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2002 Sierra 1500 5.3 dying and random no start


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Posted

When the truck is cold start it up it idles fine, put it in gear the rpms drop to almost dying, sometimes it will actually die pulling out of my driveway or if I go to stop at a stop sign a few blocks away. After a few blocks there's no problems. This does this mainly after sitting overnight not so much during the day unless it sits for quite a few hours.

 

The next thing it does which is very randomly, have yet to figure out its trigger. Its only happened once or twice first thing in the morning happens mainly during the day after its been driven. I will shut it off go into the store or anything could be 10 minutes or an hour doesn't matter but turn the key over and the lights come on doesn't crank at all. Turn the key back and forth a few times turns right over no problems.

 

Other than that the truck runs smooth, it doesn't run rough at all.

Posted

Without knowing where neutral safety switch is now days, have you tried holding the shifter up while trying to start it? Or move it to neutral to start it? When you get nothing on the turn of the key, no noise, no dimming lights, it usually means either the security feature is acting up, or truck thinks it is in gear.

 

No idea on your other issue, other than asking when you last changed the plugs and filters(especially fuel filter)?

Posted

Could be also a bad relay or ignition switch for the thing not starting. Possible loose battery connection, cant draw enough for the starter. Does it click when you turn the key? Also, the Neutral Safety Switch for a 60e is on the driver side of the transmission, right where the shift cable attaches to the shifter arm

 

I also agree on the fuel filter idea. My friends truck sounded weak (02 Tacoma) and then I replaced the fuel filter and dirt and grit drained out of the old one and after the new one, felt like you got 15 horsepower back! Lol

Posted

Fuel filter plugs wires all that was just recently changes. New battery cables that are nice and tight. Also thought the ignition switch to but changed that not the problem. I was getting a small evap code for awhile dont remember the number. Found that it was the line off the fuel pressure regulator. I've been told that it could be my fuel pump or the regulator. Which I'm getting a tester this week to check that.

Posted

Fuel filter plugs wires all that was just recently changes. New battery cables that are nice and tight. Also thought the ignition switch to but changed that not the problem. I was getting a small evap code for awhile dont remember the number. Found that it was the line off the fuel pressure regulator. I've been told that it could be my fuel pump or the regulator. Which I'm getting a tester this week to check that.

 

Ignition switch is not connected to neutral safety switch. A previous post says the switch is on the trans, left side, attached to the shifter cable where it connects to shift arm on trans. Try moving the shifter up higher when trying to crank, but engine is not cranking. Also try shifting to neutral. Do you by chance have remote start?

Generally a bad connection at battery will cause dome light to go out completely when you turn key to start, and then come back on after releasing the key. You likely meant this, but you didn't say it, battery cables are tight, but are they also clean? If there is any possibility of connection not being clean, remove at battery and clean inside cable connector, as well as the actual post on battery. Most auto parts stores carry tool for cleaning post and cables. Personally, I prefer the t-shaped cleaner with flutes on the part that cleans cable end, and has a spring metal strapped around the end of tool that goes over the post. The spring metal part goes about 90% around post, and has a sharpened end on the metal strap, and will remove crap from post by turning tool around. Not impressed with tools that have brushes to clean connections. Tool should be cheap. Just checked Princess Auto (located in Canada), they have 4-Way Battery Post and Terminal Cleaner for $4.99. SKU: 2990113

Posted

Its not the maf sensor.

 

They are brand new battery cables on a brand new battery. I have done all the obvious things this seems to be a deeper problem that no one can really be for sure what it is. Trying to find someone that had the same problem and fixed it before I start throwing even more money into it.

 

Someone else stated it could be the ignition switch which is why I stated it was a new switch.

Posted

Take it to the dealer and get it diagnosed before you just start going parts crazy like I do. Sometimes it saves you money sometimes it dont. I know my dealer will diagnose the problem and tell me what it is for an hour or two worth of labor and then I just pick it up and replace whatever is wrong most of the time

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

 

 

Posted

Take it to the dealer and get it diagnosed before you just start going parts crazy like I do. Sometimes it saves you money sometimes it dont. I know my dealer will diagnose the problem and tell me what it is for an hour or two worth of labor and then I just pick it up and replace whatever is wrong most of the time Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

thank you very much !!!!!!!!!!! ive said this since i think ,,,,,forever !!!!!!!!!!!!,,,,my god ,,,people just dont get it !!!!!!!!duhhhh

Posted

Get a fuel pressure reading. Key on engine off. See how long it takes to leak down also

Posted

The early morning cold engine problem is likely the intake gaskets. Once the engine warms up a little it seals off and runs fine. Could probably use a throttle body cleaning also.

If there's not a security light on when it wont start, then you may have a starter or relay issue.I would pay particular attention to the driver info center and see if that security light ain't flashing.

Posted

I don't live close to a dealer or I would which is why I'm trying to find someone with the same problem. Have also tried local shops with nothing.

 

While the logic sounds good, it actually isn't. I have written a reply to this 8 times now, and deleted everyone of them because it makes me sound too mean. Stupid part is, in person there would be no problem with the wording.

 

I am not using the word "you" in the first person, I am using it in the second person. I am not talking about you specifically.

 

The first problem is people do not talk the way they write. And, you don't read the way you talk. Trying to read something that is done completely in local vernacular (that alone proves my point, I would never say that word out loud). Much like trying to read txt messages. You know I still put apostrophes on the words in the right place when I text.(or I simply don't use contractions). My point is, in person you can describe something, and the person looking at you will likely get what you are saying the first time round, and will likely reply in a way that you could not even write down and be able to read it two days later, but you will both understand each other completely.

 

By the time you get to a forum to ask for help, you have done too many things that didn't fix it, and you may have actually added a problem in to the system. I am not saying don't go to a forum for advice(that you need to remember, you have zero idea who you are dealing with, you don't even know if they are still on the short bus, and puberty hits next year). It does not take a genius to be a member on a forum, who will talk and act like a master mechanic. A couple years later it turns out the guy was 12 and was really good at composing search strings on the internet.

 

Take the advice with a grain of salt, and do not base your repairs on what someone on a forum swore was the correct diagnosis.

 

As I said in the beginning, I am not talking in the first person, so you do not need to defend yourself (actually, I guess I am talking in the first person now).

 

You have a strange issue with your truck. The two items may even be related. I doubt anyone can say with certainty they are two unique items and cannot be connected in any way. We do not have sufficient information. After many years as a mechanic, the one thing I can for certain, the biggest crooks in the auto repair business is the customer. Crook is too strong a word, make it "most dishonest" instead.

Posted

This is ridiculous, I started this to get some opi ions from people with hopefully similar issues. Not for you to diagnose my problem over the internet. Please stop commenting if you don't have something to help me. I don't need life lessons from you. Obviously I don't need you to comment anymore. You gave your whirl at it and I thank you for trying but enough please stop following this thread. There was no reason for your previous post as it has no relation what so ever, if I wanted drama I would have posted this on Facebook instead.

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