2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

brentadams646 · February 10, 2014

Did the lowering shackles and it's still 3/4" higher in the back. A Forum member suggested that I replace the stock spring block, which is 2.25" thick, with one that's 1/2" thick. That should take care of that. I ordered them yesterday so maybe I can get them on this week. It sucks to be anal:). Tapatalk via iPhone 5s

The factory is actually 1.257" thick, another member posted a picture of one with a caliper to measure its thickness

LTZTom · February 10, 2014

Did the lowering shackles and it's still 3/4" higher in the back. A Forum member suggested that I replace the stock spring block, which is 2.25" thick, with one that's 1/2" thick. That should take care of that. I ordered them yesterday so maybe I can get them on this week. It sucks to be anal:). Tapatalk via iPhone 5s The factory is actually 1.257" thick, another member posted a picture of one with a caliper to measure its thickness

I meant 1.25...DUHHHH

. Tapatalk via iPhone 5s Edited February 11, 2014 by LTZTom

TxTruckMan · February 12, 2014

How hard are the drop shackles to install? Can it be done in a grage by one person with normal tools? What's the most difficult part?

Thanks.

Chris · February 12, 2014

I think the fuel tank needs to be dropped so the left can be pulled

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brentadams646 · February 12, 2014

I think the fuel tank needs to be dropped so the left can be pulled

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Not true. Takes about an hour. Receiver hitch will need to come down to get bolt out on one side. Should take about 1-2 hours depending on how fast you work.

LTZTom · February 14, 2014

Post a good side pic and f/r measurements if you get yours done before me lol

And sorry man didn't read all the way. Wasn't meaning to come off as rude.

I got tired of jacking around with waiting for somebody to do my lowering blocks so I just did it myself today. Turned out GREAT. I'm attaching some pics for you below. The only thing I forgot to get for you was the front measurement but after looking at the pics you'll see it's PERFECT!! I'll be looking for pics of yours tomorrow!!

This is the rear measurement.

Edited February 14, 2014 by LTZTom

LTZTom · February 14, 2014

Here's one I forgot .

Chris · February 14, 2014

So you got a new block instead of shackles?

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LTZTom · February 14, 2014

So you got a new block instead of shackles? Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

No. I got 2" shackles too but it was still about ¾" too high in the rear so I removed the factory block that was approximately 1¼" and replaced it with a ½" block to make up the difference. Now it's PERFECT!!!

brentadams646 · February 14, 2014

In that last pic, is the rear like super close to the bump stop???

LTZTom · February 14, 2014

So you got a new block instead of shackles? Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

No. I also have the 2" shackles but it was still about ¾" too high in the rear. Thanks to brentadams646 I found out about the blocks. I replaced the factory 1¼" with a ½" block and that made up the difference. Now it's perfect!

LTZTom · February 14, 2014

No. I got 2" shackles too but it was still about ¾" too high in the rear so I removed the factory block that was approximately 1¼" and replaced it with a ½" block to make up the difference. Now it's PERFECT!!!

WHOOPS!!! I did this twice because I couldn't find the first one . DUHHHHHH!!

LTZTom · February 14, 2014

In that last pic, is the rear like super close to the bump stop???

I didn't notice it being too close. Maybe it's just an optical illusion. I drove it quite a bit after I got done and it rode just like it always did. We have "speed humps" in our neighborhood and didn't notice a bit of difference in negotiating those stupid things. It rides like it did the day I picked it up from the dealer. I just couldn't be happier. Thanks Brent!!!!!

Edited February 14, 2014 by LTZTom

brentadams646 · February 14, 2014

Dude it looks perfect!!!!!! Mine goes to the shop tomorrow at 8am. Glad everything worked out just right! Take a hack saw with a blade for cutting steel (fine tooth) and saw off the bump stop at the first indention from the bottom. I've done it before.

And you're welcome man!

Edited February 14, 2014 by brentadams646

TJay74 · February 14, 2014

I need to cut my bump stops, plan on doing it once it warms up. Only bad about leveling the rear is it moves the shock up 2" into the valving range. I have found on hard dips the truck will blow thru the valving pretty quick and allow the rear end to bottom out and hit the bumps stops. I am waiting on Rancho to get the OEM specs for the shocks and see if they make a shock that will work with a leveled setup.