Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What brand you guys using? Where did you get them?

Install them yourself?

 

I am getting the 2" McGaughys shackles, I've read nothing but good things about their products.

  • Like 1
Posted

So I had my local shop put on a rear shackle kit to lower the rear of my truck down 2" and level it out. Truck looked great and around town seemed to ride fine. The truck is a 2014 Sierra crew cab with the All Terrain package (factory Rancho shocks).

 

While driving on our trip this weekend and hitting some decent bumps and dips in the road it has now become apparent that since the truck is now 2" lower that the shock is blowing thru it travel due to being lower in the shock valving. I called Rancho this morning and they confirmed this, they also said they are not sure if they will offer any options for a shock that needs to be 2" lower in the shock travel until after 1st quarter of 2014.

 

They suggested lifting the front as the better option (plus they were pushing their quicklift front kit which comes ready to go out of box and replaces the front strut assembly) or my other option will be to get the front spacer lift kit and go that route. Only other option it to get the stock rear shock mounting styles, the compressed and extended measurements and see if Rancho can come up with a shock that will work on the rear. Right now they don't have the full specs on this shock yet from their OE side.

 

Now I am on the fence, I hate to lift the front as it will look stupid since I have zero intentions of ever running a larger tire.

  • Like 1
Posted

Couldn't you just change the rear shocks? I don't think I'll have a problem with this since I have a 2wd LTZ non z71. I hope.

Posted

Changing the rear shocks would be ideal, but Rancho does not have the specs yet for the OEM shocks they are making for GM and they don't have an option yet. Only way to try and find something is to get the mounting types, and then the shock measurements and see if they have something that will work. Otherwise I may have to upgrade to the 5000 series which is their adjustable shock.

Posted

I don't want to go Bilstien since the truck is brand new and has the AT package with the Rancho shocks, would rather stay with Rancho.

Posted (edited)

Go with a different brand of shock

Edited by Chris
Posted

why the hell do you want to lower it anyhow? If you want it leveled raise the front. The correct way to level it would be a suspension level not a block kit, use the leveling shocks from Bilstein rather than the crap rancho makes.

Posted

Some people dont want any lift. If I didn't tow I would have a lowered truck.

Posted

Exactly, I have zero plans of running a bigger tire and don't want the extra clearance in the fender wells making it look like crap. I also don't want Bilstien shocks either, truck has the Rancho shocks on it and I have used Rancho in the past so I plan on staying with them if at all possible.

Posted

why the hell do you want to lower it anyhow? If you want it leveled raise the front. The correct way to level it would be a suspension level not a block kit, use the leveling shocks from Bilstein rather than the crap rancho makes.

 

Dude what are you talking about?! lol nothing you said makes sense...

 

1) Lifting or lowering - it's a personal preference, what you think is your own opinion. Bet you're one of those people that think a lowered truck is ruined...

 

2) He didn't lower the truck with a "block kit". This is a full size truck, the rear end sits UNDER the leaf springs from the factory, a block kit would raise the rear.

 

3) He used lowering shackles to level the rear end, it's clearly stated in the original post.

 

4) If Rancho is crap then that sucks for you, your truck has the same shocks and suspension according to your signature since you both have 2014 Sierra All-Terrain's.

  • Like 3
  • Haha 1
Posted

Take off your bump stops, you're probably bottoming out on them. It feels about the same as bottoming out a shock. This happened all the time on my last truck until I took them off, then it rode like factory. Your factory shocks shouldn't bottom out with the shackles only. Also, Belltech makes a shock extender bracket, so that you can retain the original shocks with any drop.

Posted

I may try the bump stops next, nice to know about the shock extenders.

  • Like 1
Posted

I realize shackles will lower the rear, just curious if any one has removed the rear 2" blocks. In my simple mind that would be the easiest way to level the rear with the front. As far as the U-bolt, once the blocks are removed, your on new threads so in my mind you would not need new ones.

 

Anyone ??

 

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I apologize for long post put going to try to explain everything. Parts replaced so far: Cam sensor Crank sensor Cam phaser valve Cam phaser solenoid Fuel pump Maf 1 injector Pcm Pdm   So about 2 weeks ago coming off the highway my 2007 yukon xl with the 6.2 stalled and would restart. Had unit towed back to house and I messed around with relays and unit started. Drove it the next day and same thing. Had it towed again. Scanned unit and had code p0300 with misfire data showing mainly cylinder 7 but I know that won't cause a no start. Measure fuel pressure and found only 42 psi replaced pump to have unit stall again and not restart. This time I stayed on back roads and just waited for it to restart about 30 to 60 min. During this time I found I have no injector pulse but have good power at injectors. Started unplugging 1 injector at a time and found when unplugging cylinder 7 pulse came back so i changed injecto and same issue. Turns out unit just happen to ready to start at that time. Scanned into unit and found no reason for the pcm to take away injector pulse so I replaced the pcm and same issue. I figured timing sesnor controlled the injector pulse so I replaced both sensors and while I had the water pump of i replaced the vvt components while i was in there. Read multiple people have luck chaging the maf for this issue so I changed it. Unit still stalls to this day and loses injector pulse on the ground side when it does. Have noticed watching the live data the pcm is request injectors to fire via injector pwm value. I have redone the ground wires at the left bottom of the block knowing this was the ground location for the pcm but still no luck. I am a mechanic by trade but this is having me pull my hair out. If anyone has something to have me check I will gladly im not much of a parts thrower but im about to load the cannon
    • Actually.  Wait.   I just re-read your original post.  Are you talking from INSIDE the truck you have to hit unlock?  Or from the key fob?  I had assumed from the key fob.   IF you are talking the inside unlock button, I assume you are shifting to park and its not unlocking the doors?  If so, that is changed via the settings page in the radio.  Go to SETTINGS, then VEHICLE and then it should be under LOCKS or DOOR LOCKS or something like that.  
    • Just pull the inside door handle.  It has mechanical override to the lock.  
    • Got to have those sliding doors. One of my favorite things about a minivan. The Kia does a good job of making a minivan look like an SUV. I may do a Toyota next. I want the awd option.
    • I took my 24 Sierra Denali 4wd in at 37,000 miles. Had the mileage maintenance checks done, asked them to change out the two limited slip differentials, including the limited slip additive, and change out the transfer case fluid. They rotated my tires, verified my shocks weren’t leaking, and whatever minor checkouts that were on the list for 37,000 miles. About three hours later, they charged me $600 and sent me off. I was considering having the 10-speed transmission serviced, but between the posts on this forum and previous experiences with transmission failures after a fluid and filter change, I decided against the tranny fluid changeout when the service advisor told me it would take about 3 hours and cost about $500. After growing up working in three different full-service gas stations, I know to stay far away from flushing machines connected to any automatic transmission. I don’t meet the severe duty schedule, but I may follow the 45,000 mile tranny service, unless  i see more problems from doing so on the forums. I expect I will want to watch the entire procedure. The various utube videos do a decent job of showing how much time and attention should be taken for a correct fluid &filter replacement, so witnessing the procedure seems something I should do. Trust but Verify🥳 Otherwise, I’ll follow the owner’s manual recommendations, whatever they are.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...