Jump to content

Completely lost for lift and wheels


Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Do you have a gallery for your truck. That thing looks bad ass. Is it 1/2 ton w/ the camper mirrors?

Thanks. I don't have much of a gallery. I don't even know if I have pics in there. I do have a build thread though. And yes it's a 1/2 ton.

Posted

Update - So of course, of all the manufacturers for lifts and leveling kits that I have emailed, they have all responded except for BDS! Hahaha I will call them once I actually know when my truck will arrive. The whole process is just confusing.

 

I have heard on here that I can do a leveling kit and blocks in the back to get 4 inches and 2 inches respectively, but none of the manufacturers back that up.

 

I have asked about possible voiding of the warranty for installing a lift kit and Jennifer directed me to my dealership, who them promptly told me they will not install a lift.

 

Fabtech responded and told me they may have something, but they need to know if my truck will have factory aluminum or steel control arms. Anyone know? Jennifer is looking into it for me too. I ordered a Silverado 4X4 Crew Cab LTZ Z71 max tow.

 

I will definitely keep everyone posted and put up pictures once I get the truck and have it all done up!

 

Has anyone researched these Foose wheels before? http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Discount_Tires.cfm?pn=Foose-Rims-Outcast-20-8CH.s&pID=55055

 

Looks like they will not work with my truck, but I was hoping someone found something similar or a different version that will work. I absolutely fell in love with the OEM wheels that mxodarg has, but I am hesitant to go to 22" with the 4 inch life for fear it will affect ride quality, MPG, etc. Here is what I am referring to for those unfamiliar - http://www.shopchevyparts.com/wheels/2014-silverado-1500-wheel-inch-ck156-single/19301156-p-92277167.html

 

Thanks again guys! This forum is my favorite thing to look at every day!

Posted

Not quite. There is no good or safe way to level the front 4" without additional components. Companies like RC, Ready Lift, and Fabtech all make "budget" kits in that range, but partial diff drops and new UCA's don't correct everything. That's why complete kits cost so much more.

 

Refer to the Magnuson Moss warranty act for details on your warranty. A lift kit, in and of itself, will basically only void suspension parts. ie struts, ball joints, etc. Most dealers sell lifted trucks these days like hotcakes, so if you're worried, talk with your dealer. Plenty of dealerships will happily do your warranty work.

 

I don't have a clue which UCA's you have so I can't help you there.

 

Wheels...meh IMO. Don't look like they belong on a lifted rig to me. Anyway, mpg's won't be affected and neither will ride. Don't believe the hype about ride quality and wheel diameter. It's not like anyone is running low pros and 30's. Go drive an Escalade with 22's, and think about the phrase, "drives like a Caddi." You'll have even more sidewall than that.

Posted

Update from BDS.

 

The 4 inch lift is now available for the 4X4 and you can see it here - http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=5&mo=1&ty=1&yr=2014 (see the tab in the upper right hand corner)

 

I have been emailing with Ted at BDS who has been a great help! You will notice that they do not have support and spec listed for 22 inch wheels on their website. This is straight from Ted - "A 22X9-9.5” wheel with 5.75” total backspacing could be used with the BDS 4” suspension system an up to a 34X1150 or 33X12.50 tire."

 

With that info, I have decided to buy the BDS lift kit and these wheels - http://www.elementwheels.com/proddetail.asp?prod=xd778229677

How do I know which bolt pattern to get at the link?

 

What suggestions do you guys have for tires? I will be doing very little off-roading but I still want something that will look somewhat beefy. I like the Toyos, Nittos and have read on here that you can't go wrong with Bridgestones. Anything else I should be looking at?

Posted

Cool. In their notes it says:

 

"5. Trimming may be required for 35" tire clearance due to variation between tire brands."

 

I can live with that. I'll be getting an aftermarket bumper as well which opens things up in the front.

Posted

Update from BDS.

