Thinking About A New 2011 Silverado Or Sierra

[platinumalty]

i just bought a 2011 silverado crew cab a few months ago. i got it for the exact same reason you are lookin. 2 car seats will fit nicely in the back.

[lesZ71]

i just bought a 2011 silverado crew cab a few months ago. i got it for the exact same reason you are lookin. 2 car seats will fit nicely in the back.

Got a chance to stop by one of the local dealers a few days ago. They only wanted to give me $9k on trade in. Told them I would need at least 12-13k. KBB is $13k. They have already called me twice this week to see if I could stop by and talk again.

 

I realize this is a chevy forum and I have always been a chevy guy, but a coworker just bought a new F-150 crew cab with the ecoboost engine...very nice setup. The new truck smell is intoxicating!

[Stevens03]

i just bought a 2011 silverado crew cab a few months ago. i got it for the exact same reason you are lookin. 2 car seats will fit nicely in the back.

Got a chance to stop by one of the local dealers a few days ago. They only wanted to give me $9k on trade in. Told them I would need at least 12-13k. KBB is $13k. They have already called me twice this week to see if I could stop by and talk again.

 

I realize this is a chevy forum and I have always been a chevy guy, but a coworker just bought a new F-150 crew cab with the ecoboost engine...very nice setup. The new truck smell is intoxicating!

 

 

Check out the ecoboost threads posted here from the F150 site. There having alot of troubles with that truck. Remember, there's no replacement for displacement

[uh6tdrvr]

i just bought a 2011 silverado crew cab a few months ago. i got it for the exact same reason you are lookin. 2 car seats will fit nicely in the back.

Got a chance to stop by one of the local dealers a few days ago. They only wanted to give me $9k on trade in. Told them I would need at least 12-13k. KBB is $13k. They have already called me twice this week to see if I could stop by and talk again.

 

I realize this is a chevy forum and I have always been a chevy guy, but a coworker just bought a new F-150 crew cab with the ecoboost engine...very nice setup. The new truck smell is intoxicating!

 

 

Check out the ecoboost threads posted here from the F150 site. There having alot of troubles with that truck. Remember, there's no replacement for displacement

 

 

and there are better fuel mileage reports with the 5.0 that the eco boost. They are having problems with injectors too on their boosted engines. I will give it to the ford that they have more room in them but if you were to sway that way, the 5.0 is netting 18-19 with 3.73's where the eco with the same rears are getting 15-16. The 22 mpg is a ec 2wd with 3.15's and the one that tows 11k is a 2wd ec with 3.73s so if you want to tow 11k and get 22 mpg with a ford it will take two of them to do it. And towing reports on their forums are netting about 7 mpg with the eco and 9-10 with the 5.0 so either way with a 3.73 rear end you will get better mileage with the 5.0. So it still stands true, NO replacement for Displacement! So if towing 10-11k fast is your thing, do it with a 2500 or above because everyone that has ever towed that much knows it not how fast you get it going it how fast you stop it!

[bustedlimb]

I bought a 2011 Silverado 1500.

 

Buy a Ford.

[stormrider]

I bought a 2011 Silverado 1500.

 

Buy a Ford.

 

 

care to elaborate a little?

[AlaskanSilverado07]

I can't say that I'd buy a Ford but having just purchased a 2011 Avalanche, I can say the 6-speed transmissions are problematic for some of us and you may wish to consider this. The transmissions drive fine during the test drive but after 700 miles things start to act up including lazyingness/hesitation when applying the accelerator and surging. You can do a search and find what I'm talking about.

 

I can't recommend Ford as they're having issues with the Ecoboost engines. I feel Dodge makes a decent truck but the 5.7 is a gas hog and takes twice as many spark plugs to service it every 30,000 miles (two spark plugs per cylinder due to the Hemi). Toyota Tundra is American made but I just didn't like the truck. Nissan is a joke so where does that leave you for a full size crew cab? General Motors. If I had to do it all over again, I would get a GM product with the Allison transmission as it is by far the best tranny I've ever owned. Granted, to do this you have to go for the 3/4 or one ton and it will cost you dearly.

 

Just my opinion...

[bustedlimb]

I bought a 2011 Silverado 1500.

 

Buy a Ford.

 

 

care to elaborate a little?

 

 

I have not put 2000 miles on a 2011 Ford so I couldnt say for sure, but I would at least try to get each truck overnight for a test. The ford has its own set of problems, I imagine. Maybe they are worse than what I have experienced.

 

The Silverado has a powerful engine, rides really smooth and has low road noise. The transmission is a little different, and I am still getting used to how it shifts and clunks, mostly at low speeds around town when you are getting on and off the gas. It is a great tranny for performances, the engine can always get in a good gear for accelerating and stuff.

 

It is just awkward when driving easy, in my opinion, which is most of my driving. If you off the gas at a low speed and coast, then get back on the gas, you have to hold the pedal in the right position for like 2-3 seconds so that the truck downshifts smoothly. Otherwise, if you push the pedal down too far because you are waiting for the quick response you are used to with different trannys, when it finally does shift it really jolts you.

