Jump to content

93 Suburban, back fires, starts and 100 rpms than goes to 1000.


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone,

 

I've been messing with my 93 Suburban for the past 2 days and I just can't pin point where the problem is.

 

1993 Chevrolet Suburban

7.4L 454 BB

K2500

4WD

TBI

 

On Saturday it wouldn't start so I took a look and found out that the injectors weren't working so I took out the ICM and had it tested, they said it was fine so I went back home and put it back in and than the injectors worked but than it would die.

 

I went back over every wire and hose I messed with until finally it would stay at the point of idling but only at about 100 or 200 RPMs it would backfire but run, when I gave it gas it would shake like an earth quake was going on until it hit 3000 or more RPMs it would be fine but have some backfires.

 

While it was running I jiggled more wires and now it will idle at 100 rpms and than a couple of seconds later it will jump up to 1100 rpms and than die back down to 100 rpms, it will keep doing this until I turn it off. I thought I found the problem when I jiggled the 2 pronged wire coming from the coil to the ICM but it's hard to say since it dies and picks back up randomly, I started it this afternoon and it ran fine for a couple of minutes and than it went down to 100 rpms and stayed there and than it will fluctuate, for as long as I've had it I have had to hold my foot on the gas a little to be able to start it, it wouldn't start on it's own unless it was warmed up.

 

I have already checked when I was trying to figure out the injector part, the fuel pump and fuel filter "those were both changed a year ago" tested the ICM 5 times. Distributor cap and rotor could use replacing but I took some 1000 grit sand paper to the points and cleaned out the cap and cleaned off the rotor, spark plugs and wires were replaced the same time the fuel pump and filter were changed. I went back to make sure all the wires were in the right location and to make sure the wires were plugged in nice and tight as well the wires for the ICM and anything else I touched.

Posted

Sounds like you might have multiple problems.Rather than throw a bunch of parts & money at it I'd consider taking it to a dealer and have them put their scanners on it.It can be easy to replace several parts & not solve the problem.Hopefully you have an honest dealer nearby.

Posted

I have it working now, the pick up coil plastic that was covering the wires crumbled in my hands when I first took it off so plugging it back in I guess they didn't connect right so I took off the plastic piece and put the wires in the right spot and runs like a dream

 

Thanks for the suggestion grampadirt.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
    • I have both but typically use the 4 legged walker (wheels on front, ski's on back).   The four wheeler is starting to be used on "longer" outdoor walks.  The 4 legged walker is particularly helpful in practicing good walking posture.  Both of my knees are at different stages of recovery and I'm trying to not develop poor habits.  I can actually manage with a cane but it's very difficult not to favor one leg over the other.  My PT recommends I continue with my 4 legged walker for a while.  Yesterday was four weeks since my last knee replacement and I'm excited about my progress to date.  It has been a hell of a rough journey so far but it is exciting to witness  systematic and continuous improvement.  I went for years watching the decline of my "mobility".  It seems that everyday now I am alerting my wife to something I can do now that I couldn't a day or two ago!  I encourage anyone facing the prospect of knee replacement to share any concerns with others who have had the surgery.  It isn't an instant fix but rather is a considerable amount of short term pain for long term gain.  Recovery time and pain levels vary for individuals post surgery but the end results are typically very positive and I've never encountered anyone regretting having had the surgery. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...