Jump to content

Difficulty in refueling

Hidebinder

Recommended Posts

GMCustomerService Senior Enthusiast

GMCustomerService

Posted
Posted

I have a problem filling my tank also.

 

What I found is if I hold the nozzle up instead of letting it rest the tank will fill.

 

If I let it rest like you're supposed to it will click off time after time.

 

It must be the way the fill tube is shaped because it prevents the fuel from going straight into the tank and causes the fuel to create a back pressure on the nozzle and it senses that the tank is full and clicks off.

 

It happens at almost every gas station so I know it is not the nozzle.

 

Is this the same problem everyone is having?

 

 

Have you had a chance to mention this to the dealer? Keep me posted and feel free to contact me directly if you need additional assistance. Thank you.

 

Tricia, GM Customer Service.

rob@sphericmojo.com Enthusiast

[email protected]

Posted
Posted

Mine has done this sporadically since new, I just put up with it. Usually more prevalent when the gas tank is near empty. Some pumps are more sensitive than others.

Where is the evap. canister located? I will check the screen to to see if that helps.

scooby5121 Enthusiast

scooby5121

Posted
Posted

THIS IS A REPEATED QUESTION..

 

Search in the Forum in the Search Box on the top right of the page.

Type in Location of Evap Cannister..

There is tons of pics, etc on it.

 

Scooby

CRSilverado Enthusiast

CRSilverado

Posted
Posted

I have a problem filling my tank also.

 

What I found is if I hold the nozzle up instead of letting it rest the tank will fill.

 

If I let it rest like you're supposed to it will click off time after time.

 

It must be the way the fill tube is shaped because it prevents the fuel from going straight into the tank and causes the fuel to create a back pressure on the nozzle and it senses that the tank is full and clicks off.

 

It happens at almost every gas station so I know it is not the nozzle.

 

Is this the same problem everyone is having?

Same problem here. 2013 6.2 1500 Silverado. Less than 1000 miles but every time I add gas I have to hold the nozzle up or it cuts off. Afraid it's just the way the truck is made.

  • 1 year later...
Doug in Oregon Enthusiast

Doug in Oregon

Posted
Posted

I have an 07 Silverado Classic, I have had refueling issues right from the start when I got it brand new. I have had the relocation of the canister and the evap solenoid. I have two issues:

 

1. Refueling takes forever. I have nothing blocking the hose, the canister and the evap hose and valve and filer are new. But I hear fuel gurgling up teh filler neck everytime I get gas. Its a pain here in Oregon as we are not allowed to pump our own fuel. and they think that its full after .20 worth of gas.

 

2. CODES P0499 and P0455. I have replaced the solenoid like I said and the power wire for teh soleinod has 12VDC wither the key is on or not. When I turn he key on (KOEO) it drops to 11.7VDC and the other side doesnt have any. I was told my a chevy mech that one side gets 12 and when the key is on, the other leg gets 1VDC, thus creating a differential in voltage and closes the valve to create a sealed system for vacuum. This isnt happening.

 

I (for testing purposes) tapped off the evap line going IN to the cainster. Zeroed out the codes and sure enough the 499 code was gone., then I removed the tape and it came back, do that tells me that the part of the ECM that reads that is working. But the ECM isnt sending a ground or 1 vdc to teh white wire of teh solenoid valve.

Why not? How do I fix that, or test for that.

What can I do about the refueling issue? PLEASE HELP

Doug in Oregon Enthusiast

Doug in Oregon

Posted
Posted

Oh and holding the nozzle at an angle, or holding the nozzle away and creating a gap to allow the vapors to escape isnt working. I've ad this issue for 7 years and I have tried everything....excpet the right way to fix this truck.

 

 

Doug in Oregon

Doug in Oregon Enthusiast

Doug in Oregon

Posted
Posted
So this weekend I wanted to verify that none of the vent lines were plugged up causing the refueling issue. I took the bed off the frame and got access to the top of the fuel cell. I then checked all the vents, they were all good, then I took the filler neck off and the screen was wedged in sideways blocking the fuel from going in!! I have yet to try it but I am sure that is the issue!!

I tried to post a picture of that filter sitting all crocked but I cant. The screen is pretty thick and that blocked the filler tube I'd say no less than 90" blocked

  • 2 months later...
2stimpy Enthusiast

2stimpy

Posted
Posted

 

So this weekend I wanted to verify that none of the vent lines were plugged up causing the refueling issue. I took the bed off the frame and got access to the top of the fuel cell. I then checked all the vents, they were all good, then I took the filler neck off and the screen was wedged in sideways blocking the fuel from going in!! I have yet to try it but I am sure that is the issue!!

I tried to post a picture of that filter sitting all crocked but I cant. The screen is pretty thick and that blocked the filler tube I'd say no less than 90" blocked

 

 

And? was this the solution?

I am having the same problem, almost impossible to get fuel in.

Only way i can fuel up is with a can. 2008 Silverado.

