Jump to content

Correctrack Rear Wheel Spacers


Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently saw an ad about these rear wheel spacers which are supposed to align the rear track to the same width as the front. They are advertised to "correct tracking, improve handling and stabilize towing". I have always stayed away from spacers for fear of overloading the axle bearings. Their ad says that this is "negligible" based on "independent" testing. I did a search here but didn't come up with any previous threads. The rear track does appear to be about 4" narrower than the front and I'm sure it would improve the looks but I am wondering if it will perform as advertised.

 

Since we will be using our truck (2003 Chevy 2500HD) for long distance towing of a car trailer I am interested in anyone's experience in using them and would appreciate your feedback. Thanks,

 

Rich Lagasse

Posted

I gotem on my 03 2500HD and I'm very happy with them.  The truck looks tougher, it handles better (especially when towing) and it really helps in deep snow!

 

My $.02

Posted

Willy,

 

Thanks for the response. I had heard horror stories about using spacers but those may have been the type that were held on with the existing lugs. I spoke to the owner of Correctrack and he seemed to know what he was talking about as he designed these units. He told me the front to rear difference in track width on the 03 models is 2 3/4". He also said you should notice a difference even when not towing. These units look very well made and I ordered a set (even got the "Senior Citizen" discount which pays for the shipping) and I hope to have them next week. They should definitely improve the looks and I'm hoping that there will be a noticeable difference in handling as well.

 

Thanks again,

 

Rich Lagasse

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

If you own a 2500 or 3500 this is a pair of mods to dramatically improve the driveability and performance of your great truck.

 

In previous posts I have referred to the Roadmaster Active Suspension as the way to control sway, wheel hop and dandruff - I still believe it - and enjoy the ride with them. :rolleyes:

 

Now i have the perfect companion - Rear Wheel Alignment System - "spacers" to most of us.

 

This is where you start - narrow rear.

gxx_ctbefore.jpg

 

It turns out that GM decided that our front axles needed to be 3+ inches wider than the rear - makes for an interesting effect - understeer, etc.

 

Now you put in these incredibly sturdy 2" spacers,

 

gxx_ctspacer.jpg

 

And with a little "torqueing" ...

 

gxx_ctafter.jpg

 

I can tell you without qualification that this results in a 100% improvement in tracking and #### near that much in steering - this beast tracks like my old GTO, which is hard to beat. :nono:

 

CJAccessories is now carrying both. If you own a 2500 or 3500, don't let this pair of mods go by :thumb:

 

Very curious to see how they track at the track, I know how well they work around town and on the highway

Posted

Thanks for the suggestion on the Correctrack. I did get them after talking with the guy who designed them. I honestly can't say if they made a dramatic improvement in handling as I had never towed our car trailer without them. It just seemed that matching the rear and front tracks made sense (it also looks a little better :cheers: ). They are well made and designed units and the installation is straight-forward.

 

I can say though that our first towing experience with this truck has been fantastic. The tracking, ride, handling, fuel mileage and pulling power was even better than I thought it would be. We went through a lot of snow and high winds during the trip to Detroit and it was stable in any condition. It was also the most comfortable tow vehicle we have ever had.

 

One thing that was very noticeable was the virtual lack of sway even when passing or being passed by tractor/trailer rigs. We had that in every previous tow vehicle and this one has so little effect that you almost don't notice it. Whether the Correctrack helped there I can't say but I doubt it detracted from the good handling we experienced.

 

Rich Lagasse

Posted

Interesting...I have only been on this website a week now...and I have learned many new things about my chevy truck - and I am an experienced car guy.....I guess it goes to show you that no matter how much you think you know....there is always something new to learn.

 

I think I will buy a set for my 2002 HD......I do have one question though....I am going to upgrade to a 03 or 04 Crew Cab shortly - Will the 2002's fit the 03's or 04's ??

 

This website is fantastic ...and the people here are very helpful !!! - No sarcasim...ect.....!!!!!

 

Thanks  

 :thumb:

Posted

While I believe that the 2002 and 2003 trucks would take the same units it would be best to call them to check and make sure. Their phone number is 888-862-2167. I doubt that anyone will know what the 2004 will have for certain though.

 

Rich Lagasse

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You are winning more than battles. You're winning the war!  Nice. 
    • Blazer is all put back together. Another hard-won battle. The 4.3 is not easy to work on in such an archaic and narrow chassis originally designed for an inline 4.   My baffle issue is solved. I returned to the OG junkyard but was ready for a fight. The Blazer I had picked from was stacked on another vehicle so I had no idea how the heck I was going to get myself to working height to pull the front end apart. I had seen an S10 pickup on the ground so I was hoping the part would be the same, AND, I couldn't remember if the S10 still had a front end or not. But I didn't need to worry because it turned out to be my lucky day. The yard had just taken in a '98 Blazer, sitting right up front, on the ground, with room to work around it, and the front end hadn't been hit. The baffle and all the clips were factory perfect. I also scored another good handful of odds/ends and the whole shebang only cost me $20.   Got everything back together and it fired right off, sounds good, runs good. I've got a little coolant drip from a lower water pump bolt (D'OH!!). I did the right thing and snugged it down a little bit, and of course that didn't fix it. Yet again, I will have to soak everything in coolant to drain it down to the water pump, remove the bolt, and attempt to re-seal it. Nothing is easy on this truck. Nothing. But now all the radiator plastics are correct, snug, and fully functional. No more rubbing on the cooling fan. It runs, drives (took it for a 30 mile drive last night), no Check Engine lights, EGR is working, no vacuum leaks. We're getting closer...   The replacement wiper motor arrived yesterday. The tailgate was already disassembled and waiting, so I threw that in. It works! Sort of. Two new issues on the list. While the motor is strong enough and the gears aren't stripped, the wiper is hanging up on the bottom of the rear glass. This is the old style where the lower half folds down like a truck tailgate, and the glass swings up, and they meet in the middle when closed. The glass isn't sitting flush with the tailgate, now that I look at it. No rubber bumpers that I can see for adjusting, so I'll have to look at the hinge adjustment to see if I can correct it. Also, the washer/squirter just dumps fluid underneath the truck. The lines actually run inside on the floor so I'm guessing the tailgate is soaked at the rear trim and the line is disconnected. There's also a drain there....probably for this reason.   The leaky water pump bolt was really disappointing. JUST STOP LEAKING...OMG!!   Replacing the window motor and a rear door speaker are still to do, and then everything will work. I want this to feel like a "good" vehicle worthy of dropping $600 for new tires before I do. That means no leaking first. I hurt, and I'm kind of cranky, so I'll probably take a day of rest and do the water pump again tomorrow.
    • Just saw on Jay Leno the new Scout. That’s the way it should be done.
    • EV's have their nuances too. Best to operate the current type of lithium batteries between 20-80% charge. No real need to charge until you hit around 20%. Occasionally charge to 100% when needed. Longer term storage, battery should be 50-60%. At least those are the guidelines for our iX. We've been exceptionally good to the battery in that car...easy to do when you can charge at home like we can.   EV's lack so many of the rituals and so much of the visceral feeling ICE vehicles provide, which is why I think they're hard to accept for a lot of gearheads. They're fun in different ways, though.
    • We have got a lot of rain lately, we needed it. Storms/lightning took out a floor fan. Dirt roads badly rutted from run off.   Power here is sketchy, whole house surge protector in the service panel and all electronics plugged into surge protectors. My biggest concern is my stereo, I've been an audio nut for years. $25 k in equipment. Stereo is on it's own special surge protector.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...