Jump to content

URGENT!!! Reverse, no forward, no lights on tcase


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just replaced a rear differential in a 2004 sierra 1500. the original ration was 3.73's. I spent all day today carefully washing it, painting it and replacing brakes, fluid, etc, and at 11:30 I took it for its first drive. the drive was good, until I put it in 4wd. (The place I bought it from assured me It was 3.73's) about 20 feet further there was a clunk and no forward gears. sound like a gearset in the trans anyone? due to a incorrect diff ratio? can anyone explain the 4x4 lights being off, and the reverse operating as normal? does this sound like the transfer case popped into neutral? as soon as I started rolling in 4x4 I new something was wrong, so I hit the 2wd button. It acted like 2wd engaged, but then the kind of clunky noise hit. PLEASE if anyone has better knowledge share it because this is a friends truck, I did it for cheap, and I cannot afford to buy him a transmission.

 

He is also flying into town tomorrow just to pick up this truck and drive it 500 miles and use it for work, and I leave town in 2 days for 5 days straight.

 

This is the WORST way to spend you vacation time.

 

Thanks all.

 

Posted

Did anyone pull the cover and check to make sure it had 3.73's? The first thing I do when changing out a rear end is to pull the cover. If you don't then the one you are installing might be worse than the one you are taking out. And when you have the cover off you can check gear ration, clean every thing up inside and pull the axles. And then check the axles and the bearings. Then replace cover with a new gasket. Put in new (and correct) fluid. I have never had a problem following this procedure.

Posted

Did anyone pull the cover and check to make sure it had 3.73's? The first thing I do when changing out a rear end is to pull the cover. If you don't then the one you are installing might be worse than the one you are taking out. And when you have the cover off you can check gear ration, clean every thing up inside and pull the axles. And then check the axles and the bearings. Then replace cover with a new gasket. Put in new (and correct) fluid. I have never had a problem following this procedure.

I used the serial #'s of both trucks to determine ratio. It is possible to have a different ratio but both trucks were 4wd and both had stock sized tires. Unless either truck was lifted, or possibly 2wd its unlikely the ratios have changed.

However, out of curiousity this morning I checked to carrier itself. 41 tooth crown, 11 tooth pinion. (3.727:10

I also tried rotating the pinion and marked the wheels. just over 3.5 turns per wheel rotation.

 

For everyones info, the truck has 1st, and reverse. the transmission slips heavily in 1st, the service 4wd indicator is on, and the 4wd shift buttons do not light or indicate what gear it is in. (its in 2wd)

 

 

My guess is that when the diff piled up, it progressively damaged the transmission.

if the transfer case is damaged too it wouldn't surprise me.

 

Its at a transmission shop now. I managed to get ahold of him before he jumped on any planes, so that's good.

Here he was excited to get a new differential installed, next day and brakes done for less than what any small shop would do it for.

 

Im breathing a sigh of relief that its not my mistake and Im not stuck buying a transmission.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...