Jump to content

LOW OIL PRESSURE?!?

Grumpy Tooch

Recommended Posts

jsklenar Enthusiast

jsklenar

Posted
Posted

Your problem is the screen under the oil pressure switch. you need to remove the sensor again and take the screen out from under it. you can clean the screen but your best bet is to just replace it. I see this a lot and just replace the screens with the new sensors.

jsklenar Enthusiast

jsklenar

Posted
Posted

Your problem is the screen under the oil pressure sensor is clogged. you need to remove the sensor again, then remove the screen. you can clean it but you are better off getting a new one.

Grumpy Tooch Enthusiast

Grumpy Tooch

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Your problem is the screen under the oil pressure sensor is clogged. you need to remove the sensor again, then remove the screen. you can clean it but you are better off getting a new one.

holy crap, really? but i could barely see what i was doing to replace that thing...how do i get it out?

whitesnake01 Enthusiast

whitesnake01

Posted
Posted

My 05 had the gauge cluster problem. Some mornings my tranny temp would be at 250 the moment I turned the key. I also had oil pressure between 0 and 180 PSI, which was unsettling. I sent the cluster out for a rebuild, and it set me back about $125 including shipping. Works great now. Easy to replace. Drove the truck with just a Garmin while it was out for repair.

  • 3 weeks later...
Meek27 New Member

Meek27

Posted
Posted

Have been trying to search for this Topic Title. Can't find much info. Was wanting some help in this area.

 

2006 2500HD 6.0 Low Pressure Oil 162,000 Miles. 0 oil pressure on gage in truck, engine making lots of noise, Sounds almost like a pulley/bearing going out. I'm going to test pressure in sensor spot today with mechanical gage. Thinking its the Oil Pump. Was wondering if someone would point me in the right direction as to how to change oil pump by steps. With maybe some diagrams.

Rogue Leader Enthusiast

Rogue Leader

Posted
Posted

Have been trying to search for this Topic Title. Can't find much info. Was wanting some help in this area.

 

2006 2500HD 6.0 Low Pressure Oil 162,000 Miles. 0 oil pressure on gage in truck, engine making lots of noise, Sounds almost like a pulley/bearing going out. I'm going to test pressure in sensor spot today with mechanical gage. Thinking its the Oil Pump. Was wondering if someone would point me in the right direction as to how to change oil pump by steps. With maybe some diagrams.

 

The Chilton manual has a decent write up on this, just be prepared, you need to raise the motor a bit to be able to get the oil pan out with the motor still in the car. While you're down there if you can get to the rear main seal you may as well change that. (Might as well put in a new oil pan too! they are cheap, and do rust) This is a long and tedious job.

 

That said, engine making a lot of noise, probably is a bearing. You can change them while you have the pan out of course, but that MIGHT not solve the problem, if its a cam bearing then you need to take the top of the motor apart as well and pull the cam. May as well pull and rebuild the motor while you are at it, it will be a shitload easier to do the work.

 

Your oil pump may well be perfectly fine, oil needs friction to make pressure. If the bearings are shot even the best oil pump won't solve your problems.

Meek27 New Member

Meek27

Posted
Posted

 

The Chilton manual has a decent write up on this, just be prepared, you need to raise the motor a bit to be able to get the oil pan out with the motor still in the car. While you're down there if you can get to the rear main seal you may as well change that. (Might as well put in a new oil pan too! they are cheap, and do rust) This is a long and tedious job.

 

That said, engine making a lot of noise, probably is a bearing. You can change them while you have the pan out of course, but that MIGHT not solve the problem, if its a cam bearing then you need to take the top of the motor apart as well and pull the cam. May as well pull and rebuild the motor while you are at it, it will be a shitload easier to do the work.

 

Your oil pump may well be perfectly fine, oil needs friction to make pressure. If the bearings are shot even the best oil pump won't solve your problems.