Doug in Oregon Enthusiast

Doug in Oregon

Posted
Posted

Hello 2Stimpy, YES!! That was the issue. Apparently a few years ago someone tried to steal gas and must have run something down the filler tube and knocked it sideways. The hose is not very large to begin with and the strainer is fairly thick so when it was knocked all out of whack it took up a lot of room and gas had a hard time flowing. Its all better now!

 

I took my bed off to inspect the fuel tank and all teh vent hoses were in good shape and right before I was ready to put the bed on I decided to inspect the filler neck! There it was! Taking the bed off was easy and kinda fun!

 

2stimpy Enthusiast

2stimpy

Posted
Posted

Ok, so the blockage was just above the tank?

Is it impossible to get there without lifting the bed?

Doug in Oregon Enthusiast

Doug in Oregon

Posted
Posted

The strainer or whatever it’s called sits about 1" up inside the filler neck hose from where it mounts on the tank. The fuel tank has a 90° hose barb that the rubber filler hose fits onto ( kind of like the radiator hoses do) well that strainer fits snuggly up against that and the hose fits over top of them and is secured with a clamp.

 

 

Well I found it a pain in the rear to get to that as you have to be on your back to get to it. So unless you’re good at twisting and turning and reaching all at the same time then it’s easy to take the bed off. The hardest thing on taking teh bed off was that dang light connection. it was on there good.

 

It was 3 bolts (17mm I think) on each side ( 3ea for the 1500s and 4ea for the 2500 so I was told) and a light connection just above and to the left of the license plate. It was so simple. I was thinking it was going to be this huge ordeal, but it wasn’t. I didn’t have anyone to help me lift the bed off, but I have access to a fork lift with 6 foot extenders and it was nothing to use a block of wood to lift the bed up a few inches and slide the forks in and boom! it was up and off! I wish I could post pics here, but I can’t seem to get it let me.

 

  • 7 months later...
macsaby New Member

macsaby

Posted
Posted

So I was overseas on business for three weeks and just got back. My wife started having symptoms similar to what is mentioned here. Of course, she took the car to the dealer because she loves and trusts them. Long story short, they charged her $960 to fix it! Is this typical? What the hell is wrong with people... and I mean both, my wife and the dealer!

  • 4 years later...
nolte Enthusiast

nolte

Posted
Posted

I refueled my 04 Avalanche at the slowest setting for 15 and a half years before trading it in last week. This issue was my only complaint about that truck, but since it did it from brand new I just thought it was a design error.

I wish I'd seen this forum/thread....

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • txab
      2001 GMC Sierra - Banging feeling in steering wheel

      By txab · Posted

      Without knowing how bad your banging is, one suggestion is the intermediate steering shaft on the steering wheel. These used to be a problem on 800 and earlier series. The feeling/sound was sometimes described as "clunking" and was felt in the wheel. Also there is a plastic piece in the lower column that is referred to as a bearing. Not your traditional looking bearing though. Your ball joints, bushings and tie rods or steering rack (if equipped) are the main point of issues. You never mention total unit miles, only that you've put 60k on it.   You can search the site for help on the ISS description. Plenty of these have been replaced
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Yes I have is set with the 1mm disk (Minumim Tension), for spring spacing and I raised my truck in the rear 1.5". You can go 2mm  and I think 3mm if you need.Minimum. We are on our way to TN from GA.. My wife is driving and stated she cannot believe  and   stated she can not belive the difference.
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Most 1 ton trucks come with the factory overload spring, which need to be removed for installation of RoadActive Suspension. Removing the overload allows proper fitment and ensures the system works as intended. The RAS® Mega-Duty kit will reduce squat and provide significant improvement vs the factory overload spring.
    • No1UKnow
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By No1UKnow · Posted

      I wonder as well, why they would send me a text message with links to these suggested procedures totalling over $10,000 without even the slightest hint of how they arrived at these being necessary.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      https://precisionlubrication.com/articles/oil-filter-efficiency/     For them it is a problem of $$$$ and compliance. To cover both they have to lie from the heart.    Government wants low waste oil numbers so the bar needs to be very low on contamination to met that requirement.  Consumer wants cheap maintenance (perceived cost). Again requiring a low bar.  OEM wants high margins at a cost effective warranty rate and lots of repeat customers. More low bar.  Filter manufacture wants the same thing the OEM wants. See the pattern?   Consumers are fickle and also want perfection requiring a HIGH bar. Inconsistent with all of the above. Consumers can be, when the put their minds to it, inquisitive, love winning arguments which requires some useful information to be available to support them. And this is where it gets sticky and the lies begin.    Information needs a solid well grounded point of reference if we are to compare in a useful way. There is a standard for this.  ISO 4548-12. This standard sets the particle size at a specific Beta ratio and darn few are faithful to its intent.    If they don't state the test method they change the particle size or the Beta ratio to hit a perceived favorable standard. They obscure the information in a way as to prevent direct comparisons leaving the consumer with one method. UOA's with an ISO 4406 test result. Pricey and not allot of labs willing to do the work. Lobby work happens everywhere, not just at the seat of government.       

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...