 

If it does not downshift in this jerky fashion, and keeps its gear, often the driveline has a noticeable clunk that just sounds like it is not good. I know this isnt uncommon and that backlash is required, but it seems excessive. Also, the same clunk will sometimes occur when letting off the gas in this seam scenario. Strange thing is that is only happens sometimes and other times its totally fine.

 

 

The truck feels like I have to really push on the gas to get it to move because it always shifts into 5th or 6th gear to drop the RPMs to like 1200. The slow throttle response from the drive-by-wire and the active fuel management, which doesnt kick into V8 mode unless you push the gas down a ways, makes the truck sluggish around town unless you gas it. It is kind of on or off with the power sometimes. If I hammer the gas in town I am in for a ride and truck hauls ass and shifts great (even though you dont get full throttle for a few seconds due to computer controls), but when I try to drive slow and smooth I have to work kind of hard and predict what the computer will have the trans do.

 

I am told that a custom tune for the computer makes most of this go away, but who wants to risk losing warranty at 2000 miles? Chevy just has way too much computer control over the truck to save fuel and wear, etc..

 

Also, the plastic trim and interior parts seem kinda of cheap. I have a lot of rattles, buzzes and squeaks I have noticed. The rougher the road the worse they get. Some I would expect but some are just unacceptable for a $27K vehicle. The gauge hood moves at least a quarter inch up and down if you wiggle it. The ford gauge hood was totally solid, at least on 2011 super duty. Whatever 6 speed ford uses actually shifted predictably.

 

I noticed an annoying ringing sound in the truck that is audible even when going 60MPH. Sounds like it is coming from the dash and it sounds like a TV that has a high pitch ringing, just not quite as loud.

 

 

I brought the truck into the local dealer to look at all of these issues, and they fixed nothing. Said they fixed the squeaks and rattles that they could find, but nothing has changed. The shifting, clunkiness, ringing noise I was told were all normal.

 

Thanks for wasting my time, Ranger GM.

[bustedlimb]

I bought a 2011 Silverado 1500.

 

Buy a Ford.

 

 

care to elaborate a little?

 

 

I have not put 2000 miles on a 2011 Ford so I couldnt say for sure, but I would at least try to get each truck overnight for a test. The ford has its own set of problems, I imagine. Maybe they are worse than what I have experienced.

 

The Silverado has a powerful engine, rides really smooth and has low road noise. The transmission is a little different, and I am still getting used to how it shifts and clunks, mostly at low speeds around town when you are getting on and off the gas. It is a great tranny for performances, the engine can always get in a good gear for accelerating and stuff.

 

It is just awkward when driving easy, in my opinion, which is most of my driving. If you off the gas at a low speed and coast, then get back on the gas, you have to hold the pedal in the right position for like 2-3 seconds so that the truck downshifts smoothly. Otherwise, if you push the pedal down too far because you are waiting for the quick response you are used to with different trannys, when it finally does shift it really jolts you.

 

If it does not downshift in this jerky fashion, and keeps its gear, often the driveline has a noticeable clunk that just sounds like it is not good. I know this isnt uncommon and that backlash is required, but it seems excessive. Also, the same clunk will sometimes occur when letting off the gas in this seam scenario. Strange thing is that is only happens sometimes and other times its totally fine.

 

 

The truck feels like I have to really push on the gas to get it to move because it always shifts into 5th or 6th gear to drop the RPMs to like 1200. The slow throttle response from the drive-by-wire and the active fuel management, which doesnt kick into V8 mode unless you push the gas down a ways, makes the truck sluggish around town unless you gas it. It is kind of on or off with the power sometimes. If I hammer the gas in town I am in for a ride and truck hauls ass and shifts great (even though you dont get full throttle for a few seconds due to computer controls), but when I try to drive slow and smooth I have to work kind of hard and predict what the computer will have the trans do.

 

I am told that a custom tune for the computer makes most of this go away, but who wants to risk losing warranty at 2000 miles? Chevy just has way too much computer control over the truck to save fuel and wear, etc..

 

Also, the plastic trim and interior parts seem kinda of cheap. I have a lot of rattles, buzzes and squeaks I have noticed. The rougher the road the worse they get. Some I would expect but some are just unacceptable for a $27K vehicle. The gauge hood moves at least a quarter inch up and down if you wiggle it. The ford gauge hood was totally solid, at least on 2011 super duty. Whatever 6 speed ford uses actually shifted predictably.

 

I noticed an annoying ringing sound in the truck that is audible even when going 60MPH. Sounds like it is coming from the dash and it sounds like a TV that has a high pitch ringing, just not quite as loud.

 

 

I brought the truck into the local dealer to look at all of these issues, and they fixed nothing. Said they fixed the squeaks and rattles that they could find, but nothing has changed. The shifting, clunkiness, ringing noise I was told were all normal.

