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2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

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mjw930 Enthusiast

mjw930

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm looking for the best way to lower the rear of my 2014 2WD 1500 about 1.5". That will still give it about a 1.5" rake which should mean level when I'm towing. I considered drop shackles but was reading about removing the rear lift plate that's between the axle and spring.

 

My question is can the leaf spring sit directly on the axle or is some sort of spacer / bushing required for proper alignment and isolation?

Edited by mjw930
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Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

JRoss14 Enthusiast

JRoss14

Posted
Posted

I'm looking for the best way to lower the rear of my 2014 2WD 1500 about 1.5". That will still give it about a 1.5" rake which should mean level when I'm towing. I considered drop shackles but was reading about removing the rear lift plate that's between the axle and spring.

 

My question is can the leaf spring sit directly on the axle or is some sort of spacer / bushing required for proper alignment and isolation?

I'm thinking about doing the same, let me know how it goes if you get to it first and I'll do the same.

roadblock Enthusiast

roadblock

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys, I may get to it this weekend, if the to do list isn't too long :)

Take pics of the process!

Binny Enthusiast

Binny

Posted
Posted

If you remove the blocks, make sure you install new U-bolts and retorque after two weeks.

  • Like 1
mjw930 Enthusiast

mjw930

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

If you remove the blocks, make sure you install new U-bolts and retorque after two weeks.

It's interesting you would say that. I know there's a lot of opinions on this and other forums. Many saying to use new and just as many saying they didn't and nothing bad happened so I did a search looking for what I would consider a reliable source and came up with this:

 

 

 

HOWEVER, read the following transcript:

 

John,

 

Quality aftermarket u-bolts are made to SAE standard J429 using SAE1541 steel. 1541 provide a 150,00 PSI minimum tensile strength, and 130,000 PSI minimum yield strength and a 120,00 PSI proof load. So stretching, or exceeding the yield is not something one needs to be concerned with.

 

The reason u-bolts should be replaced after they have been torque is because the threads are rolled, not cut.

 

Because of this the threads are distorted when torqued. This distortion will not allow the torqued to be maintained when the nuts are loosened then retightened.

 

Because loose u-bolts are the main cause of broken springs, we suggest that they be re-torqued. While the springs are new and the u-bolts are new, the rest of the suspension is aged and will have wear. It is common that the new parts receive additional stress than the older parts.

 

Re-torqueing continues to move the nut up to new threads.

 

Bottom line is we recommend that the u-bolts be replaced once they have been torqued to spec. Whether one does so or not is their choice.

 

-Mike

 

SO, since removing the block moves the nut 1" further up the threads you are using virgin threads and should be able to apply the proper torque and have that torque retained. Of course, if you decide to go back to using the block then you need new bolts because you will be back into the area of the threads that were deformed by the original installation. No new bolts needed for this operation, only if I go back to using the blocks.

 

The re-torque after two weeks perplexes me. Are there guys running around dealer lots re torquing u-bolts? How is it the factory can install them and they are good for years but I need to re-torque?

 

Perhaps this is due to the explanation above where old parts wear different than new, which seems a bit far fetched to me AND I doubt the movement on the bolt would be more than a few hundreds so you aren't going to get into any significant "new" threads as mentioned above. Since the Truck is all of 2 weeks old I don't think the old parts vs. new is an issue but I will check just to see if there's any truth to the legend.

 

Has anyone who's played around with u-bolts ever seen them loosen up after a few hundred miles or is this more urban legend than sound engineering?

 

Edited by mjw930
  • 1 month later...
brentadams646 Enthusiast

brentadams646

Posted
Posted

I have found plenty of pictures of trucks with the front ends leveled but can't seem to find ANY of the new Silverado or Sierra with a leveled rear suspension using 1-2" drop shackles. Anyone have any pictures?

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

I do, here is mine with the belltech rear 2" drop shackle kit on my 2014 All Terrain. Before and after....

 

before

1471956_787280251297858_316583635_n.jpg

 

 

after

999457_787280264631190_83598123_n.jpg

  • Like 3
TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

Don't let the after fool you, the street in front of my house is on a slight incline and the sun was to the left of the truck, it sits level now with 6.25" from top of tire to bottom of fender on both ends.

  • Like 1
brentadams646 Enthusiast

brentadams646

Posted
Posted

Don't let the after fool you, the street in front of my house is on a slight incline and the sun was to the left of the truck, it sits level now with 6.25" from top of tire to bottom of fender on both ends.

 

Awesome man, I was just wondering how level it actually made it since some leveling shackles still leave a slight rake in the rear. I hear people talking about removing the blocks from the rear, did you just install the leveling shackles only or remove the blocks as well? Beautiful truck btw!

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

Shackles only, I mentioned the blocks to my buddy whos shop did and he said to only do the shackles. The block looks to be 1.5-2 thick.

 

If you do the shackles it will take 1-2 hours, you have to drop the rear hitch assembly to get the shackle bolts out from what the shop told me. I don't mind the slight rake, looks way better than the stock look. I wont ever run a larger tire so that is why I went this way over the front lift kit (moves the lower shock mounts up 2" instead), plus then you have to get a front end alignment as well.

 

If you do the rear you will need to take at least 2 360° turns out of the front headlight adjusters to get them down some. It is super easy and that is a estimate, even with 2 turns out the lights are still up a bit from the factory setting(which I think is too low, I am sure it is low incase of weight in the bed which then levels the lights out).

JRoss14 Enthusiast

JRoss14

Posted
Posted

I'll be installing shackles and removing the blocks on mine over the holidays as well. I'll try to get some before/after pics up. Tjay did you cut your bump stops down, replace with shorter bump stops or did you even mess with them?

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

If you do the shackles and blocks you will be dropping more than the 2" the shackles provide. I did nothing to the bump stops.

roadblock Enthusiast

roadblock

Posted
Posted

What brand you guys using? Where did you get them?

Install them yourself?

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