Jump to content

WeatherTech mud flaps

Mike-1000

By Mike-1000
in Vendor & Product Reviews

Recommended Posts

Mike-1000 Enthusiast

Mike-1000

Posted
Posted

After doing some searching for mud flaps I settled in on the WeatherTech no drill style mud flaps. I preferred the look of the molded flaps and chose these over the Husky Liner brand because these did not require drilling. The Husky did have a lifetime warranty with the WeatherTech having 3 years which is the same as the more expensive Duraflaps. This install is on a '13 2500 HD RC LB 4x4. About $80 for the set of four on-line and I bought these from WeatherTech's on-line site.

 

First, these are not going to do any flapping since they are made of a rigid plastic.

Install is very easy and the instructions are quite complete. On-line video if you need it but you won't. The front flaps install by removing the two metric hex head screws and two plastic rivets that are holding the front wheel liner to the fender. You re-use the two screws that you removed and re-use one rivet. The other rivet is replaced with a stainless nut and bolt that is provided. I had a little trouble getting the plastic rivet back in but with some pushing with the handle end of a screwdriver it finally snapped in and held. I'm not sure the middle rivet even needs to be used (or removed from the truck) but I was following the instructions.

The first pic shows the fit with the second showing the fasteners. The two screws are nearest the top then the plastic rivet. The bottom fastener is the stainless bolt that is replacing the second rivet that was removed during the install.

post-123362-0-40075100-1376874340_thumb.jpgpost-123362-0-63923600-1376874370_thumb.jpg

 

The install for the rear is even easier. The rear flaps use some clips that tighten to pinch the fender between the clip and the flap. First you hang the flap from a small bracket that sits over the lip of the fender. Then you rotate the flap to it's position and tighten the small clips with an allen wrench that I didn't know was included until I was finished with the install and found it in the bottom of the box.

The clips have a small piece coming through the flap that corresponds with lock-unlock markings on the inside of the flap. The first turn moves the clip into position and further turns tighten it to the fender. The little white piece showing in the second photo is the fender lip shining through.

post-123362-0-58275300-1376874730_thumb.jpg post-123362-0-74406500-1376874753_thumb.jpg

 

Coverage to the outside seems fine but the rear flaps could have been a little wider. The front tires are completely covered but about 3/4" of the inside of the back tire (stock tire) is exposed. We'll see how these hold up and I do wonder about cold weather since these are hard plastic. Time will tell.

 

Mike

 

 

 

post-123362-0-40075100-1376874340_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-63923600-1376874370_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-58275300-1376874730_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-74406500-1376874753_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-40075100-1376874340_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-63923600-1376874370_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-58275300-1376874730_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-74406500-1376874753_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-40075100-1376874340_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-63923600-1376874370_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-58275300-1376874730_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-74406500-1376874753_thumb.jpg

Heard Enthusiast

Heard

Posted
Posted

Hopefully this style works better for you then me. Had a set on my '08 and the amount of rock chips I received on the bottom of my doors and back quarter panel was crazy. I didn't hesitate a second with my new truck when deciding to put the rubber flaps back on.

Heard Enthusiast

Heard

Posted
Posted

The mud flaps I have now are just straight from the dealer. The plastic ones before were Husky. They held up very well. They just down go down far enough to stop the majority of gravel chips from our roads in Sask.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • mysery1
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By mysery1 · Posted

      I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • FiLo
      5.3 / 6.2 valve covers / oil burning

      By FiLo · Posted

      Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...