's an automatic ratcheting device in the drums that will tighten them up. It's been two days and I've used the emerg brake a good 30 times and no difference in pressure. I have to push it all the way to the floor for it to be able to hold keep the truck from moving in gear.

Sidebar, the brakes have a mild squeal to them at one particular point between not being applied and decent pressure, that pisses me off as well. So, my gut tells me this guy is full of it, but I thought I'd check here first. All I wanted was for my truck to be fixed right the first time.
OL_FAITHFUL Enthusiast

OL_FAITHFUL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Went out and took a look. From what I can tell, when you apply the e-brake, only one pad moves out to press against the drum. The pad on the driver's side had wear in the middle of the pad about 1/2 the total distance of the pad. Pics of the passenger pad are uploaded below. Around 1/4 of the entire pad was making contact. In my novice opinion, that's not enough and should be adjusted. Opinions?

[img]http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm192/cwatwood/2011-10-09_21-18-35_206.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm192/cwatwood/2011-10-09_21-17-21_300.jpg[/img]
scirocco New Member

scirocco

Posted
Posted
I'm not a GM tech, but these drum brakes are very often adjusted via the "star" wheel you may find at the bottom/back of the drum. Turning it will lengthen (shorten) the screw/plug at the lower joint between the shoes.

There should be a slot where you can insert a screwdriver from the back of the brakes to move the adjuster. You want to open the shoes up so that the drum lightly catches/scrapes on them, and then back down just a tiny bit until they don't touch.
00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted
There is an automatic tensioner built into your brakes. It's silver thing just under the wheel cylinder & spring (on top), however using the brake isn't going to adjust the brakes. The adjusters are designed to adjust as you back up & then brake. You can also use a screwdriver through the opening on the inboard side of the wheel assembly. There should be a little rubber piece that keeps it covered that you pull out. On mine I just make it a point to (once in a while) back up & sharply apply brakes (5mph or so) to keep rears adjusted. I'd try one of those, then if no luck take it back to the repair center.
Stevens03 Senior Enthusiast

Stevens03

Posted
Posted
As mentioned, you need to make several stops from a backwards movement to have the self adjusters... adjust. Just applying the e-brake won't do it.
OL_FAITHFUL Enthusiast

OL_FAITHFUL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So, is the only adjustment the upper "automatic tensioner", or is there a lower one as well. From my pic, it looks like the uppers could use some extra tension, but looks to me like the area that needs the most adjustment is on the bottom of the pads.
Stevens03 Senior Enthusiast

Stevens03

Posted
Posted
It's been a few years since I've been in there but I believe the only tensioner will be on the top or bottom. There isn't two places to adjust. You can assist manually if you like with a flat bladed screw driver. Just don't make them to tight that they drag. There use to be a hole in the back of the plate you could reach in with a screw driver to adjust them.

But... if you just go out and make say.. 5-6 backups in a parking lot braking somewhat hard, they should adjust themselves.
HawkScot Enthusiast

HawkScot

Posted
Posted
The adjustment is on the bottom, it should adjust automatic with the braking action when backing up. The top has the wheel cylinder and has no adjustment. Neither of these are the emergency brake per se. It is a separate cable that pulls the brake linkage so the brake lining moves against the drum. Make sure your regular brakes are adjusted correctly first, then you may need to adjust emergency brake cable.
00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted
[quote name='Hawkeye-08' post='1209065' date='Oct 10 2011, 05:10 PM']The adjustment is on the bottom, it should adjust automatic with the braking action when backing up. The top has the wheel cylinder and has no adjustment. Neither of these are the emergency brake per se. It is a separate cable that pulls the brake linkage so the brake lining moves against the drum. Make sure your regular brakes are adjusted correctly first, then you may need to adjust emergency brake cable.[/quote]


No disrespect but the adjuster is indeed on top, under the wheel cylinder & spring. I adjusted the OPs original picture showing where the adjuster is located.
HawkScot Enthusiast

HawkScot

Posted
Posted
No problem, I saw the linkages on the bottom and it appeared the same as older ones I have worked on... I see the star wheel now that you pointed it out. Apologies to earlier poster that also said it is on top.

Can I quit for today now? I learned something.
00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted
:)
I remember when I was working on mine a couple a years ago & that stupid adjuster kept falling out of place just as I would get it all back together. Then I ended up getting a defective set of shoes so I got to do the whole mess all over again. The worst was the parking brake cable connection... :mad:
OL_FAITHFUL Enthusiast

OL_FAITHFUL

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I did the ol' back up @ 5-10 mph and stand on the brakes maneuver the other day with no avail. Still feels like I'm not getting much response from back there and the e-brake is not near as stiff as last Saturday when I took it in for service. In theory, the e-brake should be tighter with new, thicker pads. Guess I'll take it back to them this Sat. morning...
00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted
Did you try adjusting brakes from the outside? Also while it was apart did you take a good look at adjuster to make sure it can adjust itself? They will get full of crud/dust build up & possibly get hung up. When I did my brake job the adjusters weren't stuck but definitely weren't spinning freely either. After I cleaned them they adjusted just fine.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,725
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Griffin Donovan
    Newest Member
    Griffin Donovan
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 808 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      Anyone had to replace their Onstar module a.k.a. Telematics unit?

