Jump to content

Rear Differential Oil: Making My Head Spin


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have been in the process of changing my fluids in my 2002 Envoy and finding the correct oil for the limited slip rear is giving me a headache!

 

I started out going to use Mobil 1 75W90, but on some other forums folks contacted Mobil and they said not to use it. Fine, I accept that from the company, thanks Mobile for being honest and upfront.

 

Ok with that off the list, I went back to the owners manual and it called for 4 pints of GM#12378261 meeting spec 9986115 75W90.

 

I called two dealerships and both told me I needed part number 88900401 at $27.58/qt.

 

So, off I went to the closest one. The bottle said: ACDELCO Synthetic Axle Lubricant 10-4016 / 88900401. No where on the bottle did it reference the 9986115 specification or say anything about limited slip friction modifiers. All it said was "heavy duty extreme pressure GL-5 lubricant".

 

I questioned the parts guy and he double checked in his computer and verified it was the right fluid.

 

So I came back home, drained the rear and pumped it in.

 

Now I am really double doubting what I did.

 

Did I just screw the pooch using the wrong stuff or am I just over thinking this job????

Posted

Do you have code G80 or G86? G80 does not require LS additive because it is a locker. The additive could do damage. G86 is a Limited Slip and usually found in cars. It would need the additive

Posted

Do you have code G80 or G86? G80 does not require LS additive because it is a locker. The additive could do damage. G86 is a Limited Slip and usually found in cars. It would need the additive

I just looked on the glove box door and there seems to be a G80 code there! - along with about 60 others.

Posted

ghe G80 is what matters for your oil. Based on your vin tge dealership parts counter gave you the oil right? If it was incorrect keep your receipt because your vin should be mentioned and they are at fault. Being that they ran your vin code G80 came up and they should have gave you oil that DID NOT have LS additive. You said the lube had no mention of the additive which leads me to think its the right fluid.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...