 

Thanks for wasting my time, Ranger GM.

 

 

 

Dont get me wrong. The vehicles is very nice and a HUUUUGE step up from what I had. it is powerful and a good cruiser.

 

I am just ranting my concerns. To me what I have listed is unacceptable for a new 2011 pick-up. I mean, does Chev test drive these things for more than a mile before they decide to make 100,000 of them?

[music]

I have not put 2000 miles on a 2011 Ford so I couldnt say for sure...

 

Your complaints aren't unreasonable. The stock 6-spd tuning is definitely "geared" towards maximum mpg. Guys w/ the 6.2/6-spd get much better throttle response & performance, so the two aren't comparable. If you had a Autocal from Justin, I would be surprised if you ever had a warranty problem if you returned it to stock before dealer visits. I'd suggest you try two alternatives first: 1. try driving in tow/haul mode, or use M5 around town.

 

That said, the Ford 6-spd has the same complaints. Tundra guys w/ the 4.6 have similarm problems, but not so much with the 5.7. The bigger motors have the low rpm torque to handle the high 6th gearing better. A key design goal on the 6-spd autos is *efficiency*, so they don't use the torque converter as much (downshift instead of just unlocking for a little bump of power).

 

As for squeaks/rattles... all I can say is that mine still sounds "like new" after 3 yrs. Luck of the draw, maybe? Regardless, I'd use the warranty. If the dealer doesn't seem to care, find another! My dealer has been great in this regard.

[tonygxp]

i have a 2011 F150 CC 4x4 XLT with the 5.0 "coyote" engine. Where i work i have the ability to change my truck (it's a work truck that i spend 8hrs or more a day in) daily if i choose. granted with the amount of crap i haul around i wouldn't dare, but honestly i get bored in a few months (sometimes quicker depending on the truck) and change out, always for a BRAND NEW either; Ram, Silvy, or F150... I have this white F150 for almost a year...a year boys and girls. this is by far the finest pickup i have ever "owned" if you can call it that.. the new engine almost as powerful as the 6.2 that's in the YD/SD. the trans tune is perfect, from the factory.. go drive one. mpg avg 15.x driving 80+mph and idling for hours at a time in traffic or at a standstill while i work. the ride is firm, very truck like (this is where the Ram kills both the Silvy and F150) but it handles way better than the Silvys and Rams i have used for months at a time. I do like the dash layout better in the Ram than either.. overall the F150, the NEW F150 is the best truck out there (until the new Gm's arrive lol)

 

irc, here's the trucks i have used, all from new (less than 100 miles or so) crew cab (except Ram, which is quad cab)

Ram = 7-10

Silvy = 3-5

F150 = 2 (1 '10 with the 4.6 3v/6spd combo, the other the new 5.0 '11)

[Stevens03]

Dont get me wrong. The vehicles is very nice and a HUUUUGE step up from what I had. it is powerful and a good cruiser.

 

I am just ranting my concerns. To me what I have listed is unacceptable for a new 2011 pick-up. I mean, does Chev test drive these things for more than a mile before they decide to make 100,000 of them?

 

I've had the exact opposite experience so far with my 2011. You can't rate the entire truck line on your trucks list of issues. And I'm not taking that away from you, I'd be mad too.

[MikeNH]

If you don't like how unresponsive it is around town then don't put the transmission into "D". I always keep mine in manual mode and run the truck in 4th around town (35-45 MPH), 5th on the outskirts (45-55) and finally 6th once I get to the highway. Works great and in M4 and M5 the DOD is disabled.

[AlaskanSilverado07]

MikeNH,

 

You make a good point in that I was out for lunch a little while ago and ran around with it in M and did exactly what you state you do with yours and what a difference. Apparently it is the "hunting" for a gear that induces what seems like a hesitate but as long as I manually changed gears via M, it shifted like my 2009. Its hard to believe we've come full circle with these trucks...from the old "three on the tree" to the M on the tree. ;-)

[APT]

and there are better fuel mileage reports with the 5.0 that the eco boost...I will give it to the ford that they have more room in them but if you were to sway that way, the 5.0 is netting 18-19 with 3.73's where the eco with the same rears are getting 15-16. The 22 mpg is a ec 2wd with 3.15's and the one that tows 11k is a 2wd ec with 3.73s so if you want to tow 11k and get 22 mpg with a ford it will take two of them to do it. And towing reports on their forums are netting about 7 mpg with the eco and 9-10 with the 5.0 so either way with a 3.73 rear end you will get better mileage with the 5.0.

 

Lies! What are you comparing, city vs. highway? 5.0L owners are not getting 18-19mpg in mixed or city driving. The only EB owners getting 15mpg are the ones with larger, heavier tires. EB with 3.73 gears people are getting the EPA ratings unless they drive over 75mph on the highway, then it's only 20mpg.

 

So if towing 10-11k fast is your thing, do it with a 2500 or above because everyone that has ever towed that much knows it not how fast you get it going it how fast you stop it!

 

I agree!