 

The 4 inch lift is now available for the 4X4 and you can see it here - http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=5&mo=1&ty=1&yr=2014 (see the tab in the upper right hand corner)

 

I have been emailing with Ted at BDS who has been a great help! You will notice that they do not have support and spec listed for 22 inch wheels on their website. This is straight from Ted - "A 22X9-9.5” wheel with 5.75” total backspacing could be used with the BDS 4” suspension system an up to a 34X1150 or 33X12.50 tire."

 

With that info, I have decided to buy the BDS lift kit and these wheels - http://www.elementwheels.com/proddetail.asp?prod=xd778229677

How do I know which bolt pattern to get at the link?

 

What suggestions do you guys have for tires? I will be doing very little off-roading but I still want something that will look somewhat beefy. I like the Toyos, Nittos and have read on here that you can't go wrong with Bridgestones. Anything else I should be looking at?

6 x5.5 and I'd goth with Toyo Muds. I'd also consider a more up to date wheel design.

Posted

6 x5.5 and I'd goth with Toyo Muds. I'd also consider a more up to date wheel design.

 

Blackout, do you have a suggestion for wheels? Or a solid brand? Or even a good place to look online. I had not idea the XD design I was looking at was old, I just found it online. Thanks!

Posted

Blackout, do you have a suggestion for wheels? Or a solid brand? Or even a good place to look online. I had not idea the XD design I was looking at was old, I just found it online. Thanks!

 

 

I always buy from Discount Tire. They will get anything and price match the web, but Rimz One is a popular site along with Mr. Wheel Deal. Fuel Wheels tend to make some of the more popular up-to-date wheel designs in an affordable range. Gear and Moto Metal also have some sharp wheels.

Posted

^^^^^ What Blackout said. I've had good luck with rimz one and Mr wheel deal. I also dealt with 4wheelparts, they took forever to ship my wheels though.

Posted

As usual, great help that I am very thankful for from all. I have been spending countless hours online looking at wheels and tires now that I am locked in with the BDS 4 inch lift. I was also told from Jennifer (GM Customer Service) that she is almost certain my suspension will be aluminum when she sent me my list of options to look over.

 

My next set of questions:

 

My installer is pretty confident that he can make the 35's and 22's work. He is one of the best in my area of LA (if not the best), and came highly recommended so I trust him.

 

It looks like most of the 22" wheels come in anywhere from 8.5-12.5 inch widths. What should I get to have the best chance at fitting with the least amount of trimming? Assuming 8.5, but wanted to confirm. Here is what Ted with BDS told me when I asked if he thought I would be able to make the 22"s and 35"s work - "That should work well. Given the wheel backspacing is 5.75” or close there too."

 

Does the trimming that everyone is referring to only happen on the inside of the wheel well? I assume nothing cosmetic on the outside would need to be trimmed, but I wanted to double check.

 

My biggest fear is that I order $4,000 worth of tires and wheels and in the end my guy can't get them to fit. Am I just better off having the lift installer put my stock tires and wheels on after his install and taking my truck to the place I order the tires and wheels from for install? My plan was to order the lift, wheels, and tires and have it all delivered to the lift install guy so he would know exactly how much trimming would be needed. Let me know the best way to go about this.

 

I have an appointment to meet with my lift guy next week, but I wanted to get some of the many expert opinions on here too.

 

Thanks guys! Can wait to share pics with you guys once she is complete!

Posted

There's not a lot of trimming and tire fitment info on the new trucks yet, but I'd be willing to bet that trimming will be required and it will certainly be in the fender well where it can't be seen. As far as wheels go, 8.5" wide is going to make for the easiest fit, but wont look great IMO. I would go no less than 10" wides.

Posted

Any idea how much I should expect to pay for installation of the 4 inch lift (will also be adding the Fox 2.0's to the rear) - http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=5&mo=1&ty=1&yr=2014

 

I found a dealer online who will sell it to me for $1,800 including tax and shipping, but I am not sure how much to budget for installation. I have asked a couple of installers and think I have the guy picked out that I want to go with, but what do you guys think?

 

Thanks

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Anyone have any info about backorder time? It's classic 4th of July hot here in ohio.
    • There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...