Jump to content

2014 Sierra audio help

dmd277

By dmd277
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

dmd277 Enthusiast

dmd277

Posted
Posted

I have a 2014 Sierra double cab with nav and the GM radio. Looking to upgrade the audio system and had a few questions. It I replace the stock speakers in the doors will it give me better sound? How do you remove the door panels to access the speakers? Can I install an amp without removing any dash panels? Carry tools in back seat don't have space for under seat speakers. Any assistance would be appreciated.

OhmMega Enthusiast

OhmMega

Posted
Posted

Take a look here for my install: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154545-2014-k2xx-silverado-system/

 

The front door panels have 6 screws I think, 2 in the handle grip, 1 in the latch release, 1 behind the trim under the switches and 2 on the bottom of the panel.

 

Rear door has 4 screws minus behind the trim and only 1 in the bottom of the panel.

 

Both door panels come strait off held on by lots of clips. They DONT hang down in the window seal like previous models.

 

New component speakers may improve the sound quality but your biggest improvement will be an amp.

dmd277 Enthusiast

dmd277

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info. Were is the best place to mount the amp and how to connect it to the audio system and speakers? Is it hard to remove the console? Do you have any recommendations for speakers and amp? I have electrical experience but little knowledge in car audio, I appreciate the help.

  • 2 weeks later...
dmd277 Enthusiast

dmd277

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Local stereo shop will install Alpine 6.5 speakers in the front and rear doors for $160.00 per pair. Is that a reasonable price and will the new speakers make a significant improvement in the audio in the truck? Any recommendations are appreciated.

OhmMega Enthusiast

OhmMega

Posted
Posted

Alpine makes some good, and not so good speakers. It depends on what's installed and their power rating, the factory radio isn't very strong.

dmd277 Enthusiast

dmd277

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry I should have given more info, the speakers are Alpine sps-610. Thanks

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...