Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

There is no one shim fits all, that's why pinion shims do not come with any kits on the market... tolerance stack ups in the frame will make each truck slightly different and some more pronounced than others. If I were you I'd buy some 2 degree shims and after you lower it see how it does. You may not need them. I ran into this on my 2013 crew cab most people with the exact same drop kit had no trouble and after much research is why I bought THAT kit, but mine was so far out of whack it was almost ridiculous. It also made me not want to lower this 2014 as much as I did my previous truck just to steer clear of issues on another brand new truck.

well then how do you measure for it?

 

do you just get a ground clearance measurements like you do for the fenders for before and after then shim to return it to the same rough measurements from front yoke of rear end to a flat spot near the rear of it?

Posted

Refer to timfactors post. You'll need a magnetic angle finder and it's measured after you lower the vehicle and get the ride height set (suspension has settled).

Posted (edited)

In regards to lowering a vehicle, if the leafs are on top of the axle, the thick part of the wedge/shim goes to the rear of truck. If the leafs are under the axle, the thick part of the wedge/shim goes to the front of truck. This will pitch the differential up toward the bed of truck back to the proper angle compensating for the downward pitch caused by installing drop shackles. Shackles change the geometry of the leaf springs and roll the differential downward towards the ground. The wedges set the angle back near factory settings restoring harmonic balance of the drive shaft. Hope this helps.

Edited by whodatfan
Posted (edited)

In regards to lowering a vehicle, if the leafs are on top of the axle, the thick part of the wedge/shim goes to the rear of truck. If the leafs are under the axle, the thick part of the wedge/shim goes to the front of truck. This will pitch the differential up toward the bed of truck back to the proper angle compensating for the downward pitch caused by installing drop shackles. Shackles change the geometry of the leaf springs and roll the differential downward towards the ground. The wedges set the angle back near factory settings restoring harmonic balance of the drive shaft. Hope this helps.

thanks because that picture showed the axle under the springs but the wedge was backwards for what happens when you are lowering

 

the thing is how do you go about to measure that angle? just a straight edge laid across the yoke and a set point distance out from the yoke?

 

this actual procedure and how to do it correctly and accurately is something I haven't seen anyone post or provide a link to how to do it

Edited by keakar
Posted

Hey guys I've been lurking around here trying to get as much info as I can, I should be ordering a RCSB 4WD (it snows here) this week and I plan on doing a 2/4 drop on it.

 

Anyway I thought this might be helpful for those of you with vibration issues

http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/files/Universal_Joint_Alignment_Proc_111606.pdf

 

Also does anyone know why you can't buy a flip kit for a 4WD? Is the rear axle different in some way?

Here's where I posted some instructions way back in this thread
Posted

well then how do you measure for it?

 

do you just get a ground clearance measurements like you do for the fenders for before and after then shim to return it to the same rough measurements from front yoke of rear end to a flat spot near the rear of it?

 

Posted (edited)

thanks guys, that looks complicated and math makes my head hurt lol

 

I guess I could bring it to cottman transmission and have them check it when im done

Edited by keakar
Posted

thanks guys, that looks complicated and math makes my head hurt lol

 

I guess I could bring it to cottman transmission and have them check it when im done

Really for what we're doing you just need to get the diff on the same angle as the trans. If you're using lowering shackles the diff is going to get turned downward toward the ground due to the rear of the springs going up. In order to correct this you need to install the shim with the fat part toward the rear. If you're using a flip kit with less than the full 7 inches of drop, the opposite is ture because they lower the rear of the spring to reduce the amount of drop so you would put the fat part of the shim to the front
Posted

Really for what we're doing you just need to get the diff on the same angle as the trans. If you're using lowering shackles the diff is going to get turned downward toward the ground due to the rear of the springs going up. In order to correct this you need to install the shim with the fat part toward the rear. If you're using a flip kit with less than the full 7 inches of drop, the opposite is ture because they lower the rear of the spring to reduce the amount of drop so you would put the fat part of the shim to the front

ya I got that part but I also see when the springs rotate upward the angle will change on bot sides, the tranny side and the axle side angles will be different so its more then one angle changing so I cant just restore the axle to the same as it was because it would at that point need to be set differently from the first angle it was at.

 

it doesn't look too hard but it does look hard enough that I could easily get it wrong and if I change it I want it to be right not just "good enough" if you know what I mean.

Posted

ya I got that part but I also see when the springs rotate upward the angle will change on bot sides, the tranny side and the axle side angles will be different so its more then one angle changing so I cant just restore the axle to the same as it was because it would at that point need to be set differently from the first angle it was at.

 

it doesn't look too hard but it does look hard enough that I could easily get it wrong and if I change it I want it to be right not just "good enough" if you know what I mean.

Yes the angle between the driveshaft and the Trans will change but that's OK because as long as there's at least .5 degree of angle between them to keep the u joint moving your ok. With the amount of drop your talking about I don't see you having a problem there. The only angles that are going to cause a vibration are the diff and trans themselves because if they aren't the same they won't cancel out the movement of the u joint
Posted

Yes the angle between the driveshaft and the Trans will change but that's OK because as long as there's at least .5 degree of angle between them to keep the u joint moving your ok. With the amount of drop your talking about I don't see you having a problem there. The only angles that are going to cause a vibration are the diff and trans themselves because if they aren't the same they won't cancel out the movement of the u joint

so your saying if I do the 2" drop shackle and remove the 1.25" spacer block over the axle then that's not much of a change so I don't need to recalibrate for a shim

Posted

No. That is not what he is saying. He said don't worry about the trans angle because you didn't alter it's geometry by installing shackles. It's the rear end that was rotated out of tolerance. If you get a vibration at speed, you need to shim the rear differential up to remove it. Don't worry about the front of the drive shaft and transmission. It's fine.

Posted

You need to measure the front to find out how far off the rear is though. Get the front angle, then the rear, and that will tell you what size shim you need.

Posted

You need to measure the front to find out how far off the rear is though. Get the front angle, then the rear, and that will tell you what size shim you need.

ok, but I already have the "built in" "chevy designed it that way" vibration so im wondering if I can fix that issue with shims before I go messing with lowering it.

Posted

ok, but I already have the "built in" "chevy designed it that way" vibration so im wondering if I can fix that issue with shims before I go messing with lowering it.

I also have that vibration and am hoping to fix it myself also

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 289 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...