Wow that's a lot of work... lol but thank you for the reply. A friend is coming over to look at it and help me do a oil pressure test to check that first. Will give you and update on it after that thanks

Rogue Leader Enthusiast

Rogue Leader

Posted
Posted

Wow that's a lot of work... lol but thank you for the reply. A friend is coming over to look at it and help me do a oil pressure test to check that first. Will give you and update on it after that thanks

 

Ok good luck! Keep us updated

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ryan35205
      Lets Talk Z60 Suspension

      By ryan35205 · Posted

      Did the KYBs keep it the same height in the front? I was concerned that pre-assembled assembly would raise it up an inch to standard non-z60 height.. I guess which it would make the rake 1 inch instead of 2 inches.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Thank you for keeping the train on the tracks and for a thoughtful engagement. I enjoyed the reflection on a previous stance to refine and improve your position. I like that inquisitive flexibility about you Atlas.    No the process isn't sterile. Hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles of piping, vessels, pumps. Chevron, the people I worked for, were keenly aware that there is a market for what is known as their "ISOCLEAN" line of lubricants. These are lubricants that are the same as those sold bulk that are further processed by filtration to a level your particular application demands. They will filter and package and provide lab documentation as required. Do not kid yourself. Every gallon of oil that goes into a Chevron Turbine, reciprocating compressor, generator is prefiltered and tested before being charged. Lest wise it was when I was there in the plants I worked in.    There are requirements set by manufactures for the cleanliness of the oils used in their equipment. OTR such as CUMMINS has standards shared with customers on this. Commercial interest selling to Ma and Pa do, but don't share that information. Not even upon request but internally, they do exist.    The GM study sited, (Graph from Machinery Lubrication in previous post) only shows "relative" importance.  I find that fascinating. By constructing the graph like this they admit there are dozens of factors in engine life and via scientific method determined the effect of 'relative cleanliness' on engine life not in miles but in 'FACTORS'. This allows a certain amount of reverse engineering does it not?   They even provided some touchstones. Beta 75 as a reference point. Wonderful stuff!!   Smaller blenders CAN and some DO take the time and effort to do better than a refinery or large bulk blender, like Warren Oil, in improving the "in the can" cleanliness. No I don't have a list but testing could generate that information.    Again, but one of several levers we can pull to improve engine life. The simplest is keeping a clean work station while doing your own oil changes.     
    • Mykel544
      New Guy from Oklahoma

      By Mykel544 · Posted

      Thank you. I'll give it a try 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I just spent the last 45K miles doing samples every oil change over more than a full year to get the data for seasons and break-in to broke in.    I found the same thing to be true. Something was always teetering on done or had stepped off the cliff long before the OLM was DOA. In fact, I found about a thousand mile difference between summer and winter. That is during the winter half the OLM was STILL too long. Even the severe schedule was to long in the winter.   Now having done the work I can say I was NOT DISAPOINTED. I saw nothing I didn't already know. Nothing my father hadn't already demonstrated in his 2K OCI's pushing dated iron on dated oils and weak filters to mileages well beyond 300K.   Building on his work through use of Lab testing it wasn't hard to find the correlation between 'sight/feel/odor, the things dad relied on, and test results. Use of current viscosity stable chemistries & filters has pushed that marker for my motors out to 3K summer, 4K winter.    So the early lies were 3K on conventional oil and the lie upon the lie was 7K+. turns out to be off by a factor of two.    So... it is true that modern chemistry has doubled the useful oil life. But the base milage that came from was off by double. It's how good lies work. Partly true, sometimes mostly true so that your meter isn't set off. It also means that non-shear-stable shelf oils are only now as good as the old oils were in their best case scenario.    So the question now is how do we improve on that? Thus the question into cleanliness among the other items listed in the post quoted below.    If this bores you, feel free not to participate.       
    • newdude
      2027 Chevrolet Silverado: Official Discussion

      By newdude · Posted

      Is it though?  Like LTZ, not a high take rate.  Current Sierra has AT4, Denali and Elevation as its main bread winners.  Each trim accounting for 25-35% of sales for Sierra.  SLT makes up about 10-15% at best.        Like others have predicted here for GMC, it will be:   - Pro (equal to WT Chevy)   - Elevation (replaces SLE and SLT)   - AT4 (and X)   - Denali (and Ultimate).  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...