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2000 454 swap


easemaster3000

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Posted

I have a 2000 2500 silverado that originally was equipped with a 6.0, 4l80e, and NP2somethin

 

None of those drivetrain components are currently in the vehicle, the truck is basically gutted.

 

I am building a off-road, street worthy rig out of it. My plans are:

 

Chromo 10 bolt front end (gotta pretty good package deal on it)

14 bolt rear,

one ton 1350 or 1410 shafts

Disc brakes

 

Here's were I think my builds a little different... I don't want to install another LS motor; rather, I'd like to drop a carbureted big block, turbo 400, and np 205 into it simply for lack of electronics, and low end torque a stockish big block has to offer. I know that setup is less efficient, but its simple, robust, and generally less costly.

 

So currently my questions are:

 

Will the bcm still work to control the lights windows air etc with out the pcm, or am I asking for a wiring nightmare?

 

Also do you know of any conversions mounts to stuff a 454 into the newer models?

Posted

Putting a 454 in that truck will be way more work than it's worth... You can find another 6.0 well under $2000. It's already set up to take one.

 

I don't understand how a carbed engine is robust in any way. For off road especially. There isn't a thing a computerized motor won't do better. In steep off camber sections a carb will have trouble, fuel injected rig won't know the difference. Cold or hot, altitude, fuel, the motor will know the difference and adjust itself. Any serious off roader uses a fuel injected setup these days. Don't let a "controlled fuel leak" hold you back.

Posted

I have no idea if the BCM depends on the PCM or not. This reply is to simply offer my opinion on use of carb in non-stock vehicles. Recently there has been a large number of car shows on showing off EFI systems on older non-efi engines. The big company kits come completely self contained, and are starting to show up with the ability to learn driving styles and habits. Pretty slick. Saw one setup that uses a throttle body that you would swear is a carb when the air cleaner is mounted. With the stuff they have now, no way I would bother trying to tune a carb.

Why not use the 8.1?

Posted

An Edelbrock carb & intake manifold, gaskets, & studs together are still cheaper than any aftermarket FI setup that I've seen by quite a large margin. Used can be found cheaper by an even larger margin. Tuning can be tedious, but once your done, it's set for good. Nothing like a well-tuned carb for intant throttle response and instant starts. Best part is repairs with a screwdriver - if you need any.

 

Only way I'd do EFI is if I could buy an entire setup, brand new, for $500 or less. I don't see that happening anytime soon. All the ones I've seen were well into the 4-digit price range.

Posted

OPs truck is already set up to run with a fuel injected motor. It will be easy as pie to drop in a 6.0 and go. And for offroading it's the obvious choice since as long as the fuel pump has fuel, it will run. There is a good reason there are kits to swap LS based motors into just about anything, and since one came in the OPs truck it's a no brainer.

Posted

An Edelbrock carb & intake manifold, gaskets, & studs together are still cheaper than any aftermarket FI setup that I've seen by quite a large margin. Used can be found cheaper by an even larger margin. Tuning can be tedious, but once your done, it's set for good. Nothing like a well-tuned carb for intant throttle response and instant starts. Best part is repairs with a screwdriver - if you need any.

 

Only way I'd do EFI is if I could buy an entire setup, brand new, for $500 or less. I don't see that happening anytime soon. All the ones I've seen were well into the 4-digit price range.

Instant starts with a carb? sir, I laugh at that

Posted

You obviously have never driven a car with a well tuned carburetor. My carbed S10 Blazer with a '00 Jimmy 4.3 starts faster than my '07 Silverado EVERY TIME. My '72 El Camino started just as fast.

 

Just a flick of the key, and it's running. Try that with any computer operated vehicle. Haven't seen one yet that will even come close.

 

Only time it gets annoying is trying to bump the engine to TDC with the key - it'll start every time!

Posted

Even a well tuned carb will run like crap at a big angle, if it runs at all.

 

Carbs don't really like really cold weather or hot weather much either. My EFI 1990 started right up after sitting for a year, after being overheated, scored, and the head gasket blown out. On rotten E10. Like to see a carb handle that, lol.

Posted

You obviously have never driven a car with a well tuned carburetor. My carbed S10 Blazer with a '00 Jimmy 4.3 starts faster than my '07 Silverado EVERY TIME. My '72 El Camino started just as fast.

