Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2006 Silverado 1500 with the following problem

Intermittently - All dash gauges cut out and charging light, security warning light- light up. radio also cuts out ... I think electric door locks and windows also don't work....once I depress the brake pedal all comes back until it happens again 10 sec to several minutes later. Dash lights, headlights, tach, speedometer, heater fans stay on - engine never skips a beat...happens moving and idling...brake pedal always fixes it ... can happen 10 times per minutes or can go 5-10 minutes w/o it happening... very frustrating -any suggestions?

 

Posted

Always check the battery condition. Battery cables/connections including body grounds

Posted

Is the megafuse the 125 amp one that is not visable unless you remove the plastic surrounding the the fuse box under the hood? I've seen reference to a 175 amp one on the firewall in 2008...but doesn't appear to be there on the 2006?

Posted (edited)

My truck in a 2006 GMC Sierra. A couple of years ago I had a bunch of unusual and seemingly unrelated electrical problems. Check engine light illuminated dimly, cruise control worked but would not shut off with switch, only by pushing brake pedal, interior lights flickering sometimes, etc. It turned out that mice had chewed the hell out of the wiring under the main fuse panel mounted in the engine bay, left front fender. I spent an entire weekend splicing and re-insulating to fix it all. It isn't real easy to get at the wires under the fuses, you have to pull the fuse panel section off of the rest of the big plastic box, but if you don't find anything else wrong, you might look under there. I now put mothballs in plastic holders under the hood to keep the mice out.

 

Oh, and neither my OBDII scanner nor the dealer's superdooper scanner showed any fault codes.

Edited by 06pirate
Posted

My truck in a 2006 GMC Sierra. A couple of years ago I had a bunch of unusual and seemingly unrelated electrical problems. Check engine light illuminated dimly, cruise control worked but would not shut off with switch, only by pushing brake pedal, interior lights flickering sometimes, etc. It turned out that mice had chewed the hell out of the wiring under the main fuse panel mounted in the engine bay, left front fender. I spent an entire weekend splicing and re-insulating to fix it all. It isn't real easy to get at the wires under the fuses, you have to pull the fuse panel section off of the rest of the big plastic box, but if you don't find anything else wrong, you might look under there. I now put mothballs in plastic holders under the hood to keep the mice out.

 

Oh, and neither my OBDII scanner nor the dealer's superdooper scanner showed any fault codes.

 

This is where I suspect the problem is (main fuse panel)...if it were in the dash circuitry - I don't think the radio would be involved and if it was the ignition switch..I don't see why some accessories but not others...the brake pedal correcting it 100% of the time has me perplexed....I will head under the fuse panel under the hood megufuse and all...it was sitting for a bit - so mice a possibility

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 2006 Silverado 1500 with the following problem

Intermittently - Dash gauges (voltage, oil pressure, etc) cut out and charging light, security warning light- light up. radio also cuts out ... I think electric door locks also don't work....once I depress the brake pedal all comes back until it happens again 10 sec to several minutes to hours later. Dash lights, headlights, tach, speedometer, heater fans all unaffected - engine never skips a beat...happens moving and idling...brake pedal always fixes it ... can happen a couple times per minutes or can go 5-10 minutes w/o it happening even hours... very frustrating -any suggestions? Ignition wiring? Could brake circuit be backfeeding power?

  • 6 years later...
Posted

Aluminum oxide is the demon.    Aluminum stud, aluminum nut & aluminum braided cable, engine body ground. removed from firewall cleaned put back no gremlin.  If the problem is at the block (hard to get at) just run a 14 - 16 gauge copper wire from stud to block, alternator bracket has a 8 mm bolt holding a wire clip (that was first thing I did), stopped in the middle of no where after gremlin attack dash gauges door locks headlights warning lights radio clock reset.  Went to start turning key nothing at all.  Key in the on position with a coat hanger touched body ground bolt and block the key in ignition alarm started dinging.  used a lamp cord that was in the bed stripped it rigged it up and no problems rest of 30 miles home.  once home pulled ground strap from firewall cleaned with wire brush reinstalled not a flicker from headlights when brakes are applied nothing demon/gremlin completely gone.

  • 11 months later...
Posted

I realize this is an old post but Solas, did you figure it out?

 

I have an 06 Z71 and its doing the exact same thing. Warning lights pop up on dash, all gauges drop to zero, radio turns off, windows/doors wont work, etc but truck still runs. If I have AC on , fan will continue blowing but compressor not sending cold air. If i turn the truck off and restart, its usually fine.

 

Fairly new Interstate battery, will check ground and connections but this is driving me crazy

  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 8/21/2021 at 9:14 AM, DeeboSC78 said:

I realize this is an old post but Solas, did you figure it out?

 

I have an 06 Z71 and its doing the exact same thing. Warning lights pop up on dash, all gauges drop to zero, radio turns off, windows/doors wont work, etc but truck still runs. If I have AC on , fan will continue blowing but compressor not sending cold air. If i turn the truck off and restart, its usually fine.

 

Fairly new Interstate battery, will check ground and connections but this is driving me crazy

Did you ever get this issue resolved? I cannot find out why my truck is doing this and shops are charging ridiculous amounts to go through my system.

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I’m currently having similar issues on my 2006 Chevrolet Silverado. 
 

My doors won’t power unlock or lock , windows won’t go up and down, radio doesn’t turn on, my four gauges are not working( battery, oil, pressure, temperature, gas) and interior lighting only turns on when I manually pushed the buttons. 
 

My battery light is on so I replaced the battery because it had gone out but didn’t fix the problem. 
 

My ABS light is on. 
 

No check engine light.

 

I checked my fuses and relays and they all look good. 

 

not sure the problem. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

2007 Chevy Silverado having trouble with the cluster, radio and climate control coming and going plus the blower motor runs with not key in truck

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...