      By davester · Posted

      Hasn't come up in the 3 gm forums I follow. And only gm knows the frequency of failure of that part. LMG, you want a recall so it's replaced for free...
    • newdude
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By newdude · Posted

      You need a better code reader/scanner.  You are missing codes.  Did the dealer give you a copy of the SAVI scan from that visit?     If the fluid hasn't been changed, change it.  Shudder will likely go away.  
    • newdude
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By newdude · Posted

      TLDR to my other post...   Hard. Pass.  Too many what ifs.     Are you set on a 3.0 Duramax?  Have you considered anything not GM just in case?  If you don't have to have a pickup, lots of other options for $27,000 out there.   
    • newdude
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By newdude · Posted

      I see some red flags.   - No mention in the Carfax if the oil pump belt was changed.  LM2s had a 150,000mi service interval, and its got 164,245mi on it.  So right out the gate it needs about $3000-3500 for that to be done before driving it another 150,000mi.  Belt is at the rear of the engine.     - If something happens to the transmission valve body, the special coverage is expired by mileage.  That will likely be an out of pocket expense, with zero or near zero GM participation if something happened even though its in by time.   - 2020 LM2s seem to need timing chains after 80,000mi at some point.  They fixed this end of 2020/starting 2021 model year engines.  They will usually set a P0016 I think?  There is another $8000-10,000 if it needs a chain.  The main chain is at the back, secondary at the front so the pump belt would be done at the same time if it needed chains.     - Long oil change intervals.  7,000-8,000mi on average, probably close to 0% or perhaps to or beyond 0% on the OLM.  Lots of them not at the dealer which makes me wonder how much of the oil ran through that truck was the proper Dexos D rated 0w20 oil and not just gas engine 0w20, which is not the same at all.     - Long fuel filter changes, again likely taking the fuel filter life to 0% or more.  First one went 28,603, second was done 43,094 miles later at 71,697, from there another 46,452mi to 118,149mi, and then the most recent one 37,026mi later at 155,175mi.  So counting its original fuel filter, its had only 4 fuel filters on it.  No bueno IMO.         Good news?    - It has had only two warranty trips to the dealer.  The first free service (end of December 2020 on the Carfax), and the transmission reprogram recall (end of August 2025 on the Carfax).     - Truck did a LOT of moving, so that might explain the lack of emissions related repairs like bad NOX sensors, bad exhaust temp sensors, bad glow plugs, etc.         The "emissions system checked" could just be how something was flagged for Carfax.  GM dealers have to do SAVI reports for warranty repair orders so they scan the truck.  So its possible that is there for that?  
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you, @Z45!   NOTE - No all repair shop/Dealers reports to Carfax   That is my main concern.  The CARFAX looks way too clean for a 6 year old anything with 164,245 miles.  Even something known for reliability (like many Toyotas) typically has a lot more replaced, like a Nav screen, interior trim, shock/strut, or brake pads.  And surely the last set of tires (installed at ~58k miles) would be bald unless those were all highway miles.   I'm tempted to pay a local dealer to look up the VIN, but am not sure if that will be worthwhile.  Last time I did this, it was 100% useless, and I felt scammed - they noted the bumper was replaced years ago and that's it.  A 5-year old could spot the accident damage, even though nothing was on the CARFAX.   After giving the dealer a call, the truck may have a hard shift, but they have to verify with their mechanic if that's even a concern.  And I've test driven about a dozen of these now, many near Chicago, and half the trucks shift hard/odd at all throttle positions.  The ones with aftermarket lifts/larger tires shift terrible, and 3 stock trucks shifted so violently I thought the transmission valve body was going out.   At this point I'm conflicted, as I need a vehicle, and am coming up short locally.  Northern trucks in this price range tend to have either multiple owners, a lot of mods (lifts/oversized tires without re-gearing), and are generally in rougher shape.   If this truck showed up in your neighborhood for $27k and you had to purchase it sight-unseen, with the possibility of needing a 10L80 rebuild, torque converter, or rear end - would you do it?  I'm convinced most of the 10L80 trucks I test drove are broken, they can't all shift so bad, with massive flares/slipping/lurching and mis-matched downshifts like a teen driver learning stick.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...