 

Just a flick of the key, and it's running. Try that with any computer operated vehicle. Haven't seen one yet that will even come close.

 

Only time it gets annoying is trying to bump the engine to TDC with the key - it'll start every time!

 

I don't think the issue of slow (can't really call couple of seconds slow though) start is due to fuel injection, it is more due to distributor less ignition system that has to basically re-configure itself(more accurately called re-timing).

How do your carbs work out when it is 30 below? Or what is drivability like on below 0 days? GM engines that have the aftermarket 14 inch round air cleaner in place of the factory air cleaner that had the heat stove on the manifold with the 2 inch diameter hose up to air cleaner housing. Thermac comes to mind for the name of that system. Without it, on a cold day, and a cold engine, stepping on the gas will cause your head to bounce off the steering wheel as the engine just flat out dies or hesitates. For some reason, EFI does not have that issue. And no heated air to ait cleaner either. Note that flipping the lid over on the GM 4 bbl engine would also have that severe hesitation on accel. Some engine designs also required a heat riser valve to direct exhaust gases across the bottom of the intake from one head to the other.

 

This is beyond the scope of the original topic, just couldn't help not replying to it. Tuning carbs is an art form. The only ones I was any good at were the Carter AFB/AVS, BBD, Thermoquads, and Rochester Quadrajet. I would give a holley carb away and buy the guy a Carter AFB to use instead. $20 would get you a complete jetting kit with rods. Still have a few of those kits around. And Carters never leaked.

 

Summit has the Edelbrock Pro-flo setup for small block chevy at $837, BBC kit is $936. Here is the blurb about it...

 

"Get a complete induction module of matched components for your competition EFI in one package with Pro-Flo XT Plus EFI induction kits. These comprehensive kits include a high-quality Victor series EFI manifold, a fuel rail kit, and a black powdercoated throttle body. Victor series manifolds incorporate Edelbrock's extensive knowledge in induction technology, providing maximum horsepower and torque for all forms of racing. Plus, they have extra material for port matching to maximize your performance. These EFI induction kits add CNC-machined aluminum fuel rails and a competition 1,000 cfm throttle body. Add Edelbrock Pro-Flo XT Plus EFI induction kits to your engine and you're on your way to the next generation of power."

Posted

Forgot to mention, intake and carb kit from summit for BBC starts at about $600, and goes up from there. Cost difference becomes negligible at that point. Looks like they are shipping rebadged Carter AVS series. Not sure if Edelbrock is continuing the Competition Series of carbs. They behave better when using more than one on the engine.

Posted

Wife drove the Blazer all winter long. Several starts at -10°F - just have to leave the choke on a bit longer, but never had an issue starting. We don't normally see anything colder than that around here.

 

I paid $600 for carb/intake for the 4.3 - intakes for SBC are much cheaper, so could get the package to your door probably less than $600.

 

I've had great luck with Edelbrock carbs over the years. One in my El Camino I thought for sure I'd have to disassemble and clean after it sat 4 straight years. Fired right up! I couldn't believe it.

 

The Blazer sat all through the winter of '12, because I had rebuilt a grenaded engine in a '00 Ford Focus, so the wife drove that instead to recoup some of the money I dumped into it. That also fired up after 18 months parked, and after a few minutes of running, was fine. We have the WORST gasoline on the planet here in MA ... because the idiots around Boston elect communists to office ... but that's a whole other thread for another day!

 

So far 30k miles on that engine swap, and not one carb related issue whatsoever. Had to install a heat insulator when I first did the engine swap - after that, no problems whatsoever from -10°F to 90°F.

 

Now, the chinese HEI I got off eBay is another story ... I'd have seriously been better off with points! When you get an entire distributor assembly shipped to your door for $58, you have to expect that. Got about 10k out of the first one, & 7k miles out of the last one. Just gutted it a few weeks ago and installed all Echlin components inside.

 

Just a matter of preference, I guess. Only carburetor that ever gave me trouble was a Quadrajet in Phoenix - after a heat soak in the summer, it would flood - every time. I'd have to hold it to the floor and crank a few seconds before it would fire and blow black smoke out everywhere. :lol: I'll take that any day over being stranded because of a stupid ignition switch.

 

Just an EDIT to note .. the Blazer has a 1404, and my El Camino had a 1405 -nothing fancy. Just regular Performers. Blazer gets 16-17 mpg around town.

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