08 1500 Second Battery

Spurshot · September 22, 2012

My brother has been after me to get an electric cooler for my hunting trips in my truck. He has two now and has offered to let me use them for an upcoming trip to the Dakotas (from CA).

So, I needed to install a couple power receptacles (cigarette lighter plugs) in the bed and thought it would be prudent to install a second battery

After reading a bit on this forum, I ordered a Painless 40120 Digital Power Manager from Summit Racing. It arrived promptly and I was ready to start the installation yesterday after work. When I openned the box I noted that the only thing in the box was the module and the wire bundle. There was no hardware, connectors, bolts, heat shrink, or electrical insulating boots for the terminals.

So, in the interest of getting this project done this weekend, I headed to an autoparts store looking for these items. O'Reilley = no luck. Pep Boys = no luck. Electronics store = heat shrink & connectors, no boots. West Marine = boots and large connectors. 2 hrs and 20 miles of driving in rush hour in L.A. and the associated gas, I had my hardware. I figure I'm $8 in gas and about $20 in parts into this, plus the $200 "Painless" part.

I still have to get some battery lug adapters that clamp on the battery terminals and allow the cable lugs to bolt on, and, of course, a battery. Today's another day...

I'll post pix of the installation later.

ujtruck · September 22, 2012

You should have visit your local Radio/Boom Box installer, they have everything for install 2nd Battery

Spurshot · September 23, 2012

Aux battery installation. I used a factory clamp and bolt $6-7 at the dealer.

I tied from the Painless module to the fuse block on the firewall, because it was more convenient than tieing directly to the battery.

Trimmed the fuse cover to allow for the cable out the top left.

The kit comes with enough wire to run 5 ft from the aux battery to the module then another 5 ft to of cable to the main battery. I wanted the module behind the main battery. That took 10 ft of cable from the aux battery. I decided I'd bump the cable gauge from 6 ga to 4 ga for a 10 ft run. $30 worth of cable at West Marine and some cable ends

My location for the green flashing light...for now. I was finding it a pain to find a firewall penetration to run the wire so I just put the light outside in the plastic corner trim of the windshield. Short wire run, easy to replace the corner trim.

00Silverado4x4 · September 23, 2012

Sweet. Need to do something like this to my truck....one of these days.

David_L6 · September 23, 2012

I like that. Good job!

Spurshot · September 23, 2012

So, it was almost $200 for the "Painless" module. About $125 for a DieHard online w/tax. Probably another $75 in cables, hardware, etc., plus the countless trips to stores. Call it another $100. So, maybe $400-425 for this installation.

I hope this Painless thing is trouble free and an works when needed. But, by its very nature of design, you will likely never know if you've drained your main battery and the aux battery provides an assist to starting the truck. This system is not supposed to let a slow current draw drain the aux. Normal slow current draw should drain the main battery, then, when a large (starting) load is encountered and the main is unable to provide all the current, the smart circuit in the Painless module is suppose to trip the relay to assist the start load. In normal running, the Painless circuit is supposed to let the main battery be charged up first, then allow the aux battery to get a charge next. Theoretically, the aux battery should always be there fully charged for assisting the main battery in the event it's needed to help start the engine. I may never find out if it works. I change batteries at 5 years as a matter of judgement to prevent being stranded on a hunting trip in the middle of timbuktu. That has worked well for me.

ujtruck · September 24, 2012

Good Install, but here is another way of doing it

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50

Spurshot · September 24, 2012

Joe,

Thanks for sharing that schematic. Having been around trucks a long time, I was aware of the old ways to install a second battery including ways to have the alternator charge the aux battery. I was interested in a system that didn't require any operator tasks to either charge the second battery or bring it online.

ujtruck · September 24, 2012

you welcome Spurshot - you spent $$$ - but I think well worth the extra investment

now if anyone going with cheap route, then don't buy 2 doller relay, get following one or better

Sir Dan · September 26, 2012

Nice looking Painless install there! I mounted mine on the firewall beside the brake booster but I like the way your module is hidden behind the main batt. One other thing I did to make it look factory was tuck all the wires inside some of that ribbed black plastic wire loom stuff you can get at the parts store. Also, I didn't like the idea of a huge blinking light on the dash so I replaced it with a smaller green LED and stuck it down below the steering wheel. I often wonder if the thing is working at all, but my main is 5 years old now and it will be going soon. I noticed that before adding the second batt, the truck would crank over slower after sitting for a week but now it spins over the same no matter how long I leave it so there is some help there already.

Spurshot · September 28, 2012

Thanks Blaine.

I've been thinking about putting the red cable in some of the split sheathing to make it look factory.

My main battery will be replaced next year before the hunt season.

Pilot12 · October 9, 2012

I'm interested in doing a second battery installation combined with an inverter installation (probably a 1750W-2500W model). I'd like the alternator to keep both batteries charged and also use the second battery for start assist if needed. The inverter will be used for small tools and and a camp music mp3 player etc.

What I've learned so far is the battery and the inverter should be very near each other. That means putting them both in the bed or finding a place under the hood for the inverter. Another option would be to have 3 batteries but that seems like over kill, not to mention quite a bit more expense.

The inverter would be more convenient in the bed, but I'd like to use the factory second battery tray as well. I've considered putting both in a tool box with some sort of "plug in" system so I can remove the whole contraption, leaving just the wiring from the alternator, when I want it out of the way to haul something. This would also make it easy to swap it into a new truck if I want to.

I've researched the Hell Roaring products and other battery isolators, but can't seem to find an "all purpose" solution. I don't know if the factory alternator can handle what I'm contemplating either. Has anybody done anything like this yet?

On another note: My 2009 original battery went dead right at 3 years old. I wasn't surprised because that's happened with every new vehicle I've ever had. I'm glad it coincided with the week BEFORE I left for hunting.

Thanks for any input and thoughts!

Kelly

Spurshot · October 16, 2012

Well the fateful day arrived...and it didn't go as expected. I woke up and loaded up the wife and dogs at 5:00 am for North Dakota, put the key in and turned it...click...and nothin.

Voltmeter showed 12.0 on the main battery, 12.7 on the new aux battery. Crap! I charged the main for a couple hrs and went to the local Sears when they openned. The kid there did a load test on the main and it test ok. Not great. I bought a new battery and we were on our way. No problems since. We made it to Cheyenne lastnite and it seems to be fine. I have an email to Painless about my dissatisfaction with this setup. Apparently they make an optional add-on kit to get full power for full backup starting power.

Sir Dan · October 16, 2012

Looks like the add-on kit consists of a push button solenoid that temporarily connects the aux batt for full power. Digital Power Manager w/ Jump Start. http://www.painlesswiring.com/Manuals/40121.pdf

Rather disappointing that your truck wouldn't start. Did you try hooking up jumper cables to the aux?

ujtruck · October 17, 2012

or just keep a small pice of wire then whenever you need jump start supply B+ to the remote terminal of your painless solenoid (so you don't have to drill through dash board)

now how can this be a painless - in a cold winter morning? after all you spend that much $$$