Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Is there any better solution to filling those 8 big, odd shaped holes under the bed rail? My 08 had them and I thought GM had lost their minds. These holes are a manufacturing shortcut, in my opinion. I run toppers on all my trucks. These holes suck in dirt and moisture. You'd think GM would come up with a better design that eliminated this.

 

I had the foam blocks in my last truck. It works to some degree.

 

Is there a better solution?

Posted

I installed the bed seal kit that includes gasket material for the front of the bed and tailgate as well as the foam blocks. Really sealed it up for me. In addition to the dust coming in around the stake holes, I also had water leaking in around the tailgate. Nothing now. If interested, I can look up the Amazon link for you. I couldn't find anything better.

Posted

I have the foam blocks and they work fine. I thought about just getting matching color duct tape or maybe even foil tape since that stuff will stick to anything. I don't think either of those choices would look any worse than the foam blocks hanging out.

 

Mike

Posted

Are you refering to the slots on the inside of the bed? My 2011 had plastic plugs in those holes. Maybe if they are the same size you could get them. I was going to look at my new truck when it comes in and see if they will work. If not I was going to look at the wing nut type plugs you can get for electrical enclosures, and paint them to match. Should be waterproof, only drawback might be the wingnut on the inside.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

There are a lot of places that dust gets into the bed and it is very noticable when a bed cover is installed.

 

First, there is a gap in the bed wall at the front (opposite the tailgate)where the section behind the cab meets the floor. The kit I am referring to provided a gasket that seals this gap from top near the bed rail to bottom, across the width and up the other side to the bed rail.

 

Next, there are foam blocks that plug the gaps on both sides where the stake rails meet the bed under the bed rails along the front and back and above the wheel well humps in the middle. If you take a flashlight and look under the rails, you can see these gaps easily.

 

Moving on to the tailgate, the kit provided gasket material to run from under the bed rail on one side down along the bed between the tailgate and bed, ending at the bed rail on the other side. They also include other gasket material to seal the ends of the tailgate near the top. This gasket also seals out water intrusion from around the tailgate.

 

Finally, they include clear stickers to put on the round holes on the bed sides, if your bed doesn't already have covers on them. Mine had covers on all other holes except the drain holes at the front of the bed which I did not cover.

 

I have no pics because I installed a Bedrug after sealing the bed, but here is a link to the kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B6IF6S/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I hope this helps.

Edited by chuckl1218
Posted

There are a lot of places that dust gets into the bed and it is very noticable when a bed cover is installed.

 

First, there is a gap in the bed wall at the front (opposite the tailgate)where the section behind the cab meets the floor. The kit I am referring to provided a gasket that seals this gap from top near the bed rail to bottom, across the width and up the other side to the bed rail.

 

Next, there are foam blocks that plug the gaps on both sides where the stake rails meet the bed under the bed rails along the front and back and above the wheel well humps in the middle. If you take a flashlight and look under the rails, you can see these gaps easily.

 

Moving on to the tailgate, the kit provided gasket material to run from under the bed rail on one side down along the bed between the tailgate and bed, ending at the bed rail on the other side. They also include other gasket material to seal the ends of the tailgate near the top. This gasket also seals out water intrusion from around the tailgate.

 

Finally, they include clear stickers to put on the round holes on the bed sides, if your bed doesn't already have covers on them. Mine had covers on all other holes except the drain holes at the front of the bed which I did not cover.

 

I have no pics because I installed a Bedrug after sealing the bed, but here is a link to the kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B6IF6S/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I hope this helps.

I read a few of the reviews for that product on amazon and some claimed to have trouble with the adhesive not sticking. Did you have any issues with the adhesive during installation or after?

Posted

so far, no issues. I did prep every spot where the gasket attaches with alcohol and had to wait until the right ambient temp so that it would stick.

  • 5 months later...
  • 7 years later...
Posted
On 4/19/2014 at 11:05 AM, Spurshot said:

Is there any better solution to filling those 8 big, odd shaped holes under the bed rail? My 08 had them and I thought GM had lost their minds. These holes are a manufacturing shortcut, in my opinion. I run toppers on all my trucks. These holes suck in dirt and moisture. You'd think GM would come up with a better design that eliminated this.

 

I had the foam blocks in my last truck. It works to some degree.

 

Is there a better solution?

Let me know if you find a better solution. I am getting ready for next weekend at which time I will apply a sheet of plastic 4 mil and a piece of cardboard after it to the space between the bed and cab. I will then support it with some towels stuffed between the cardboard and the cab to hold it in place then spray foam the area from inside. Will have to shoot the foam in through a couple holes still in the spray in bed liner but should give me plenty of space to spray. After sitting over night I will remove these and hope for the best. Will get color match paint at auto store to paint the foam between the bed and cab for whatever shows. Tghe plastic and cardboard should greatly limit the area it travels to but one dry it can be shaved off before painting. A 1200.00 bed cover and still my tools in truck bed get drinched due to these holes. One at the corner on both sides of the bed. Rediculous.

 

  • Haha 1
Posted

Well, more than 8 years and 95,000 miles later, i still only have those foam blocks in there.  It's been dustier than I would like, but seems to keep most of the junk out.  

 

But, I did just think of another route.  I have some soft aluminum sheet with adhesive back.  Its pretty thick, maybe 10 mils if I recall correctly.  

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,329 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...