Jump to content

UCA metal to metal contact


Recommended Posts

Posted

Look into Fox or King. Maybe they make long travel coilovers that will work with your 6" kit. You will need new UCAs too. That will be costly.

Posted

It can happen but it's not "normal" or good. It typically comes from too much lift without other corrections being made, such as your case Chase. I'm guessing you have a 2.5" leveling kit?

Posted

Yes, but in the near future it's coming off. IF I don't trade this thing for a '13 F150 fx4, I'm going to put a 2.25 ready lift on it with stock Tahoe wheels and zeon ltz's

Posted

blackout07:

if lets say I found a long travel coil overs... will replacing the UCA alone will do the trick ?

and we you say long travel do you mean a couple go inches "longer" or is it more like the ones used in Baja racing Trucks?

I really want something similar to Baja Trucks but I don't thing the extra long travel coil overs will fit to my truck without major cuttings right?

Posted

This is out of my realm of "expertise.". I would contact Fox and see what your options are with the BDS kit. I'm just guessing you would need long travel coilovers that would work with your lift and new UCAs.

Posted
This is out of my realm of "expertise.". I would contact Fox and see what your options are with the BDS kit. I'm just guessing you would need long travel coilovers that would work with your lift and new UCAs.
maybe talk to bds tech line?

 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Hate to bring this back from the dead (especially as a nOOb to this forum) but I was searching around online and I have the same issue: Stiff ride with BDS lift.

 

 

My truck is an 07' GMC Sierra 1500 4wd EC with the 5 3/4' bed. When I put my BDS lift on the truck road rode really rough imo. I contacted BDS and we went over a few things to check out all of which seemed to be fine. They then told me most likely it was my tires and not the lift.

 

Right now the truck has 325/60R18 Nitto Terra Grapplers that are Load E rated. They say the Load E on a 1500 tends to see harsh feeling in the ride. The best way to describe how my truck reacts is this:

 

If you are going from a road transition (say asphalt to concrete) that has a drop, it feels and sounds like the truck is slamming hard with the drop. It's pretty aggravating to say the least. This also applies to pot holes etc.

 

At work, I have to drive over 3 speed bumps to exit the center and unless I am going less than 5 mph (basically very slow roll) over the speed bumps, It will feel as if the rebound on the front end it too stiff and the truck has a "bouncing" feeling. --- technical description --- hit speed bump: compresses truck goes up, off speed bump: rebounds truck goes down, slight bounce of the front end back up.

 

Not sure if you fixed your solution, but I'd sure like to hear if you changed anything. I'm considering getting a top spacer from another kit and switching back to a stock strut to see if that fixes it. If not, the next thing I will try is new tires.

 

 

One more thing to mention: I did adjust my sway bar end links to where they are just tight and no more. That seems to help ever so slightly but not much.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,295 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...