Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm spec'ing some Vi-king shocks right now. Wheels...probably the 2014 Silverado 18" OEM powder coated gunmetal gray.

 

Mounting the spare in the bed. Custom exhaust with a center rear exit like the Chevy Cheyenne shown at SEMA.

 

Denny's driveshaft and drive shaft loops.

 

FI. Leaning toward a Whipple right now.

 

 

I'd be half way there if I hadn't spent the last month screwing around with this Belltech 988 kit.

 

Posted

Finally got mine sorted out. But I wouldn't recommend this kit for a RCSB. In addition to jacking with pinion shims and transmission spacers, the driveshaft needed to be shortened 1.5". As the yutes would say, sketchy.

wow never heard of anybody having to shorten the driveshaft when istalling a flipkit, and i thought pinion shims and transmision spacers were only for crew cabs and extended cabs because of the two piece driveshaft.

Posted

If I had to guess, the changes they made to the kit so you don't have to jack with that stuff on CC & DB models, had the opposite effect for RC models.

 

Posted

I dropped mine 2/4 with a mcgaughys kit spring relocators in the front and flip kit hangers and shackles for the rear I went with belltech shocks I have no vibration issues.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Looks good, I've decided to go with the Belltech 3/5 - 4/6 adjustable drop PN#996. I'll have to lower it 3/5 until I get wheels, the factory tires on the LTZ 20's are too tall and wide and will rub when lowered 4/6.

 

1658451_714625681893653_2071964821_o.jpg

 

1796933_714625731893648_903174984_o.jpg

Edited by brentadams646
  • Like 3
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

For those who put a 2" lowering shackle and modified the bump stop on their 2014 silverado, did you have any problems with the shocks or any problems at all?? Would you recommend use lowering shackles??

 

I cant decide if i want to do this or not. I just dont want to run into problems

Posted

i removed only the rear blocks and i have 1" difference from front to back. sitting in a parking lot or on the street it looks great. I didn't want to have to pay to level it out or adjust anything.

 

FYI I had a 2012 AWD Denali and any time you leveled with a spacer on the front people reported vibration due to the front drive shaft being stretched too far, so on mine I removed the 1.5" block from the back. Did the same on my 2014 and it looks and rides amazing for costing $0.00

Posted

Is anyone else having the low speed vibration with 2" drop shackles on their 2014? It's a very mild vibration from about 25 to 32 MPH. After a quick search, it seems fairly common on other years. I'm wondering if lowering 1" with the shackles and removing the blocks will cure it as it seems to have to do with the angle caused by the 2" shackle drop.

 

Also, mine is still about 1.4" higher in the rear with the drop. (2WD RCSB) I'm fine with it, but thought I would let people know for reference.

Posted

Looks good, I've decided to go with the Belltech 3/5 - 4/6 adjustable drop PN#996. I'll have to lower it 3/5 until I get wheels, the factory tires on the LTZ 20's are too tall and wide and will rub when lowered 4/6.

 

1658451_714625681893653_2071964821_o.jpg

 

1796933_714625731893648_903174984_o.jpg

 

So I've had this kit on for about 2K miles. You will need helper bags if you plan on loading up the bed. I actually raised mine up an inch in the rear to help out with towing and putting loads in the bed. Now it doesn't appear the rear is sagging and it's more even all the way around. I also discovered neither the stock 18" wheels will not fit without cutting the balljoint stud way down. Even after doing that the spare will not fit on the front. I also have a pretty good vibration from 55mph - 66 mph. But it was like this before lowering the truck. My pinion angle is spot on. The front valance will have to go for me, my wife already destroyed that.

Posted

Is anyone else having the low speed vibration with 2" drop shackles on their 2014? It's a very mild vibration from about 25 to 32 MPH. After a quick search, it seems fairly common on other years. I'm wondering if lowering 1" with the shackles and removing the blocks will cure it as it seems to have to do with the angle caused by the 2" shackle drop.

 

Also, mine is still about 1.4" higher in the rear with the drop. (2WD RCSB) I'm fine with it, but thought I would let people know for reference.

I had read that some people were getting a little vibration and that's why I went ahead and bought a 3* shim kit for the rear. Mine did not have the vibration after lowering so I didn't install them but you can pick them up at most auto parts stores, Auto Zone had them in stock.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...